You'll be much happier... plus, will need to step up to Magnum condoms with a 3/4-ton.

 

Honestly, if you can afford it, get the diesel 3/4 ton.

I would have bought one but they are WAY more expensive. Anything in my price range was 10 years old. Getting a loan on a 10+ year old truck is out of the question for me because of interest rates.

 

Personal loan, then transfer to a 0% rate credit card. Hammer the payments for 18 months, then transfer again.

A personal loan is kind of nice given the current climate if something bad were to happen.

 

I suppose, now i have enough as collateral in savings to make it happen.

 

Could I afford a diesel? Sure. But I certainly won't need it. Also future maintenance costs are scary, and $10k buys a whole lot of gas.

As for whether I'm sold on Ford: no, not necessarily. I am a little wary to spend $55k+ on a FCA product though.

Once we found out kid #4 was inbound, certain measures were taken....

 

Chevy express 3500 passenger van with 6.0ltr ls? 9k towing cap but its possible to max out gvwr of 14k with 4 rows of seats.

 

Not a Mormon.

 

Which is why you get a Duramax with an Allison.

 

So followup question: I'm assuming the only reason to go with a 3/4-ton over a 1-ton is registration requirements right? Oregon, as far as I know, does not require any additional registration fees as long as the GCWR is 26k lbs or under, which the SRW gas trucks should be under.

 

I personally like the 2500 variation because i can still haul anything i want without having the stiff ride of the 3500. The 3500 is great but un loaded the can ride a little rougher than the 2500.

 

It depends on the MFG big time. The only difference between a 2500 and a 3500SRW Silverado is the rear overload springs and nothing else. The difference between an F250 and an F350 SRW is enormous (I-beam vs solid front axle).

3500 SRWs are better as long as there's no legal downside to owning one in your state. Some states have licensing or weigh station requirements that change at 10k GVWR. Most 2500s are under that, all 3500s are over that.

 

What? Ford hasn't put anything other than a solid axle in the front of an f250 since 97. Since the introduction of the super duty trucks in 99 they have only had very minor differences between the f250 and f350. The primary difference is spring packages just like GM.

 

Interesting, even the RWD trucks? I could have sworn the 3/4 ton versions were still using that twin I-beam design deep into the 2000s.

Or maybe I'm thinking of the Dodges - I know the RWD Dodges are IRS, but the 4wd trucks are solid axle.

 

Obviously if it's not 4WD there won't be a solid axle. RWD trucks do use a twin I-beam front suspension but it's the same for F250 and F350.

 

How frequently will you be towing a 24' trailer? And how far?

There is still wayyy too much "go oversize or go home" mentality in the truck world - lots of guys drive 3/4 or 1 ton trucks when a half-ton would be perfectly adequate for them, and they are convinced that anyone who hauls with a smaller truck is an idiot - and they are very vocal in telling the world that.

A half-ton truck is a passenger vehicle, a 3/4 ton or 1 ton truck is a "truck" - what does that mean? the 3/4 and 1 ton vehicles are designed around hauling and towing first and passengers second - you'll not want to take the truck anywhere unless your utility needs necessitate taking the truck; it a relatively uncomfortable ride and getting in/out tends to be extremely inconvenient for anyone shorter than about 6' - running boards are always an option. If you buy the half-ton, you are getting a passenger vehicle which is comfortable, a bit more nimble, and which your family of 6 will frequently desire to take over the minivan/whatever else you have, but you really start to take the hit in payload capacity as noted by the manufacturers. As far as towing capacity, the manufacturer looks at hills, wind, traffic, braking, etc., but you do run the risk of tongue weight causing an issue (because tongue weight is placed on the rear axle of the truck and is therefore factored into your payload capacity).

In Ohio, there's no legal limit to how much you can tow (exceeding towing capacity isn't an offense), just don't exceed the weight ratings that turn you into a commercial vehicle or the axle ratings that determine safe operating conditions (again, payload capacity is a function of allowable axle weight)

If the half-ton meets your weight requirements and you won't be frequently pulling (moderate distances a few times a year or short distances a couple times per month), then it probably doesn't make sense to step up to an actual truck, and your family will get more use out of the pickup. If you do need to use it to tow frequently and long distance, then buy a real truck but accept that it will probably be hauling the family less often than you imagine.

I've got a Tundra, and I do occasionally tow at or beyond the rated towing capacity with properly distributed weight; you can get back a lot of your safety by driving appropriately. I'm happy to drive 50-55 on an open freeway at towing capacity while the 3/4 ton pickups are doing 80 with the same load, I just don't tow frequently or far enough to justify the costs of pushing the speed limit when I do.

There will be someone on here who wants to rip me or tell me that I'm unsafe and that someone is going to sue me when I run in to them and it's going to cost me millions of dollars - those are the same bro-dozers from line 2 of this post who will tell you it's unsafe to tow a pop-up camper with anything less than an F-450.

 

I will simply observe that you live in Ohio, where the highest point is 1500 feet, while dleavitt lives in Oregon, where the highest point is 11,500 feet.

"It's different".

As for truck recommendations, the Chevy dealer around the corner from me currently has advertised prices $10K below MSRP on brand-new 2020 Duramax Silverados. That's what I'd be looking at if I wanted a new truck.

--Ian

 

Hold my beer...

 

Unsafe is subjective so I won't say that, but if you willingly and intentionally tow a trailer which is beyond the MFG's stated rating for you truck, and you are involved in an an accident (regardless of fault or cause), and the other party in said accident sues you, and it is determined at trial that you truck was loaded beyond MFG's stated rating, your auto insurance will deny your liability claim. That chain of events, factually and objectively, has the potential to cost you literally millions of dollars. If you've never had the pleasure of defending yourself against such a claim, I don't recommend it. It will cost you ~$100k in legal fees before you even begin to pay off the settlement and/or your bankruptcy attorney's fees.

I don't own an F450 and my current trailer absorbs roughly 90% of my SUV's tow capacity, but I have towed some pretty sizeable rigs over the years and I've always paid a lot of attention to hitch capacity, GVWR, GCWR, and rear GAWR. Those four, along with tire ratings, are the five things you absolutely must pay attention to, IMO.

 

Well played, sir.

 

When we purchased, my wife wanted a bumper sticker that said "My truck can pull the space shuttle" - Dealer said he was fresh out... :-P