EErockMiata

high rise handle bars +40mm with a stem with more rise to it 10-20 degree depending on length. Small changes to these two items have a surprising impact on bike ergonomics and handling (weighting of the front end in your natural resting position).

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

Options from cheap to expensive :
1) Move stem to top of "stack", aka move all the headset spacers below the stem.
2) New Stem with higher rise ~$40
3) Higher rise handlebars ~$40+

The crave does have a very low bar height. I've always felt awkward on those bikes.

Edit : Ninja'd by EErockMiata

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the reply, you too EErockmiata.

So I just looked at the bike and I think I see the spacer you're talking about. It's only maybe 1/4" thick though. I don't know how much it needs to come up, but my guess would be 2" or maybe more. Is there any way I can measure to know "how much" so I can buy the right part to correct this? I do want to fix it as it's just doesn't feel right the way it is now. I feel like if I put the tips of my fingers on the handlebars, then it feels about right but I can't actually ride/steer like that.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

If you ride around with your knuckles resting on the grips (think of fist-bumping the handlebars) that will simulate about ~10mm rise. Small adjustments in bar height make a big difference. If you still feel you'd like to go up more, I recommend looking into a ~30mm-40mm rise bar. I believe the Crave 29 comes with a flat bar out of the box.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Yeah, if I do the knuckles-resting like you say, it's better, but still feels too low.

I googled the specs and it says this for the handlebar:

Specialized flat, 6061 double butted alloy, 9-degree backsweep, 31.8mm

Soo.... I don't know what all of that means. I do see flat, and 9 degree backsweep, but no idea what the 31.8mm means.

What's the best way for me to get the right bar? I honestly bought this bike at the LBS a year ago, have probably 700 miles on it now, and nothing has broken so I haven't been back. Well, I was in West TX a few months ago and went to a different bike shop as I blew a rear tire, but that's really it.

Also curious what the difference would be between the riser and a different bar, as you mentioned both. Sorry for dumb questions, I enjoy my bike and use it for good exercise, but I don't know very much about it.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

The 31.8mm is the clamp diameter where it attaches to the stem.

I'd go to your LBS and speak with one of the guys there. Likely they'll put you on a ~720-740mm wide, 30-40mm rise 6x9 degree bar (6 degree up, 9 back). They may also suggest a slightly shorter stem to bring your position back and more upright.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the help man, I appreciate it.

One more question, since you clearly know about a million times more about bikes than I do...

Are there any "gotta have" upgrades I should do to the crave comp? So far all I've done is when I bought it, they did a tubeless conversion, and I added a good headlight and tail light since I ride at night. Otherwise the bike is completely stock. I think it's nice, the handlebars are really my only complaint. Just curious if there's anything else I should do, or ask about, when I go in about the handlebar.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

My philosophy about upgrading bikes is this : You only touch your bike in 3 spots; the bars/grips, pedals, and saddle. Make sure those fit you. Further, your bike only touches the ground with tires, so make sure those are of good quality, and matched to your riding conditions/terrain. The stock drivetrain/brakes/wheels work, and work pretty darn good out of the box. Until you are breaking things or marginal improvements will make an impact for you, then you can consider upgrading other areas as necessary.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Thanks for the advice sir! I think my pedals are cheap steel ones they don't seem to match the rest of the bike to be honest. The seat makes my *** hurt if I don't ride the bike often, but I'm a fatass (currently 210lbs).

Any recommendations for pedals? Or questions to ask? I know this isn't a question, but I just realized I have the threaded holes/bolts to add a second water bottle, and that would be nice, so I'll probably do that.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

So I looked and the spacer is maybe 1/4" thick, actually doesn't even look like that much. So pretty much worthless to move it for only 1/4".

But I did it anyways, since after googling it it's super easy, and free.

DAMN does that tiny change make a big difference. Just rode about 7.5 miles and it's for sure better. It doesn't suck anymore, hell it could be just right, I dunno what "right" really is, but this is way better than before. Before I felt like I was doing a pushup trying to support my body off the handlebars. Now it's not so bad.

So thanks for the advice sir! This made a nice difference. Still curious about pedals if anyone has any input. Mine are some really cheap looking steel ones with reflectors that are falling off....

EErockMiata

I keep a pair of these around for use on my road bike on occasion
pedals are extremely subjective to experienced bike riders. I'm sure a lot of us that ride a lot are paying 100+ for pedals so it's tough to give recommendations in the lower ends.

I'll say this, the deal with platform pedals is that when you really get into riding on them you basically buy them with tiny replacable spikes on them. Some times that comes in the form of allen set screws, other times allen one side, literally spikes on the other.

The kona pedals I linked are pretty tame, what I'm getting at is a hardcore flat pedal grips insanely well, until it comes off, and then you shred your shin.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Are the Stan's tubeless strips I'm using the wrong size for my wheels?

Click for huge:
https://i.imgur.com/XD1twfC.jpg

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

Hmmmm. I usually never use them rubber strips. I typically tape + valves. Try the valves i sent you.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

I would, if I hadn't already drilled the rim for the strips. :( I started to press one of the valves in, and it almost dropped past the rim bed.

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

Are they schraeder strips?? Weird you needed to drill rims.

You can try trimming strip carefully with razor blade so it nestled down below beadhook better.

Still, by picture there isnt much bead left for tire to hook onto when mounted.

Ill throw some larger "base" valves in the mail to you if I have some.

Savington

iTrader: (31)

Cyclocross 44mm Presta strips. Stan's has you drill the rim bed out to get a better seal.

I think I finally got it (knock on wood). I think the rim tape was interfering with the rim strip seal around the edge of the valve core hole in the rim bed. Took a razorblade and cut a circle out of the rim strip about 1mm wider than the hole in the rim bed and everything appears to have sealed up. No bubbles. I also used 1.5 cups of sealant instead of 1 cup and rode the tires around the cul-de-sac per yours and E's instructions. 50psi in the tires now. Hopefully it's still 50psi tomorrow afternoon

Chooofoojoo

iTrader: (7)

Should be good.

99mx5

iTrader: (16)

I went through all the pages in this thread and am finally able to commit to it with my poverty-level bikes. I grew up in BMX then pool riding then freestyle. I had a Webco, Thruster, Mongoose, Diamondback, JMC, and a Kuwahara. Sorry, no pics. Several coworkers got me into MTB a while back and I got back in the groove.

I bought a Specialized Hardrock. This bike took all the abuse I threw at it without any issues.



and went to Moab a couple of times.



Two-fingering on Steelbender...



I sold the Hardrock and bought a Specialized XC. I upgraded everything to Shimano XT and Hayes MAG disc brakes.



Every once in a while The wife and I go to the White Sands moonlight bike ride. I used my tire trailer to haul the bikes.



I got sick of using the trailer for the bikes, so I made a bike rack for the hidden hitch. Note the wife's sub-Joe Perez priced Schwinn bike.



I friend recently gave me his old '80s Peugeot Carbolite 103 road bike. This bike is surprisingly light for the amount of steel parts it has. It rides really nice.



I swapped the handlebars, brake levers and pedals to make it a hybrid-style bike and easier for me to ride since it's so big. The frame is nut-buster big for me.



Here's where I ask you guys for advice... A friend of mine is selling a couple of bikes and am wondering if they are worth it and if there are any issues with either bike. Both bikes have Ultegra components and the Specialized has carbon handlebars.

The first is a '99 Trek OCLV Carbon for $550



The second is a '05 Specialized Dolce Expert for $350 (Ignore the seat, he has the original.)

Savington

iTrader: (31)

The Peugeot is probably a 60+cm frame, but those other two bikes look like 48s or 52s. You really want something that fits you. How tall are you?

dcamp2

iTrader: (4)

First race of the season is coming up this weekend... Bike is ready to roll!



The current Enduro world champ (Jared Graves) is also going to be there to crush my hopes and dreams