Buy the FM bars, they are just fine and dandy. It's a steel fucking bar, there isn't a lot of tech that goes into it. The RB bar is 15/16, the FM is 7/8.
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jeez, that .065" is really going to be noticeable. Better buy the FM bars.
how about you buy whatever's the cheapest. |
I've had a set of FM bars on a shelf for a year now. 1"f 5/8"r. Maybe one day I'll get to install them :dunno:
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I really liked the FM bars when I put them on, huge difference, and I like the adjustability.
Now that I'm trying life with less rear-sway (and 700 lb springs) I went back to the stock rear, and in fact, have a collection of several different stock bars, so I have a wide range covered. No complaints about the front bar though. Anyone running the expensive end links? It just seems like a lot of money, it's weird to think it'd make a difference |
Abe, i have a set of gearheads endlinks and really like them. taking the pre-load out of the front sway is very noticeable no more pass. side front locking way early.
how do you like the 700/500 set up? i really liked 500/350 with NA RB hollow bar stock rear bar. then went to 700/350 with same sways and it was fun on the track but i couldnt get the car to rotate even trail breaking it was hard to get rotation. now im running 600/425 HUGE NB hollow bar no rear bar i'm still getting used to it, might bring the rear spring rate up a little or put in the NA RB hollow bar again. |
Originally Posted by ldp82
(Post 185130)
Abe, i have a set of gearheads endlinks and really like them. taking the pre-load out of the front sway is very noticeable no more pass. side front locking way early.
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its about weight transfer when i'm awake/sober at work tomorrow i'll post more. If i can find them i have at least 2 RB endlinks i could send you to experiment with.
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Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 185059)
You can tell the difference between two different sway bars? The difference between the solid RB and the FM bars is 1/16th. The rear bars are all 5/8"
I would say exactly the opposite though. The higher the spring rate, the less need for a stiff sway bar. It all depends on the suspension setup or spring rates. I'd rather have the bigger, lighter hollow bar for all the stiffening I can get considering that its an old street car, which will never be too stiff. |
Originally Posted by AbeFM
(Post 185112)
Anyone running the expensive end links? It just seems like a lot of money, it's weird to think it'd make a difference
Put the money toward corner weighting before the links. Actually, I say corner weight before sway bars too. I lucked out with my RB bars, and the car handled perfectly on the soft rear setting. |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 185178)
I could tell a difference from an msm to RB bars.
It all depends on the suspension setup or spring rates. I'd rather have the bigger, lighter hollow bar for all the stiffening I can get considering that its an old street car, which will never be too stiff. |
Originally Posted by jayc72
(Post 185189)
Well no kidding the MSM bar isn't much stiffer than the stock 1.6 bar.
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Originally Posted by ldp82
(Post 185143)
its about weight transfer when i'm awake/sober at work tomorrow i'll post more. If i can find them i have at least 2 RB endlinks i could send you to experiment with.
My set up is fine, but I find Koni's "race" set up to still be under damped, unless I blew them without noticing... But the little rear sway and soft shocks and FCM bumb stops is SUCH a different car. It doens't feel ricey at all. It feels like a BMW. You never know the road is there, and it just sticks, no matter what. The only issue is there's body roll and the control is... slower, than it could be. Less twitchy, you have to plan before you get to the turn, but I'm convinced it sticks a lot better. No more side-slipping every time there's bumps in a turn. Basically, I doubled my spring rates and got rid of the AGX's and the car got a LOT softer. So do yourself a favor, get used, blown, cheap konis, rebuild them with stiff valves and it'll feel great and still cost less than stockers. |
My buddy picked up some RB front and rear sways, RB drop springs, and AGXs. I like the control of the car around the course but figured out I could pickup the FM bars and SPAX PSX coilovers for less..
FM sways and SPAX == $695 RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70 |
If you'r just looking for some cheapie AGX's with FM lowering springs on them, I have a set. They are from an NB, but I know they can go on an NA since I've seen them on there before. :--)
Certainly tightens things up, and it's HUGELY better than stock. The full, top to bottom, FM suspension set up at least works well together and is a blast to drive. |
Originally Posted by elesjuan
(Post 185221)
My buddy picked up some RB front and rear sways, RB drop springs, and AGXs. I like the control of the car around the course but figured out I could pickup the FM bars and SPAX PSX coilovers for less..
FM sways and SPAX == $695 RB F/R Sways, RB Springs, KYB, Boots/bumpstops == $884.70 |
weird. I changed my brake pads, they are much better.
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I have a set of shocks from fatcat with liner pistons. I LOVE them. I told Shaikh what I was doing with the car had him give me some guidelines and suggestions about what springs and sway bars to run then he built a set of shocks for my set up and (track car not street car) the car is stiff but settles quickly and feels poised best way to describe it is the car feels like its going slower then when on the konis.
Corner balancing will lessen the affects of preload although some one who knows what they are doing will take the preload out of the sway bar when corner balancing the car this assumes that you are in the drivers seat or at least your weight, if you normally drive the car hard with 2 people set the car up with the respective weight in the seats. What’s happening is if you are driving the car especially solo there is more weight on the left side of the car, hell I’m just under 10% of my cars weight. I found with a friend in the car the pass side lock up was a lot less of an issue. To remove the preload make the passengers side as short as possible (you may have to go back and lengthen it once or twice) then get a friend to help you out, what I do is sit in the car while its on its wheels crank the wheel to one side and my dad adjusts the endlink till it bolts in with out having to move the sway bar I will post more when I get home if I have internet or tomorrow I just got kicked out of work due to the major snowstorm heading our way |
Originally Posted by ldp82
(Post 185383)
I will post more when I get home if I have internet or tomorrow I just got kicked out of work due to the major snowstorm heading our way
I really think I need to take another look at my suspension. I lowered the front of the car just a bit, hoping to stiffen it up, thereby making the back a bit grippier, but I seem to have more tail out issues now than before. It's got a lot of grip, so I don't know if I'm just being picky, but with the looser (overall) swaybar set up, I dunno, it's weird. It doesn't snap back into re-gripping, it just sort of slides. I'm describing it pretty poorly. On the bright side, it does hold nice at 120. :-) |
Originally Posted by paul
(Post 184545)
Tim, are you getting all this?
I do have a day job that's not making miata parts ya know. :td: I like BEGI a lot. A+ so far in my experiences :) |
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 185258)
those spax coilovers are terrible terrible terrible. 300lb/in springs all the way around, and the valving in those typically doesn't last a year (in the vw world...and they use the same damper parts in all dampers they make).
ACK. Thanks for the insight. Back to square one I suppose. :mad: Wow. I feel stupid. Just did a google search for them and found hundreds of bad reviews, can't find anyone that actually likes them. Good thing I didn't order them yet. Looks like I'll spend a few extra dollars and get some Teins or something along that line. |
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