Thinking about picking up a Galant VR4
01-11-2012, 10:09 AM
#21
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I think its both actually: shitty design/materials from the factory AND terrible upkeep that turns them into nightmares.
Some cars, like DSMs, Volkswagens, Some bimmers, etc. Require way more maintenance and upkeep than others. I know some folks that replace the damn water pump every 20k miles on their audi. Some that basically overhaul all bushings on their e36 m3 every 30k miles or something retarded like that. You really SHOULDN'T HAVE TO do that much ---- to a car just to keep it running right. So that's a factory/design flaw.
Then you get kids that buy that car used, for pennies on the dollar, and invest all of 5 bux in maintaining them over the next year or two. The car ultimately ***** itself and they dump it on craigslist for someone like you to pick up: now you're stuck with a heaping tub of **** that needs to be completely overhauled or it will break down every other day.
Some cars, like DSMs, Volkswagens, Some bimmers, etc. Require way more maintenance and upkeep than others. I know some folks that replace the damn water pump every 20k miles on their audi. Some that basically overhaul all bushings on their e36 m3 every 30k miles or something retarded like that. You really SHOULDN'T HAVE TO do that much ---- to a car just to keep it running right. So that's a factory/design flaw.
Then you get kids that buy that car used, for pennies on the dollar, and invest all of 5 bux in maintaining them over the next year or two. The car ultimately ***** itself and they dump it on craigslist for someone like you to pick up: now you're stuck with a heaping tub of **** that needs to be completely overhauled or it will break down every other day.
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01-11-2012, 11:21 AM
#23
Scrappy, I think he's referring to his Veedubs.
I'll take the GVR4 over any of that Euro stuff any day. Parts are cheap, there's a TON of aftermarket support for that drivetrain, and they are relatively fun even left stock. As I and others stated, the poor reliability rep really is tied more to cheap, retarded owners that give DSMs a bad name. You should see some of the jokes of a car that comes in to my buddy's DSM/Evo shop. Younger owners are for the most part just ------- stupid, can't work on their own ----, refuse basic maintenance, and then blame him for the next 5 things that fail. At this point he pretty much refuses to modify cars that are not brought back to stock reliability first.
I'll take the GVR4 over any of that Euro stuff any day. Parts are cheap, there's a TON of aftermarket support for that drivetrain, and they are relatively fun even left stock. As I and others stated, the poor reliability rep really is tied more to cheap, retarded owners that give DSMs a bad name. You should see some of the jokes of a car that comes in to my buddy's DSM/Evo shop. Younger owners are for the most part just ------- stupid, can't work on their own ----, refuse basic maintenance, and then blame him for the next 5 things that fail. At this point he pretty much refuses to modify cars that are not brought back to stock reliability first.
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01-11-2012, 12:04 PM
#24
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I'm not worried about the reliability at all. I dont know why these people are going off comparing these cars to VW/Audi products.
I do need to know what to look out for when I go to look at the car next week. Going on tuesday I hope.
I do need to know what to look out for when I go to look at the car next week. Going on tuesday I hope.
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01-11-2012, 12:56 PM
#25
IIRC all GVR4s had 6 bolt motors from the factory. Here's how to check that the car still has a 6-bolt motor (not a replacement 7-bolt): http://www.vfaq.com/mods/early-late-engine.html
While you are under there see if it looks like the pan bolts have been removed at any point. No reason to do that unless the motor has been apart.
6 bolt motors are typically less affected by crankwalk, but a few symptoms:
You stated that you'd be ditching the 4WS so I'll assume you don't care if it works...with that sort of mileage I bet it will still function, though.
Use your best judgement WRT whether the car has been modified and reverted to stock. Pay attention to hose clamps, nuts/bolts on the exhaust mani/turbo area, etc...you know all that I'd assume.
Check the front of the motor for leaks down low. If there is any evidence of leaking, pull the upper timing cover (4-5 10mm bolts) and try to see if it's coming from up high, and check if the belt is new/oil soaked/kevlar (yay). If up high it may just be the VC gasket or cam seals, if lower it is quite possibly the front main. If the TB is overdue, you can bet that the BS belt is too. Kevlar for at least the BS belt if you keep it (I see you said that you might ditch it, though).
Both my 4g's had leaky valve seals by 110K, so a puff or three at startup could be associated with that. Also, the stock turbo on my second car (T25...not what is on this car, though...stock GVR4 turbo was a 14b) was done at 96K, so I'd pull the inlet tube and see how the shaft feels. Also see if there's a huge amount of oil in that tube from the VC breather...a thin film is OK, puddling is an issue lol.
If the car is a sunroof model try to ascertain if it's a factory unit. I looked at a GVR4 a couple years ago and it had an aftermarket glass power moonroof that looked like a factory piece, but there was a shitload of bondo between the leading edge and the windshield to smooth it out. Yikes.
That's it off the top of my head. If he's got records even better, and you obviously know cars well enough to pick out bad hoses/crappy electrical splices/etc.
Here's a nice, clean stock engine bay...good reference shot (edit: just noticed it's RHD lol):
While you are under there see if it looks like the pan bolts have been removed at any point. No reason to do that unless the motor has been apart.
6 bolt motors are typically less affected by crankwalk, but a few symptoms:
Since the clutch places pressure on the crankshaft, many owners have reported clutch or shifting problems associated with the walking crank. Having the clutch 'stick' down on left-hand turns is often a telltale sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include inconsistent engagement height, poor or rough engagement, difficulty shifting, ticking noises and varying pedal height or pressure. Another possibility is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is down.
Use your best judgement WRT whether the car has been modified and reverted to stock. Pay attention to hose clamps, nuts/bolts on the exhaust mani/turbo area, etc...you know all that I'd assume.
Check the front of the motor for leaks down low. If there is any evidence of leaking, pull the upper timing cover (4-5 10mm bolts) and try to see if it's coming from up high, and check if the belt is new/oil soaked/kevlar (yay). If up high it may just be the VC gasket or cam seals, if lower it is quite possibly the front main. If the TB is overdue, you can bet that the BS belt is too. Kevlar for at least the BS belt if you keep it (I see you said that you might ditch it, though).
Both my 4g's had leaky valve seals by 110K, so a puff or three at startup could be associated with that. Also, the stock turbo on my second car (T25...not what is on this car, though...stock GVR4 turbo was a 14b) was done at 96K, so I'd pull the inlet tube and see how the shaft feels. Also see if there's a huge amount of oil in that tube from the VC breather...a thin film is OK, puddling is an issue lol.
If the car is a sunroof model try to ascertain if it's a factory unit. I looked at a GVR4 a couple years ago and it had an aftermarket glass power moonroof that looked like a factory piece, but there was a shitload of bondo between the leading edge and the windshield to smooth it out. Yikes.
That's it off the top of my head. If he's got records even better, and you obviously know cars well enough to pick out bad hoses/crappy electrical splices/etc.
Here's a nice, clean stock engine bay...good reference shot (edit: just noticed it's RHD lol):
Last edited by matthewdesigns; 01-11-2012 at 01:18 PM.
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01-11-2012, 09:02 PM
#29
Originally Posted by wayne_curr
Wow thanks dude, i'll keep all that in mind 
AFAIK there was not a sufficient revision to the thrust bearings from the factory to completely eliminate it. My friend has a proprietary fix for it where he modifies the bearings, but he ain't talking lol. Here's his site...maybe there's some info on it there. www.JacksTransmissions.com
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01-11-2012, 09:41 PM
#30
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No problem. And I just verified that all GVR4s were 6bolt from the factory, which for whatever reason didn't 'walk as much as the later 7bolts.
AFAIK there was not a sufficient revision to the thrust bearings from the factory to completely eliminate it. My friend has a proprietary fix for it where he modifies the bearings, but he ain't talking lol. Here's his site...maybe there's some info on it there. www.JacksTransmissions.com
AFAIK there was not a sufficient revision to the thrust bearings from the factory to completely eliminate it. My friend has a proprietary fix for it where he modifies the bearings, but he ain't talking lol. Here's his site...maybe there's some info on it there. www.JacksTransmissions.com
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01-12-2012, 10:26 PM
#31
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still love my Gvr4. even though i haven't driven it in years, don't think i can part with it. didn't even want it when i bought it. i was originally buying a '92 gsx, but when i got there it wasn't anything like he claimed. totally pissed and had a hell ride on a bus to go pick it up, riding the bus back to Tx. from Michigan (1,785mi.) was not an option. I looked around and found my galant and figured I could sell it once i was back in Tx. Well it grew on me. So comfortable, and after i did some suspension upgrades it felt tight but compliant like a M car. I had 2 dsm's before this one and went big on the GVR4. port/pol. head 3 angle valve job, webb cams, crower ti retainers, valve springs, stainless swirl pol. undercut valves stems, ported everything, turbo housings, exhaust mani., intake. tial wastegate, greddy bov, intercooler, 4" turbo back exhaust, chipped ecu, Zo6 maf, maf translator, fidanza flywheel, act clutch, aws delete, 4 bolt rear and axles, on and on. like hustlers car of the galant scene. oh btw, tranny lasts about a year when your over 400whp and practice mechanical empathy. if you stay around 300whp or less they last a long long time.
few pics from a PCA DE/TT
btw, 28-29psi feels awesome!
few pics from a PCA DE/TT
btw, 28-29psi feels awesome!
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01-13-2012, 12:37 AM
#32
Btw this ^^^^ is me. I was using jakes computer and forgot to login under my name. Lol
Also one other thing about these cars. The build quality, fitment, everything, is nothing like a dsm. Dsm's were built in america and unfortunately sucked because of it. The gvr4 was built in japan and is on another level compared to the dsm's. Chassis way stiffer, doors shut solid, even the A arms were boxed in. (welded by hand)
Also one other thing about these cars. The build quality, fitment, everything, is nothing like a dsm. Dsm's were built in america and unfortunately sucked because of it. The gvr4 was built in japan and is on another level compared to the dsm's. Chassis way stiffer, doors shut solid, even the A arms were boxed in. (welded by hand)
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01-13-2012, 01:54 AM
#33
Originally Posted by not jake but really spoolin
GVR4 sexiness
oh btw, tranny lasts about a year when your over 400whp and practice mechanical empathy. if you stay around 300whp or less they last a long long time.
oh btw, tranny lasts about a year when your over 400whp and practice mechanical empathy. if you stay around 300whp or less they last a long long time.
Great looking car, and sounds like it was a monster. It's crazy how you ended up with it. What turbo do you have on it?
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01-13-2012, 03:13 AM
#34
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Yes someone who tracked one! What is the wheel and tire situation? 4x114 bolt pattern hurts my options. Im having trouble deciding on what the best route will be. 15s or 17s.
Im super excited to check this thing out! I hope i can talk him down a little though.
Im super excited to check this thing out! I hope i can talk him down a little though.
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