What kind do you have/trust. I have one of these from Sears(Craftsman) and have never compared it to anything else for accuracy. Are these type more or less accurate than the click types?
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Usually more accurate IIRC, although harder to use.

Ironically, the Craftsman isn't known for holding its calibration very well. Someone on M.net compared a 2-year old Harbor Freight wrench to their Snap-On wrench and they were dead on.

I paid $15 at HF for this nice injection-molded red case and got a free 1/2" torque wrench with it.

 

My understanding is that the variety of torque wrenches in your pic are more accurate than clicky ones.

That being said.... mine are all the sort that click.

 

I like clicks. Tough to use the beam type unless you can get into perfect position to read them. I have a 3/8" Craftsman and a 1/4" and 1/2" HF models. I have them calibrated here at work and the HF hold pretty well.

 

The beam types are more accurate if space permits you to use them properly. However, for most automotive related stuff, an accurate click type will work fine. I had my harbor freight one checked and it's ***** on accurate above 20 ft*lbs. But if I'm torquing head bolts on a 2 stroke or anything that uses inch*lbs, I use a beam type.

EDITED for clarity.

 

I use a torque wrench for crap like head-studs and wheel lugs. I don't think a few lb variance really matters for those. If I need real precision, I send the part off with a check so a pro can do it for me.

 

I have a Snap-on digital techwrench,best torque wrenches available,it beeps and vibrates,you can set it to inch/pounds,ft/pounds or newton meters.

 

+1 for Harbor Freight.

The minor accuracy advantage the bar-style holds is negligible unless you are looking at pound-feet.

 

me too. bitchin piece of gear.

my issues with it:

it's long as **** and sucks batteries fast.

 

I have Snap-On 3/8" and 1/2" click types that I bought while working in a shop. I bought them off ebay for less than 50% of what my Snap-On guy wanted. Slightly used, but for the money, I couldn't beat it.

 

I used a 1/2" walmart click type when I did the clutch. Hopefully it was close....the car is still running so I figure...

 

For me,the length is not that bad.

When your not using it,take the batteries out,they will last longer,also use industrial alkaline batteries.

The only issue for me is,cleaning it when I'm done using it,I hate seeing grease on something this beautiful & expensive.

 

I had a Sears click-type. It stunk and then the innards literally flew out one day.

 

you can score a non digital snap on click type on ebay. work awesome and forever. everyone is upgrading to the digital ones.

 

I use the craftsman clicky type...so does my friend who is an airplane mechanic (and pilot)...if it's good enough for him...good enough for me.

 

I have a crapsman one that I loaned out one time and it has not worked right since.

 

I have a HF 1/2" one that I use for lug nuts and other random grunt work like that. Used it on a dodge neon head gasket swap and all is well thus far.
I also have the 1/4" click type they sell, little brother of the 1/2" one. It's good for valve cover bolts and other little junx.
For the price you can't beat them. Though I would love a Snap-on click type.

 

when it comes to tools unless the are idiot proof, in the sense there s no way they can be damaged/ harmed I don't loan them. I have Mastercraft and they work as good as my dads snap-ons.

 

Harbor freight click-type is good enough for most everything, and doesn't require you to read a scale. For critical tolerances I'd get one of the digital ones.

 

My Craftman **** broke after only 4 or 5 uses. I was doing the head bolts and at about 50lb/ft it slipped and wouldnt hold very well after that. I guess the mechanism that holds on the gear broke. I replaced it with 2 Westward Snap-On, one 1/2'' lb/ft and one 1/4'' lb/in. 2 for the price of one Craftsman. Got them from Grainger supply. Dont look very high quality, but they work. Even the worst Ive seen for click type is +/- 5%, which at 60lb/ft for the head bolts is only like 3lb/ft. Hardly enough for me to worry about, and thats maximum. Hell, even at 8% I wouldnt be too upset. Thats why I over torque everything by about 2-3% to be sure. Rather it be a bit too tight than too loose. I also have a beam type thats like 50 years old, so I dont know how well it works, and wether or not I trust it with anything that needs to be close.