My brakes work really good!
07-18-2008, 11:12 AM
#22
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Paradise and La Paz, turning onto my steet about 1/4 mile from my house.
Looking at it this morning, it looks fixable, may not even be totaled, I'm still waiting for some one from either insurance company to come and checkout the car.
Last edited by BenR; 07-18-2008 at 12:54 PM.
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07-18-2008, 12:53 PM
#25
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The exhaust ends with a slant cut and slight downturn, no giant chrome tip out the back for me. Gives it a good sound and less police attention. The rear inner fender is pushed in and touching it now though.
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07-18-2008, 12:54 PM
#26
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Yikes.
Unless you are really good friends with the owner of a frame & body shop, I wouldn't bother trying to fix that. The amount of time & labor that's going to be required to get it straight again is simply going to be astronomical.
Let them total it, and then buy it back. Strip it. Use the settlement to buy a new, unmodified car and transplant the essentials. Sell off the rest of the parts (you'll probably turn a profit if you can find buyers for the doors, front end mechanicals, interior, and drivetrain elements) and have a metal recycler come pick up the gutted shell.
Unless you are really good friends with the owner of a frame & body shop, I wouldn't bother trying to fix that. The amount of time & labor that's going to be required to get it straight again is simply going to be astronomical.
Let them total it, and then buy it back. Strip it. Use the settlement to buy a new, unmodified car and transplant the essentials. Sell off the rest of the parts (you'll probably turn a profit if you can find buyers for the doors, front end mechanicals, interior, and drivetrain elements) and have a metal recycler come pick up the gutted shell.
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07-19-2008, 10:42 AM
#29
yikes.
Unless You Are Really Good Friends With The Owner Of A Frame & Body Shop, I Wouldn't Bother Trying To Fix That. The Amount Of Time & Labor That's Going To Be Required To Get It Straight Again Is Simply Going To Be Astronomical.
Let Them Total It, And Then Buy It Back. Strip It. Use The Settlement To Buy A New, Unmodified Car And Transplant The Essentials. Sell Off The Rest Of The Parts (you'll Probably Turn A Profit If You Can Find Buyers For The Doors, Front End Mechanicals, Interior, And Drivetrain Elements) And Have A Metal Recycler Come Pick Up The Gutted Shell.
Unless You Are Really Good Friends With The Owner Of A Frame & Body Shop, I Wouldn't Bother Trying To Fix That. The Amount Of Time & Labor That's Going To Be Required To Get It Straight Again Is Simply Going To Be Astronomical.
Let Them Total It, And Then Buy It Back. Strip It. Use The Settlement To Buy A New, Unmodified Car And Transplant The Essentials. Sell Off The Rest Of The Parts (you'll Probably Turn A Profit If You Can Find Buyers For The Doors, Front End Mechanicals, Interior, And Drivetrain Elements) And Have A Metal Recycler Come Pick Up The Gutted Shell.
+1
With a hit that hard, check the diff housing arms for cracks. On an NB they would be toast.
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07-19-2008, 05:32 PM
#30
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The last hanger is welded on to the pipe. I have a ultrashield rally, race seat mounted to the stock rails, I'm 5'10", my head has never been near the roll bar.
Thanks about the tip on the diff arms, I'll take a look at those.
Thanks about the tip on the diff arms, I'll take a look at those.
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07-19-2008, 06:08 PM
#31
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sucks been, but that car is deff totaled. needs over $1500 in sheetmetal alone, then about 40hours of labor at an average of $50 per hour.
i actually took my lincoln to get some estiments beause a cart guy a sams hit it, has some scratchs and a dent or 2 and the lowest estiment was $1800
i actually took my lincoln to get some estiments beause a cart guy a sams hit it, has some scratchs and a dent or 2 and the lowest estiment was $1800
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