Buy 4. The BEGi DP pipes are so close to the nuts that you can only fit the stage 8 eccentric on 3 of the 5 nuts anyway.

well you didnt say your studs where comming out some real loctite will pwn that the safety wire, will secure your nuts and is a good idea i just find the nord locks as reliable and a good bit more convenient. We use them on the pressess for millions of impressions and they hold up just fine.

Congrats on finally getting your ass out there.

Won't solve issues if you are fast.

Lol. Nord locks = fail.

More track time? Or more track time in a turbo miata? ;)

If you stop your studs from turning, they will end up coming straight out and just taking off the threads.

Lol @ loctite holding up to that kind of temperature. Nord locks will not solve turbo-manifold issues for seriously tracked cars.

@crashncar: so what will? I have copper coated nuts and the seem to have held up during the last track day, however that is the second set of studs and nuts that went in.

I do know that a resonating downpipe against the subframe @4krpm is a good recipe for it all to resonate loose.

:laugh:

:rofl:

Nordlocks? fucking Loctite? LOL. My Stage 8s came loose on the DP and the safety-wired turbo manifold came loose too. I think I'm actually pulling the studs through the threads of the manifold.

I honestly don't know whether it's possible to fix this issue without orienting the turbo differently.

Spot welding?

Just get an setup full o' V-bands and you'll be set.

Yeah, I destroyed the 8mm hardware on the manifold->turbo last year. I upgraded to 10mm hardware and have not had any problems since.

I do have to laugh, when I was replacing the manifold, a few people told me to use loctite on the new hardware...and then they were perplexed when I just laughed at them. I would ask "do you have any idea where these studs and nuts are? They are on a friggin turbo!"....they still didn't get why I was laughing at them.

Congrats Hustler... and yes, I do know all about throttle steering :D
I'm hoping to make it out to Road Atlanta next weekend... but it depends if I was scammed by a CR member or not.

just put hot-glue on it.

I have a flange leak on mine as well; it was leaking a tiny bit before the event but it is definitely worse now. I believe it is the 5-bolt turbine exit flange. The turbo is coming out anyway so I'll be looking at safety wire or some other locking device. V-bands would be the ultimate though hard to do with a IWG and a SGDP. It would be very nice though to get rid of the T25 flange and put a v-band there. ATP has turbine housings available like this, though they do not have a IWG 5-bolt exit flange.

Loctite, agreed, no way. Even the 640 and 668 come apart at 200C-250C, not nearly hot enough.

My turbo to manifold is leaking too. So, Stage8 doesnt work, nor does safety wire. Now what?!

FWIW I pulled out the turbo today. The self-clinching fasteners on the DP flange (5-bolt) were holding onto the stud tight; in fact, when I removed them, the whole stud came out, so the stud-to-turbo threads are the weak link.

The self-clinching fasteners on the T25 flange bolts all appear to be tight still.

The way the military does it, at least the Air Force, is the studs get mechanically staked into the holes once they are installed. No way they will ever come out again; it is permanent. Here is an example. The picture is tiny, but you can see the stakes that are driven in once the stud is screwed into place. Many moons ago I redesigned an Air Force gear box that used this style stud.
SPS Technologies - Products
Then the bolts that go on the studs are safety wired together in pairs.

I am not sure why stainless safety wire would not work? I am considering using safety wire drilled socket head cap screws in place of the stud/nut combo, and safety wiring the heads together. If the screw is closely matched to the flanges for CTE, it seems like it should all hold together. Socket heads could also make assembly easier.

Just like the nord washers (which I'm not sure why I suggested, since they're not working for me either) I'd be afraid the heat cycling on the safety wire would make it brittle and it would snap.

We need to find something that actually works for track cars besides all of us switching to v-bands. I'm tired of loosing power halfway through a trackday, then ripping everything apart and tightening it again and again.

I talked to jeremy from FM today about the stage8 bolts and he said to torque the stud in and use the stage8 and they'll hold so I'm going to order a set on tuesday. I'm also going to get their 8mm stuffs for the downpipe and hope for the best. I'll cut them if I must but I want this shit to hold together.

Any picture coverage?

I've heard of using grease at the turbo to manifold joint because it turns to carbon and fills the gaps...but i don't see how it wouldn't blow out. Maybe I can resurface the the flanges, let it idle for a while, then turn the heat up.

It leaked before until it warmed up...man this sucks. Now I know why VW makes the manifold and turbine housing one piece.

Welding the mani to turbo, or v-band. You must not be driving very hard if they are holding up.

+1 (I think, haven't actually tried it but how could this go wrong?)

WIN.

You aren't driving hard enough if 10mm hardware is holding up.

Good luck, but I wouldn't count on that as a permanent solution.

I am going to investigate in welding turbo and manifold together...

Did a bit of searching today, and Nissan is using lock plates or locking plates from the factory for their turbo's:
sr20det turbo mani locking plate?? - FreshAlloy.com Forums

True, and there are indeed loose over one track event.