How (and why) to Ramble on your goat sideways
--Ian
All hard drives are NOT the same. the 3tb seagates have a lot more reports of failing and getting replaced under warranty.
3TB Seagate Hard Drives Have 43% Failure Rate, According to Backblaze - eTeknix
http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/222267-seagate-faces-lawsuit-over-3tb-hard-drive-failure-rates
That said i'd go with the WD blue.
Last edited by triple88a; 07-05-2016 at 12:52 AM.
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All hard drives are NOT the same. the 3tb seagates have a lot more reports of failing and getting replaced under warranty.
[url=http://www.eteknix.com/3tb-seagate-hard-drives-43-failure-rate-constant-use/]3TB Seagate Hard Drives Have 43% Failure Rate, According to Backblaze - eTeknix
[url=http://www.eteknix.com/3tb-seagate-hard-drives-43-failure-rate-constant-use/]3TB Seagate Hard Drives Have 43% Failure Rate, According to Backblaze - eTeknix
It was intended as kind of satire on hard drives in general, but if we're giving serious recommendations for a hard drive intended for use as a backup, buy a WD Green.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 07-05-2016 at 09:35 AM.
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God I love our FB page:
Someone was asking if he had to plumb his idle valve into intake pipe.
Junkyards: quality, accordingly priced parts.
Someone was asking if he had to plumb his idle valve into intake pipe.
Patrick Davis ODonnell For the NA the valve is either open or closed which is for the air conditioning and there is a set screw on the top for adjusting the idle.
Mats Engelsen Thanks. Do you know what opens and closes it? Inlet vacuum? Throttle position?
Patrick Davis ODonnell When the AC compressor switches on.
Braineack ALERT: ***Completely false misinformation here***
Mats Engelsen The idle valve is PWM driven. It's a rotary solenoid that rotates to allow more/less air to bypass the TB plate. It is NOT simply open/close. and it doesn't just operate when the A/C is activated--the ECU increases the PWM% to open the valve up further to compensate for the extra load caused by the A/C. It will also do the same if you have power steering.
Mats Engelsen Thanks. Do you know what opens and closes it? Inlet vacuum? Throttle position?
Patrick Davis ODonnell When the AC compressor switches on.
Braineack ALERT: ***Completely false misinformation here***
Mats Engelsen The idle valve is PWM driven. It's a rotary solenoid that rotates to allow more/less air to bypass the TB plate. It is NOT simply open/close. and it doesn't just operate when the A/C is activated--the ECU increases the PWM% to open the valve up further to compensate for the extra load caused by the A/C. It will also do the same if you have power steering.
Stephen Landon I don't think it's all NA's. I worked on an NA the other day that had a PWM idle valve.
Patrick Davis ODonnell Might be just the 1.6s. Not sure. Those valves have weak solder joints internally and are failure prone. A new one is about $400 too
Braineack 1. no they don't/aren't. 2. why in the world would you buy a brand new one?
Patrick Davis ODonnell Uhm yes they are failure prone and even junkyard valves were in the $300 range. I know this because mine was broken and I looked all over for ways to fix it
Braineack So because yours happened to fail they are failure prone? And because you have a shitty source for replacements, they are $$$? And because you have no idea how they actually operate they are Open/Closed?
Patrick Davis ODonnell Show me one that's cheaper. Some time Google searching fixes/replacements would show you that many people have problems with them failing for the same reason. I'm sure your "quality" part supplier wouldn't have a problem giving you a discount on a broken valve, but any miata junkyard that has one of these that works knows what they have and sets the price accordingly. These valves are so non-failure prone that someone did a writeup on how to fix this non-occuring problemhttp://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html.
I'll give you the fact that I had a misconception on how the part worked, but trolling their comments is unnecessary and a little childish.
Patrick Davis ODonnell Might be just the 1.6s. Not sure. Those valves have weak solder joints internally and are failure prone. A new one is about $400 too
Braineack 1. no they don't/aren't. 2. why in the world would you buy a brand new one?
Patrick Davis ODonnell Uhm yes they are failure prone and even junkyard valves were in the $300 range. I know this because mine was broken and I looked all over for ways to fix it
Braineack So because yours happened to fail they are failure prone? And because you have a shitty source for replacements, they are $$$? And because you have no idea how they actually operate they are Open/Closed?
Patrick Davis ODonnell Show me one that's cheaper. Some time Google searching fixes/replacements would show you that many people have problems with them failing for the same reason. I'm sure your "quality" part supplier wouldn't have a problem giving you a discount on a broken valve, but any miata junkyard that has one of these that works knows what they have and sets the price accordingly. These valves are so non-failure prone that someone did a writeup on how to fix this non-occuring problemhttp://www.miata.net/garage/isc.html.
I'll give you the fact that I had a misconception on how the part worked, but trolling their comments is unnecessary and a little childish.
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I loved that he linked an article written in ~1994 to support his claim that 1.6L idle valves are failure prone; but also contradicted all the other bullshit he was spewing. He is no longer in the group fwiw.
Not sure if car computer combo is retarded, or my fuel pump is slowly dying...
This has happened twice... Once a while ago and just last week. I was driving home from work on the highway. The car immediately lost power, AFR shot up... But it was only for 3-4 seconds
Other than picking up a Delphi oem from rock auto... Anyone able to suggest a factory like reliable aftermarket pump that won't make my FPR unhappy? I'd rather be safe than sorry...
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Ignore anyone who recommends a Walbro, buy a Deatschwerks DW100 PN 9-101-0848 (because Miata specific install kit) and love life without the Walbro wailing away in your fuel tank. My Walbro190 was the most hateful thing on my car until I replaced it with a DW. Walbro is fine if BECAUSERACECAR but I couldn't stand listening to the thing on the street.
(I've also used the DW200 with the stock NB everything and it was fine, but I am a sample size of 1. YMMV)
(I've also used the DW200 with the stock NB everything and it was fine, but I am a sample size of 1. YMMV)
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I'm merely using that as an example to point out our tolerance levels for certain things.
To be fair, the car ran fine on the Wally190, but the noise was turrible. I could hear the tone of the pump change when I had the blinker on and it drove me bananas.
To be fair, the car ran fine on the Wally190, but the noise was turrible. I could hear the tone of the pump change when I had the blinker on and it drove me bananas.
Ignore anyone who recommends a Walbro, buy a Deatschwerks DW100 PN 9-101-0848 (because Miata specific install kit) and love life without the Walbro wailing away in your fuel tank. My Walbro190 was the most hateful thing on my car until I replaced it with a DW. Walbro is fine if BECAUSERACECAR but I couldn't stand listening to the thing on the street.
(I've also used the DW200 with the stock NB everything and it was fine, but I am a sample size of 1. YMMV)
(I've also used the DW200 with the stock NB everything and it was fine, but I am a sample size of 1. YMMV)
My biggest concern is the FPR and how it'll affect any of the toooning currently on the car.
I still need to relocate my IAT closer to the intercooler... This 100F weather makes my car run pig rich and idle at 2k rpms when it's cooking outside... Morning or night time, runs fine.
If he truly Googled idle valve pricing, he surely would have found the first 2 hits of my Google search, less than $100 from either Treasure Coast Miata or BTDT Racing.