Subiewooobiewoo

My Dodge Dakota was reliable as hell. 12 years, and just over 140k before I got rid of it. Traded it in because the rust was starting to become a pain in the ass. It needed brake and gas lines, and the door buzzers had long since stopped working. Frame was still solid though. I wish I'd put money into it and kept it. The replacement Jeep is a piece of crap.

The one I test drove had an all black interior. Then the guy emailed me last night and said it was sold. Now I found this one with the black/beige interior and I think I like it better. Normally I'm not a fan of the wood look, but it looks more business like and this is supposed to be my new work vehicle.....so I guess its ok. lol

I had this exact interior (minus the Nav) in my '06LGT. Fit and finish is excellent. Nice, soft, durable materials. Beware....limited front leg room for those over 6ft.

Funny story - cruise control stalk is almost identical to those found in the Dodge Caravan. For some reason, in the Dodge the stalk felt fragile and did eventually break (co work van). This is the kind of skimping on quality materials that give american cars a bad taste.

hit 111,111 miles today.

http://www.boostedmiata.com/gallery2...2/DSC_0005.JPG

I have no opinion about the build quality of American cars. I'll just leave this here:

Attachment 240232

(I didn't plan for the tripmeter and odometer to both line up on interesting numbers like that, it just happened that way.)

5th generation Accord?

Prelude IIRC. Looks new.

honda civic?

Prelude. My gf had a '01 before she got her Mazda 6. She crashed it and I sold the remains on eBay for like $3500.

barf

my subit fxt is at 143k miles with dead turbo now fresh turbo on yay

Cars me and family members have owned and stuff replaced that isnt considered normal maintenance

2003 Dodge Ram 1500 4.7. currently has 238K miles. Replaced W/P, Radiator and Battery (Original Lasted 7 years) Check Front end last week, tight as the day it rolled off the assembly line.

2005 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 4x4 currently has 232K miles. Replaced WP, Fuel pump (last week), lower ball joints (developed slack Last month), Upper Ball Joints (Tight but replaced when doing lowers, Both Hub Bearings (one developed slack last year, other was done as a while your in there when doing front end.

1996 Chevy 1500 Z71 5.0 Sold at 222K. replaced Alternator (charged but chirped), Trans (Broke it mudding) Lower Ball joints, Compressor (leaked at front seal like all chevys)

1995 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 4x2. Sold at ~330K. Lifters (around 200k), WP, muffler.

1993 Chevy Suburban 5.7 4x4 Wrecked at 360K. Replaced Trans, WP, Lower Ball Joints.

1997 Chevy Camaro Z28 5.7 (151K). Rebuilt Trans (killed old one at strip) Opti (when doing cam) WP (just failed) Alternator (148K) Tie Rods (One developed slack last year), Rear end (put traction to it in first during a dig race had 3.73s installed which actually weaken the ring gear). Car has been spun to 7K regularly since ~81K.

2001 Dodge Dakota 3.9 Manual. 180K. Stock Clutch, only part to have failed is the WP.

1969 Firebird Convertible 350HO Auto. My first car, had 48K original miles. Sat in a garage and was never started for 18 years prior to purchase. Put plugs wires and points in it, cleaned the gas tank, put new trans fluid in it and put new tires on it and it fired right up and drove fine until I flipped it for twice the purchase price.

I have been very happy with domestics reliability and price to fix (CHEAP).

I bought a 91 Accord as a beater when doing the cam swap on my camaro had 118K on it. Replaced CV axles, clutch, alternator, fan assemblys, IAC, exhaust studs, muffler, distributor, ps pump, outter tie rods, lower ball joints, both front calipers, and my Honda Tbelt installed by the dealer popped 22K after being installed. Said screw it and kicked the shit out of the quarter panel, and told my brother if he wanted it come and get it.

Not all Imports are that bad, but given my track record Ive decided to mostly stick with domestics, although I really want a miata.

I am very surprised you haven't had to do more ball joint stuff or break jobs.

I consider pads and rotors normal maintenance, calipers not so much which is why I mentioned them on the honda.

I consider maintenace, wear items like pads, rotors, plugs, wires (I always replace with plugs), and belts.

Ive only ever had to replace ball joints on the 4x4s but we are pretty hard on those and Ive never had to do a set before 200K so Im not dissapointed, outside of the Honda which was a nightmare. I only drove it for a year and every week it was something else.

My crappy 2000 S10 from the days when supposedly all GM was junk is now at 143K miles. I bought it at 90K for 3 grand. I have put tires, a new set of front brake pads, and oil in it. I think its the original clutch. I have not changed the gear oil. Or the air filter. Or the water pump, timing gear, fuel filter, rotors, bushing or anything else.

Does it have an ABS light that comes on in hot weather? Yes. Is the interior crap? Yes. Is it gutless? (2.nothingL I-4) Yes.

Has it been about 10K worth of vehicle for 3K with less maintenance than the average lawnmower? Yes.

It's a truck. Not a statement of who you are. I really don't give a crap if a ton of amenities don't work.

I like Tacomas. But much like Rovers, pretty much every person who buys one new is a flaming dipshit. I never have understood that. The second owners tend to be pretty cool.

Im willing to bet you S10 needs some steering parts. I have one and its a mud/ranch truck so the WHOLE front end has been replaced but I dont blame it as its had a hard life and has 168K, but I have yet to see one S10 roll into the shop that didnt atleast need an idler or pitman arm. If your doesnt need one its probably already been replaced.

Once you get the steering linkage sorted they are very reliable though.

I had to replace the center link on mine, I bent it on a cactus, its also been buried about 4 inches above the bottom of the door, had to leave it for a week in a field. Kinda gives you a clue into the life mines had.