shlammed

iTrader: (8)

would not hesitate on the boyds.

they are good for 25c, no doubt. used tires aren't worth much, imho... don't try to haggle the tires off it. the contis on the wheels now are good tires. try them out just to see if you like them if nothing else.

much wider than 18/19mm inner and your going to be pushing it to run a 25c tire.

Mazdaspeeder

Oddly their site has the new 2016 Altamonts with a 19.86mm ID and they are designed for a 25c tire. I actually have a buddy that runs 23c tires, so hes going to grab them from me so I can run the 25, helps him out cause he was looking at the same tires anyway but for 3x the cost new. I'm giving them to him for the same $25 that I'd save taking the wheels without them, I don't mind hooking someone up especially cause he always has to wait for me at the top of a hill lol

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I've run 23mm GP4K on Stan's Grail with no problem. Spesh runs a 22 on a 20.7mm id rim with that new Venge on the ugly brakes.

I would not buy the Boyd wheels due to the China-hub.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

$625 = $325
The panceti worth $300 eh?

I have no good info to add to the rim discussion. But...

I got my new wheel built and on the bike. Found out after 3 hours of struggling, one more blown tube, two rolls of rim tape, and 4oz baby powder that the LBS charges $7.50 to install tires. 30 min later I'm on the road and got my first KOM. Added exactly 1.0 lb of lightness.



New project arrived, going to swap over the not worn components off my heavyass mtnbike onto this old rockhopper. Should be fun.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

For the hub, I dislike Pacenti rims. Your Tarmac looks great.

TurboTim

iTrader: (9)

They both use bitex and cxray. I must be looking at something wrong. Thanks Trey. Those are your SL-K's and ultegra cassette. Must lower stem. And the $7.50 tire install means the tire stickers aren't aligned very well. WTB: Ultegra 6700 groupset.

EDIT: I must deflate the rear 700x25 to install the wheel. It's very tight back there. That was an ohshit moment but fortunately it fits.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I do the T-11 hubs, I'm sure Bitex is fine but they won't ever get my money. Nice to see my crank put to good use, still pissed it didn't fit my Stigmata. I was going to ask how many vertebrae you had fused.

Mazdaspeeder

Is that due to a bad experience, or just personal preference? Many people seem to be happy with their Bitex hubs, but I know some people just won't run certain things made in certain places, and that's fine.
Hubs: Hubs
Not sure what kind of hubs my wheels will have since they are about 2 years old. In the photos he sent they look the same but the 2013 and older use a different tool for the preload adjustment.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Okay, bike mechanics, help me out here.

I bought a used 2007 Specialized Hard Rock Sport on CL for my nephew, who just getting too big for his 24" wheel MTB. The Specialized was cheap so I went and grabbed it after work, but flat tires, no pump, work clothes, etc. precluded a test ride. Condition seemed fine though. I got it cleaned up, looks good, brakes work well, hubs are decently smooth, wheels are true, front derailleur works fine.

But the rear derailleur (Acera) won't shift past halfway on the cogset. The spring pulls it outward to the small cog, and I can shift 3 times from there. After that, the lever on the Shimano shifter moves like normal, but it does not "click" and it appears to not be pulling any additional shift cable at that point. I have verified that the limit screw is set appropriately on the RD (I can move the RD all the way to the largest cog by directly manipulating it or by pulling the cable myself).

So -- to me it seems like the shifter itself is the problem -- it just stops pulling cable after 3 shifts. Is there anything else I should check or adjust, or do I just need to replace the shifter?

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Lube the shifter machanism. Best to tilt bike/bars so tri-flow drips into ratchet and pivot for ratchet mech. It'll make a mess. Let it drip dry and wipe it off. OEM lube dries out, pawl spring won't overcome frcition from dried grease. Easy fix.

Make sure cables move freely. Download manual from Shimano website.

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Cheers, will try it tomorrow. Thanks!

hustler

iTrader: (6)

OMFG, purple:

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I had to walk once due to a China hub, twice on an EZO hub in Flo wheels. I'm sure they're fine but T-11s offer more than just a "quality hub". They're easy to service, don't require special tools, the disc hubs can easily and cheaply convert to any axle type. Also, they are flossin.

Mazdaspeeder

Fair enough. Just so I know for the future, can I basically use any other hub in them as long as the spoke holes are equal and the same pull type? In other words, if I have a hub go bad and decide to get a different brand, is it possible?

I bought the boyds, the rear wheel was rebuilt through their crash replacement policy last year so the rim there is basically new, and the front has about 2500mi on it. With the Gp4000S2 tires, and a SRAM 11-28 cassette that he didn't feel like removing, they cost me $475 shipped. Not bad for a slightly wider, slightly deeper, and hopefully stronger set. Weight is on par with the Ultegra set, but sizing is much more generous. That coupled with the reputation made it a pretty good buy in my book. My LBS mechanic who I've been texting with said Boyd makes an excellent wheel as well.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

you shouldn't have any issues with the boyds.

if you do need a new hub, it has to have the same spoke count. don't re-use spokes or nipples. straight pull hubs are cool, but then you need to buy CXray expensive spokes to build it and monitor twisting. Jbend spokes and their hubs are easy and cheap, but the straight pulls are supposed to be a little stronger because there is no crazy formed bend in them.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I would put Lazers on anything other than race wheels.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

same. but if you have straight pull, you should go bladed or you will spin the spoke in the hub without any way of knowing.

emilio700

iTrader: (3)

Straight pull round spokes can be built just fine but they are a bit of a bear, particularly if they are very light gauge. As I mentioned earlier, a drop of lube on the threads and under the nipple head allow it to turn with less friction. Just like assembling an engine. This is key in getting even tension and makes the wheel easier to stress relieve.

shlammed

iTrader: (8)

I agree. that's why I said you should get aero spokes and not that you have to :P

The tandem wheelset I built I did the nipples in a bath of lube. worked great, but it was a little messy.

Mazdaspeeder

Got the wheels on, along with a brand new set of 4000s2 25c rubbers. Wheels look fantastic, and I was able to beat my last time going up a 100 foot climb by over 30 seconds, even though I was using a 28t ring and not a 30 like I had before. Now, this might just be coincidence, so I'm going to try to re-do some of the routes I've done before. The rubber definitely sits wider, but not as wide as on what I've seen a 19.5. I'd say it sits just as wide as on the old rim, but this definitely has less lightbulbing. Tires ride amazingly, so much better than the ones I took off. Going over manhole covers ain't **** now, I thought before that it was always supposed to shatter your spine. Very happy with my purchase

One thing to add is that the spokes on these feel a lot tighter than the old wheels too, in the sense that on the old wheels I could grip 2 spokes and squeeze my hand and move them closer, and actually hear a rub. With these, they are much tighter.