Braineack

iTrader: (62)

If I was smart I'd use that. my monitor at home is set brighter on purpose so i can see better details in some games, but it ***** me when editing photos. But i dont really print, so i dont really care.

Efini~FC3S

iTrader: (4)

Price drop, $180 for a stupid good lens.

BUY IT

m2cupcar

iTrader: (5)

Need a large format printer?
I bought this last week. Only thing I'm lacking is the $250 Amex rebate gift card- which is est. to take 3-5 weeks. So if you're a rebate kind of buyer and want a photo printer, this is a pretty stellar deal. Make sure the B&H "PSWBH15" discount still works when checking out.

quote:

B&H Photo-Video offers the Canon Pixma Pro-100 Wireless Inkjet Photo Printer, model no. 6228B002, bundled with the Canon SG-201 13x19" Semi-Gloss Photo Paper 50-Pack, model no. 1686B064, for $49.99, via the directions below. With free shipping, that's $344 under the lowest total price we could find for these items sold separately elsewhere, although we saw it for $2 less a month ago. The printer features a 4800x2400 dpi maximum print resolution, up to 13x19" wide-format printing, 802.11n wireless, PictBridge compatibility, and USB. Deal ends August 29. To get this price:
View the Canon Pixma Pro-100 Wireless Inkjet Photo Printer for $399.99
apply coupon code "PSWBH15" to cut it to $299.99
redeem this $250 mail-in rebate for the final price of $49.99

Canon PRO 100 PIXMA Wireless Professional Inkjet Photo 6228B002

skidude

iTrader: (3)

I am bringing this thread back from the dead again to ask a question about light modifiers.
I need to take some half-decent photos of our product at work to include in the service manual. Not full-decent, I can't do that. Just "better than a point-and-shoot."

I am going to build some soft boxes or something out of foam board I think, but I am having trouble deciding how big to make them.
The product is big, like 6ft wide, and about 8 ft tall, but I also need to take photos of smaller components for their sections of the service manual. I need enough shadow so you can see detail of circuit boards, but I want to avoid harsh dark shadows common with bare flashes.

I have two Yongnuo flashes to play with. Thoughts on size and construction of the soft boxes? White inside or tin-foil inside? What material (if any) for the front?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Buy bounce umbrellas with a diffuser. I'll link what I have. Two for like 30 bucks

codrus

Umbrellas are cheap and work pretty well. Soft boxes work better, they give a more even light, but they cost a lot more. If you're driving them with speedlights, though, then you probably don't have enough light to drive a soft box bigger than about 24-36 inches square.

What size are the product you're trying to shoot? Are they six-foot long cabinets like the one in the photo? If you want the high-key product photography look then you're going to need a big roll of white paper and a support mechanism for it.

For product photography, you might look into "hot lights". With modern fluorescent and LED bulbs you can get a lot of light without it being all that hot, it'll be a lot cheaper than trying to do it with strobes, and for product photography you can put the camera on a tripod and stretch the exposure time to get the light you need without worrying about your subject moving.

--Ian

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

there's no real difference between this and a softbox:




soft boxes are heavy and take up a lot of space and require special brackets to mount with speed lights. they are also cumbersome, difficult to breakdown and transport.

I wouldn't even use a softbox for a job like that, I'd do something like this:


use a wall.

see 3:40:




hot lights or CFL or LED should be outlawed.

skidude

iTrader: (3)

Thanks!
For the sake of DIY (and because my company gave me $0 budget for this), I made a reflector-umbrella (sort of) out of white foam board we had around. I haven't gotten anything to put on the front, but so far that seems to be a good start. I will probably have to make another for the other speedlight, then get really creative with duct tape to actually mount them somewhere. When I actually get to take the photos, I'll make sure to get one shot of the awesome ghetto-rig I come up with.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

yeah, you need the biggest light source you can get before you need anything else.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

Lens ****:

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

in case anyone wonders why they are so damn expensive.

Joe Perez

iTrader: (8)

I have visited this lens in person at B&H:


It's quite impressive. They sold it a year or so ago. I don't remember the exact price, but it had several zeros in it.

codrus

IIRC, Canon only made them to order, they were $75,000 when new, not available any more, and I think they only made about 30 or so. Sports Illustrated supposedly owns 3. They come up for sale every now and then, usually trading in the six figures.

--Ian

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I think adorama has this one in NYC:

Sigma APO 200-500 f/2.8 Lens with 2x Teleconverter for Canon 597101

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Pretty sure I read it sold around $180,000

I think adorama has this one in NYC:

Sigma APO 200-500 f/2.8 Lens with 2x Teleconverter for Canon 597101








this is my big lens on my small camera:



that's the Tamron 150-600mm. I kinda want to sell it for the new Nikon 200-500 5.6

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Need recommendations on a travel camera. Last time we went overseas we took our Canon dSLR and 3 lenses. Got some fantastic shots, but it was a hassle and there were lots of shots that we didn't get because we had decided against carrying it around. And this time we're going with a 2 year old, so we definitely need to have a simpler solution that doesn't take up as much space packing or carrying.

My wishlist:

• Fast AF and shutter response and decent FPS rate -- My wife's biggest frustration with P&S's in the past has been the slow shutter response, meaning she would miss shots because the shutter would fire a second or two after she pressed the shutter release. FPS rate doesn't have to be crazy, but maybe at least 5 FPS shooting jpegs?
• Low-light performance -- And this is MY biggest frustration with P&S's in the past. I can't stand having to decide whether I want blurry, unrecognizable shots or harsh, direct (weak) flash shots when shooting indoors. I know a dSLR with a fast prime is still king here, but I at least want to prioritize this as a criterion.
• Easily accessible program modes -- Control dial and wheel would be good, don't want to have to navigate through a menu to switch to different modes.
• Decent zoom length -- The 30x superzooms are cool, but this is an area where I'm willing to sacrifice to meet the other criteria. 3x optical zoom would be okay, 4x would be better, anything beyond that is gravy.
• Price -- Don't need the latest and greatest, hoping to find something $200 or under, maybe a generation or two older.

Things I don't really care about:

• Megapixels -- These are family vacation shots, not anything I'm going to be blowing up to poster size. 10+ MP is fine.
• Brand -- I've used both Nikon and Canon dSLR's and various P&S's, don't feel any brand loyalty.

Among current cameras, I see a lot of recommendations for the Canon G9 X and the Sony RX100 V, but both are more than double my ideal price point. I am currently looking at used Olympus Stylus XZ-2's on eBay. They go for a bit more than $200 but you can find one under $200 occasionally. It's a bit older, but has a 4x zoom lens that's plenty fast (1.8 - 2.5).

Thoughts?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

exactly why i bought my a6000. I went with an APS-C sized sony sensor.

?:

https://www.dpreview.com/products/pa...asonic_dmcfz70

2slow

Body: Sony A7II Full Frame
Lenses: 50mm f1.8, 24-70 f2.8 Zeiss SSM
Tripod: Giotzo (only use for product photography)
Flashes/Strobes: Just sold my on/off camera flash (prefer natural light) , 2 soft boxes with CFLs for product photography
storage/travel bag: old Tamrac bag good for camera + 2 lenses and flash.
Post Processing: Adobe Camera Raw

I used to have quite a kit when i was shooting Sony A900 Full Frame and Minolta before that
- 300mm f4
- 400mm f4.5
- 80-200mm f2.8
- 16mm f2.8
- 17-35mm f2.8-f4
- 28-75mm f2.8
- 50mm f1.4
- 2x TC, 1.4x TC

I simplified my kit after changing direction in photography and shooting more people and landscapes (plus some products) and a lot less sports and other events. I've done weddings - way too much pressure and expectation. A few years back Keith from Flyin Miata had my image for his print catalog cover, some pics went to Grassroots Motorsports, some product images are currently featured on front pages of retail sites.

A small tip - Costco now has excellent 12x12 Premium Layflat photo books. Absolutely great quality at bargain price. Great color saturation, DPI density, fingerprint and dirt resistant laminated pages which can be done as lay-flat for an image spanning them (centerfold with every flip basically).


For times when I don't want lug around the heavy stuff, i bring Sony RX100IV - this thing can be as good as a DSLR under right conditions and with right settings.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

damn I bet you love that.

I'm debating right now if I should buy a used D4. talk about not small...

I'd love to go full Sony, but I can't afford that. no one can afford that.

2slow

You can afford Sony, just get it used. I pay only half of the original price because I don't buy it new. D4 is a great camera and can still deliver very good results, however, the tech has moved so far since it was released - AF, card speeds, wireless communication, ISO capabilities. Just get a decent, but recent lower end DSLR or ILC from Nikon/Sony.