I will now join the ranks of idiots who do not safety wire - Page 5 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 10-12-2009, 05:13 PM   #81
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I don't know that I can drill a hole big enough for .032 in the little 10mm head.

edit: Just called and switched to the .032. Thanks for the advice.


so safety wire experts, do you recommend lacing these or the standard twist? I think twisting pairs, on different flanges is the way to go because I creates fail safes on each flange which holds the chra to the housing.

I'm also going to do my fluid drain plugs too. This will help me sleep at night.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:17 PM   #82
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unfortunately mcmaster.com only sells down to 1/4-20 in stainless with drilled heads.

can you find your bolts with tall heads or use cap screws with longer heads?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:23 PM   #83
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Oil restrictor discussion:
I had BEGi make a .060, should I go smaller? I am worried that .040 is going to be too little oil for the turbo.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:23 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
unfortunately mcmaster.com only sells down to 1/4-20 in stainless with drilled heads.

can you find your bolts with tall heads or use cap screws with longer heads?
there is so little clearance that I'm going to run the funky metal bolts tial sends.
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:25 PM   #85
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I wonder what made the top side of the diaphram dirty? It was clean on the inside. I wonder if its sucking in oil vapor from my atmospheric cam vent?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:57 PM   #86
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.060? Is that even a restrictor? lol

I would have recommended .040", but if you're not blowing oil past the seals dont worry about it. If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

WTF is cam vent?
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Old 10-12-2009, 05:58 PM   #87
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valve cover/cam cover, same thing...lol.
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:01 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
I don't know that I can drill a hole big enough for .032 in the little 10mm head.

edit: Just called and switched to the .032. Thanks for the advice.


so safety wire experts, do you recommend lacing these or the standard twist? I think twisting pairs, on different flanges is the way to go because I creates fail safes on each flange which holds the chra to the housing.

I'm also going to do my fluid drain plugs too. This will help me sleep at night.
If by lacing, are you talking about how they cross the wire inside the bolt head like on figure 1-5? The only times I've seen it laced (ala 1-5) is when the middle section is open and even then I think it's only called for b/c you can do it like that with the middle section open.

Translation: it's probably overkill to lace it and it's a pain in the *** the get it just right.

A nice picture with diagrams of you are gonna safety wire would help for critiquing.

Chris
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:28 PM   #89
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should I do this:

or tie them in two's like this:
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:39 PM   #90
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Quote:
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My vote...
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Old 10-12-2009, 06:48 PM   #91
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#2.

Chris
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:22 PM   #92
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In aircraft maintenance we do it with the twists like the lower picture, definately seems like the stronger way.
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Old 10-12-2009, 11:34 PM   #93
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OK so you got a jig to do it yourself...great. Do you still want another set? Are you going to do Nicks too?

I was going to mention that uglyass oil drain block but I figured it works so leave it alone, but if it hurts clearance...it's ugly.

And holy shitznit that EWG is getting hot! It shouldn't be that orange (this was anodized black initially people).

I roll with this .035" ATP restrictor.
-4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor : atpturbo.com

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Old 10-12-2009, 11:34 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenday3437 View Post
In aircraft maintenance we do it with the twists like the lower picture, definately seems like the stronger way.
We do it like that building race cars too. I'd also mention that you can do the entire series not just two at a time using the #2 method.

See here for more diagrams... they only show up to three bolts but you can do as many as you want in a string, just be careful to always have the bolt being pulled in the tighten direction.

Safety wire, proper safety wire technique for using safety wire on ultralights, and ultralight aircraft.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:36 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TurboTim View Post
And holy shitznit that EWG is getting hot! It shouldn't be that orange (this was anodized black initially people).

I roll with this .035" ATP restrictor.
-4 size Oil inlet fitting for GT28/30/35R with built-in restrictor : atpturbo.com

So wtf do i do about the wastegate? Is this bad? lol, seriously, what should I do?

Its even lighter now, lol. The blow off and WG were the same color at one time, lol.

The oil restrictor is drama because BEGi does not use AN thread pitch, its something else. Are you sure that .035 is not too small for tracking?

Last edited by hustler; 10-13-2009 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:01 AM   #96
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I don't know what you should do about it. Lower your EGT's? Go with an LS1? See if it breaks?
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:39 AM   #97
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apparently this is normal, lol.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:44 AM   #98
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You want that restrictor, over oiling a bb turbo will kill it. It has much tighter clearances, and does not use oil flow to cool the center section as much as the water does. This is somewhat in converse to a journal turbo where it needs higher flow to maintain an oil film and oil is used to cool everything.
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:05 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neogenesis2004 View Post
You want that restrictor, over oiling a bb turbo will kill it. It has much tighter clearances, and does not use oil flow to cool the center section as much as the water does. This is somewhat in converse to a journal turbo where it needs higher flow to maintain an oil film and oil is used to cool everything.
Are you sure? I talked this over with both BEGI and ATP Turbo and they both think a restrictor was not needed on my GT2871 (ball bearing).
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Old 10-13-2009, 12:17 PM   #100
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It's your turbo, do what you want. I don't type **** just to exercise my fingers.
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