haha I see them often in Matt Farra's one take series where he basically has to turn around or re-shoot a car because a cyclist takes the lane and doesn't care.

YOU SHALL NOT PASS

 

1993 S&M Dirtbike with og VG stuff. 2013 S&M 22" Holmes. BMX FTW!!

 

"Stripper MTB" is ready for next weekend's 4-hour enduro:

 

Any seasoned MTB bros want to give me a quick run-down of what I should know about racing 4-hours of single track? I am assuming I will be constantly in the way and probably too aggressive with passing, not sure how to do this.

 

Stay relaxed and fluid. Singletrack can wear you out if its technical. You can easily tire out your upper body which leads to crashes.
4hrs, eat. Treat the first 2.5hrs as a warmup for a 90 minute race.

 

Roger, thanks. I didn't consider the upper-body.

BTW, on that bike above it was a terrible, triple, poverty bike I bought new for $1100 three years ago. I picked up an X7 clutched 10-speed RD for $40, $20 NW crank ring, free GXP crank, $30 GXP BB, tubless wheels from the CX bike, $80 to convert the wheels to QR front and rear (lol), and $40 for the tires. It could use a lighter fork but I'll probably never spend the money.

 

I'm still waiting on my rims. Emilio recommended them along with Asiancycleexpress.

Valve stems aren't aligned to the same point on the tires, F/R. Take some pride in it man.

 

I'm thinking of dropping my stem down a bit more on my fuel seeing as I have quite a few spacers under it. My buddy rides a niner 29" hardtail and said my bike felt lazy compared to his. Part of that is that he has big bars on his, but I do kind of want to tinker with things and see what changes. Maybe I should see if the LBS where I got my roadie can do a "fitting" for me on the MTB since I bought that used. I don't know what to consider my riding style to be, I guess trail is mostly it, although I do want to go faster yet.

I did go from my ergo bontrager satellite elite grips back to round ones for 2 rides and can't stand it. My hands (outer fingers) start cramping up about 20 minutes into the ride, and I don't find that I have any more control over the bike than with the egos, so the round boys are going back in the drawer.

Also, doing a 40-50 mile road ride tomorrow morning, should be interesting. If I have any energy left at the end of the day, I may try to do an MTB ride with an evening group too. Performance clothes are working out really well, as is washing them in the sink. I washed everything last night at around 9pm and it's already dried out. I just pad it all down with a towel before I hang it up to air dry fully. and ring it out. Seems to speed up the drying process.

 

Anybody using a trunk rack on a Miata? Which one? Car you still access the trunk without dismounting the rack?

I have a roof rack system on my other car, but would love to cruise to some trailheads with the top down.
I am either going to buy another attachment for the roof system, OR a 2-3 bike trunk rack for the Miata. Help me decide!

 

I would personally go with a hitch mount. @thumpett007 has one on his miata, all alum and mounted to a FM hitch, and it's pretty cool/non intrusive

 

My favorite is a clamp on fork mount for the roll bar, and a suction cup mount for the back wheel.

 

lol @ not owning a One Up.

Tucked:


Extended when free of hetero-patriarchy:


Nothing really comes close, the last rack you'll buy.

 

Bros,
My friends and I will soon release a $200 kit through Jakroo. If you are interested, let me know, design is coming, it will be full of color and pro. You will need to sign an affidavit stating you will not wear it whilst carrying a saddle-bag or wear it with poor bike fit.

 

I have a problem:

 

Ok so I'm pretty sure my handlebar stem is too long. Not like deal breaker I can't ride it long, but definitely at least an inch too long for comfort (giggity)

Where should I start looking for shorter one and what makes a good stem? Or is it not a big deal and just find the right size?

14mi in the wind last night, felt like 28 without wind. but I did enjoy the ride. Really happy with my helmet, and even more so with the clear/untinted glasses I picked up the other day. My eyes go bananas riding without glasses.

 

More flexibility

 

I rode a Chris King equipped mtn bike last night. WOW.
The urge for fancy MTB wheels is extremely strong now. What are the poverty options for high tooth count rear MTB hubs? Are the Chinese wheels built with decent hubs? The Stans/King wheelset I rode last night made my factory Giant P29 wheels feel like racelands...

 

I had to go from a 100mm 7* stem to a 90mm 25* rise (bontrager elite). Part of the reason for more rise is because the stem base is taller so they had to give me a different combination of spacers under and over it, so they said the effective change from what it was stock really puts it at a 12* rise. This made the bike much more comfortable for me, both in reach forward, and with the lean angle.


Question to all, for saving weight, I know the wheels are the best place to lose weight (especially the rim itself), but is the endeavor of taking my bike from 19 to more like 15ish lbs worth the cost its going to take?
Also with rims, what's the deal with depth? I know deeper wheels will be worse in windy conditions, lightbicycle offers a few different depths between 24mm and 88mm. What's the consensus on the best ratio of weight/depth/performance?

 

nice. yeah I think my biggest gripe now is how far I have to reach

 

My LBS told me its fairly common to have to dial in bikes after you get them. My guy said that going over 20mm down on a stem is not really a good fitting bike for you, but he said that on his personal Trek roadie, he had to get a 90mm stem to replace his 100mm, and also get a different seatpost that was not angled at the top.