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Old 05-29-2012, 04:56 AM   #1
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Default Help me fix my subaru suspension

OK I was doin my suspension with soviet tonight.

We did 3 corners no problem.

Fourth corner fail.

In short, we can not bolt in the upper bottom bolt on the shock body because the knuckle / brake disc thing won't go past the angle in the pic below. We tried jacking it, prying it etc but it wont budge.

Do you think the axle has popped out?

And if so, how do you pop it back in?

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Old 05-29-2012, 05:20 AM   #2
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Cut it off.
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Old 05-29-2012, 06:54 AM   #3
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It's probably splined.
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:04 AM   #4
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the axles are different on left vs right sides. right side was cake, left side - impossible. i'm guessing one axle is slightly longer or something.

that car is the destroyer of tools. I cracked a 19mm socket (literally, has a 2cm crack in it now) and then we broke a 3/8" ratchet each.

I thought McPherson struts were easy??
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Old 05-29-2012, 07:17 AM   #5
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Turn the axle by hand so the splines align and pop back in again?

Also have you tried cutting the top of the wheel wel?
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:05 AM   #6
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Standard Fae answer: CUT THAT MOTHERF*** OFF!!!


Real answer: yes, you homos most likely popped out an axle. You can either spin it and pullout/pushin til you gear it "pop" into place, or take off the boot and actually slide it into place.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:11 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by soviet View Post
the axles are different on left vs right sides. right side was cake, left side - impossible. i'm guessing one axle is slightly longer or something.

that car is the destroyer of tools. I cracked a 19mm socket (literally, has a 2cm crack in it now) and then we broke a 3/8" ratchet each.

I thought McPherson struts were easy??
Struts are a bitch 100% of the time. Why not just remove the arm, bolt the shock in, thread the springs all the way down, and reattach the arm by compressing the damper with a jack until the arm can be lined up with the sub-frame. I run into the same problem at work all the time. Everyone else is all "lets circle-jerk around it with a prybar for 5 hours"; whereas I pull the fuucking arm off and slide that ---- in. Problem solved.


Oh, and buy some better tools children. Craftsman is not the same as Snap-on.



EDIT: For reattaching the axle, assuming it came out, just get the boot out of the way and actually watch the piece slide in. Much easier, IMO, than hoping it finds its' way into the right spot. Please for the love of god do not start cutting wheel wells.
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Old 05-29-2012, 09:47 AM   #8
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How about you stopping ------- with your subaru and post ------- pictures and videos of your running Miata?
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:00 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2ndGearRubber View Post
Struts are a bitch 100% of the time. Why not just remove the arm, bolt the shock in, thread the springs all the way down, and reattach the arm by compressing the damper with a jack until the arm can be lined up with the sub-frame. I run into the same problem at work all the time. Everyone else is all "lets circle-jerk around it with a prybar for 5 hours"; whereas I pull the fuucking arm off and slide that ---- in. Problem solved.


Oh, and buy some better tools children. Craftsman is not the same as Snap-on.



EDIT: For reattaching the axle, assuming it came out, just get the boot out of the way and actually watch the piece slide in. Much easier, IMO, than hoping it finds its' way into the right spot. Please for the love of god do not start cutting wheel wells.
I don't understand this unbolting arm thing. Wouldn't I also have to unbolt the ball joint?

Also, I am upgrading to harbor freight.

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Old 05-29-2012, 12:23 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
How about you stopping ------- with your subaru and post ------- pictures and videos of your running Miata?
lol
on sunday I was supposed to come over to Fae's house with his tranny jack and install his new trans. however, my car decided it would be a cool idea to run on 2 cylinders instead so I ripped out half the wiring harness.

so he decide to come by on monday (for the jack) and do the subaru suspension because "it would only take 2 hours".
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:32 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soviet View Post
lol
on sunday I was supposed to come over to Fae's house with his tranny jack and install his new trans. however, my car decided it would be a cool idea to run on 2 cylinders instead so I ripped out half the wiring harness.

so he decide to come by on monday (for the jack) and do the subaru suspension because "it would only take 2 hours".
Don't care about the excuses. He said Sunday, then said he would be posting pics soon. They have yet to happen and he is posting in other places. The ban hammer is about to be brought down on him.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:43 PM   #12
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fixed

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Old 05-29-2012, 12:46 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by shuiend View Post
Don't care about the excuses. He said Sunday, then said he would be posting pics soon. They have yet to happen and he is posting in other places. The ban hammer is about to be brought down on him.
Well I haven't been banned yet in 2012 but we are not halfway through the year yet


also rick thank you for fixing my car with the kitten
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:47 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
I don't understand this unbolting arm thing. Wouldn't I also have to unbolt the ball joint?

No, you would not need to disconnect the ball-joint. The articulation of the tie rod would allow for movement. Your main issue is; limited movement of the lower suspension arm, which prevents the knuckle from lining up with the lower shock mounting point. As 18psi suggested, your axle may have moved out of place. If it were my car, I would, remove lower control arm (via the 2 bolts which hold the arm on), re-align the axle, line up the knuckle with the lower shock mounting holes, and attach the bolts. At this point, lower the spring perch to allow the spring to drop. Slide the axle into the housing of the hub, and try to re-align the lower control arm. If you need more room to move the arm, use a jack to compress the damper, by applying force through the arm. With a little wiggling, it will fit.


This may not be the simplest, lowest-effort method; but it's slow, methodical, and the way I prefer to do things. Sometime doing more work actually makes the job easier. Don't forget to get it aligned afterwards.


FWIW: Pittsburgh are actually decent tools, the weak point is the ratchet gears. Over time they have trouble catching. The teeth don't fail, but it forces you to have a shorter; less efficient swing.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:51 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faeflora View Post
Well I haven't been banned yet in 2012 but we are not halfway through the year yet
lol. funny, someone just asked me to ban you

but nah..

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also rick thank you for fixing my car with the kitten
also fixed its camber. looks good to me now.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:00 PM   #16
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Quote:
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Well I haven't been banned yet in 2012 but we are not halfway through the year yet


also rick thank you for fixing my car with the kitten


I delivered on my promises, unlike some other people.
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Old 05-30-2012, 01:53 AM   #17
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Nice choice with the suspension. I'm running a FEAL rebuilt '04 STi setup on my FXT and couldn't be happier with it.
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Old 06-01-2012, 02:49 AM   #18
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Figured I'd reply to this thread since fae is still b& until his car runs

He came over to my house. Wiggled the knuckle while twisting the axle and the CV joint popped back in. Took all of 5 minutes.

The Forester hauls ***. Not a 300whp hauls *** but still a ton of fun. He drives it hard, too.


edit: MT advice was best. NASIOC wasn't helpful at all. Just goes to show how boss this forum is.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:21 AM   #19
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You're welcome
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Old 06-01-2012, 01:06 PM   #20
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You're welcome
Thanks, I can get my miata out of the garage now
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