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Old 03-07-2013, 02:42 AM   #21
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Don't kick yourself. People have issues with the one-piece plugs (may not be correct heat range). The newer Motorcrafts are redesigned and should come out OK, especially if anti-seize is used. Got my new Motorcrafts and the extraction tool on Amazon. I'm about to do the wife's '07 Expedition. Planning on using a 3/8" drive impact. Wish me luck!
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:28 AM   #22
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Im glad the new DOHC engines aren't like this.

I know Ive heard there is so trick to getting them out that works most of the time, but Im not sure exactly what it is. Ive heard the guys with the older S197s talking about it, but I dont really pay attention to the 4.6L tech. All I know is that I see more people talking about how relieved they are that all the plugs came out fine than I see people complaining about having one or more break off.

EDIT:
Apparently this doesnt happen if you replace the plugs every 50k miles, even though the service manaual says every 100k miles.
Also, they fixed this issue in 2007:


EDIT again:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixtlan View Post
Well very interesting experience. Got some things to pass on about our plugs.
After reading all the broken plug and removal issues as well as the TSB's from hell about it I decided to do a little Preventative Maintenance.
First of all it is a bitch to say the least.
Not difficult but one wrong move and you could be screwed.
First off the issue:
The plug has an extension the extends past the base of the plug into the cylinder chamber. The plug is also a multi piece design. The extension is one part, the actual plug base the the second part, and the remainder is the core and ceramic.
Carbon builds up between the plug extension and the hole it fits thru.
It is like a pencil in a straw.
This carbon freezes the extension to the head and makes it very difficult to unscrew the plug from the head.
If the carbon is bad it can break the extension off and leave it in the head.
Not Good.
Now the fix:
First you must remove the plug. This is where you can go wrong in a hurry.
They are tight and want to Squeal when removing (meaning they are seizing).
What you need to do is loosen that carbon gripping the plug.
Here is how.
1. Remove the coil.
2. Loosen the plug 1/4 to 1/2 turn only. It squeals like hell too.
3. Get yourself some Stoddard Solvent (P-D-680 to you Military types). It dissolves carbon like crazy. And it is cheap. I paid 7.50 a gallon from the local Oil Distributor (Kellerstraus for you locals); just bring something to take it in like a gas can.
4. Pour a little into the plug hole (about 3 Tablespoons), just enough to let it weep around the plug you loosened and down to the carbon.
5. Let it sit about 15 to 30 minutes.
6. Remove your plug. Comes out mucho easier.
7. Use a scotch bright pad to remove any carbon still on the plug.
8. Inspect your plugs for damage and looseness. Grab the ceramic and the extension and twist it slightly. If it is loose at all replace it. It be broken.
9. DO NOT Put anti-seize on the extension as Ford recommends. It only melts and runs down the electrode and causes missing. Clean the plug in your solvent.
10. Clean the plug wells of the solvent left over (Stick a rag in it and soak it up).
11. Install your plugs and torque to 25 ft/lbs.
12. Reinstall you coils and fire it up. You will get a bit of white smoke for a little as the solvent burns out of the cylinder.
13. Drive around the block.
If you feel a miss and throw a code then recheck the plug ya got the code for.

You be done.
BTW I broke one plug (Ceramic was loose in the plug). Didn't even know it was broke till I started up again. Threw code P0308 #8 Misfire.
They are $12 Bucks each at the local Checker if they have them.
HT-1 Autolights FYI.
Not Cheap!!

Oh and Champion has done a redesign to a one piece base and extension.
$20.00 ea. Ouch.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ixtlan View Post
Word of warning all.
Dont use the damn anti-seize.
It melts and runs down the plug to the electrode.
Then the damn car starts missing here and there.
What a pain this is gonna be till it all clears out.
And I used a real thin layer on it.
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Last edited by Full_Tilt_Boogie; 03-07-2013 at 03:43 AM.
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Old 03-07-2013, 03:43 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
I know Ive heard there is so trick to getting them out that works most of the time, but Im not sure exactly what it is.
Speaking from absolutely zero first-hand experience:

This thread got me to do some searching. Apparently the Ford forums agree that, after soaking them in penetrating oil for a month, hitting the plugs with an impact gun tends to have the effect that the carbon bond between the head and the plug nose be cleft in twain, that the plug be removed in one piece.
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Old 03-07-2013, 02:27 PM   #24
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Ford: Quality is job one.
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:44 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Perez View Post
Speaking from absolutely zero first-hand experience:

This thread got me to do some searching. Apparently the Ford forums agree that, after soaking them in penetrating oil for a month, hitting the plugs with an impact gun tends to have the effect that the carbon bond between the head and the plug nose be cleft in twain, that the plug be removed in one piece.
Are they suggesting squirting the spark plug holes and then driving around for a month, or letting it sit without driving it for a month?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Full_Tilt_Boogie View Post
Apparently this doesnt happen if you replace the plugs every 50k miles, even though the service manaual says every 100k miles.
Also, they fixed this issue in 2007:
Funny you should say that. A year and a half ago I replaced a coil and replaced one plug because I broke the plug pulling it out. When I replaced the plugs this week, the only one that did not break was the one I had replaced during that episode a year and a half ago.

My truck is an 08. Did you mean 09, or do you think they did not make the change on all models?
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Old 03-07-2013, 07:58 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by miata2fast View Post
Are they suggesting squirting the spark plug holes and then driving around for a month, or letting it sit without driving it for a month?
I believe that some embellishment was involved. An overnight soak is probably more in line with reality, though I question the effectiveness of this. (If penetrating oil is capable of working its way past the gasket and threads and contacting the carbon-fouled nose, then something is wrong.
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Old 03-07-2013, 08:11 PM   #27
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I get it.

I did try penetrating oil on a few holes, but I loosened the plug just a tad and let sit overnight thinking that maybe, just maybe the oil would get past the threads and magically lube it up enough for it to work. Nope.
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Old 03-07-2013, 09:46 PM   #28
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Now if these plugs were the only problem on the 5.4's...
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Old 03-07-2013, 10:28 PM   #29
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As much as I hate Ford, I had little problem with these and used to do them all the time

I run a cleaner through like seafoam, then soak them in pb blaster for a few hours or overnight, then take a breaker bar and hit it until they just start to break loose. then soak them again and let them sit for a while and they normally come out pretty easy.

I see why the impact works essentially Im trying to do the same thing with hand tools.

The ford house I use to work next to extracted them for free unless it was on the firewall then it was 50, so we had to get real good at them.

I think the cobras and older 5.4s shooting plugs out of the head is a much bigger problem.
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