That one lasted at my folks house for like 4 years before the roof ripped. If you want it to last longer buy one of the silver tarp and put it over the top and replace that when it gets shitty to keep the UV off the main tarp. Also the zipper on the door broke in the first 6 months but a bunge held it closed fine.

 

A local place has one of these for $160. I'll probably pick it up. Hopefully it will be big enough.
https://www.shelterlogic.com/shop/shed-in-a-boxr

Menards has the tan version on closeout for $120. Can't say no to that.
It has a thicker tarp than the 10x20ft car port thing, so it should withstand snow a little better.
https://www.menards.com/main/buildin...6865359997.htm

 

with all due respect, you aren't going to expand into a 150 dollar hr tent either..

on another note, I picked up this thing last week. Bare bones J2 head, weighs are tight, spindle bearings just replaced. 2500.. a little much, but with less than .040" backlash on the drives, I was ok with it.

 

 

What a beauty.

Just outfitted one at the shop with an ebay DRO and am pretty happy with it.

 

I bought a $99 Amazon tent to park my truck under. Seems slightly better built than the hf one. 10x20 not 10x17.

I strapped it to the fence to keep it stable.

 

MKTurbo paint jobs. I am going to start competing with Maaco. Need $150 HR tent garage as portable paint booths.

J/K HF garage is more for taking to events and such.

Looks sexy I am going to shoot you a pm with a few questions.

 

Ran the Bridgeport with the eBay DRO at work today.

 

So about these ebay dro...I see the 3 axis, magnetic for like 300 bucks now. Wondering if a magnetic measuring device can be worse than another. Not interested in glass tube models. I have only used Mituyoto in the past but kind of out of my price range.

 

They make cheap glass scale dros? Glass scales seem a little excessive for an old Bridgeport. If the magnetic dros are anything like the cheap calipers they'll be acceptable for a Bridgeport, but less than perfect

 

Yeah, this is a glass slide model. Still cheap, but kinda fragile. I can't see why the magnetic one's won't work .

 

x2 on this. used a pickle fork aka boot destroyer a few days back and no success. Picked one of these up and popped the upper ball joint out in 5 minutes with no fuss.

 

I've busted two of these, one my own stupid fault. I now have a third, bought from a 'good' tool shop, brand-name to boot. It has seen some serious work, been treated with a bit more respect, and worked just fine. My technique is to use lots of penetrating lube, a couple of hammers, and if that doesn't work, leave it overnight - nine times out of ten (allright, 'mostly') it is out in the morning, if not a bit more tightening, and another couple of whacks with the hammers and it is done.

 

Even the one on the Snap-On truck is something like $36. Thought it was Lisle, but looks like they don't make one. Not something I'd recommend cheaping out on. It's possible to take a hammer and vibrate the hub/control arm enough to pop them out. Usually take only 1-2 really strong hits. Never been very accurate with a swinging sledge myself, so I prefer this tool. Although I don't like the "jack-in-the-box" feeling, so I usually tighten the separator fairly tight, then tap it with a hammer. 90% of the time that's enough to break it loose.

Here's my unsolicited list of ball joint types, cause they're far from all the same:

1. Ball type: I see these on newer (e90+) 3-series, they're in the shape of a ball, very well made, and require zero tools past loosening the nut to remove.
2. Japanese/older BMW taper: very well made and snug fit, require either hitting with a hammer or using a separator tool. Cannot hit with a hammer if it's in an aluminum hub/arm, or you'll damage it.
3. POS domestic balljoint "tapers": These are really poorly made, both the ball joint and the mating piece, and usually held in with rust. Pickle fork was invented for this type.

Do not use a pickle fork for 1 or 2. This is a caveman's tool.

 

I hate that tool, but it works so well. Just you start cranking away on it and you know you've got like over 2 tons of preload in it from the bolt (not much torque to do that, like under 40ftlbs), and its terrifying. You put on the mig gloves, drape towels over it, put on the face mask and try and hide behind something as you keep turning on it and tapping the spindle with the hammer.

 

Put preload on it, then hit the arm with a hammer. The vibration pops the taper out.

 

 

I'm always worrying about it breaking. When you get up to that much stored energy in steel, when **** breaks it sends sparks if you're lucky or makes your appendage in the way literally explode.

 

This isn't harbor freight but any of you guys have experience on these hydraulic hose crimper?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Heavy-Duty-...dQO:rk:10:pf:0

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-71500-H...S!-1:rk:1:pf:0

 

I have this gear wrench model which has served me well: