when's this going down? ill send my mount with the FMU....

For your sake, I hope it doesn't grenade at a high rate of speed. That'd suck.
Here's the vid cam to broadcast this feat to the world.

Brainy you slack bastard. You're worse about shipping shit than I am!! Thanks for the offer, but I'll get it covered on my end.

I have a Samsung miniDV-some shit-er-other camera that I can let someone hold, worse case. I could always hook it to my standalone dvd burner, and then load the dvd into the computer. Problem solved.

Maybe this will motivate me to going to the 7" rear. Right now, I can tell you I'm anything but motivated to work on a miata now...

the camera mount will need to be below the rear bumper. I want to see the diff and the ferrari in the same shot.

you mean the diff chunks and ferrari exploding his clutch on the starting line

hahah I'm an asshole :inout:

It takes like 4 hours to swap a rearend. Seriously... do it. Don't make a slick mess all over the dragstrip... I hate when people do that...

This is going to rock. Don't worry about a mount though, have someone in the stands tape it. If you win and the camera was pointed out the windshield all of the youtube skeptics will cry foul.. not that they matter but better to be covered IMHO.

Yeah I hate the racing vids with the cam pointed out the window.. better to see the overview from outside.

the thing is built already, two hours tops...especially since he knows his way around the car....


Ben...this is a good angle...https://www.miataturbo.net/braineack/videos/1strun.wmv

can I reuse diff mount bushings or do I have to get new ones?

only need new ones if they are the rx7 ones....that rear was already on a miata right?

• you just gotta jack it up pull the wheels, drive shaft & axles
• unbolt the two bolts on the PPF, unbolt the PPF spacer from the diff
• unbolt the two plates over the mounts, unbolt the diff from the body mounts
• drop diff
  
• jack up new diff
• bolt up mounts, reinstall plates
• reinstall axles (if 1-piece design you may have to drop exhaust and insert axles before bolting diff up, then ease it up and bolt.)
• bolt back up the ppf stuff
• install new driveshaft
• torque down on the axle nuts the best you can
• reinstall wheels, drop car, torque axle nuts.

You need to add the following step after each of yours:

or in my case, curse and throw shit because no matter what stubshafts, circlips, seals I use, the diff still leaks.

haha Jay

I don't think it will be that bad. The control arms were a PITA on the parts car (fucking thing was in Germany then New England) but the diff isn't frozen in. It's still bolted up to the car, but the driveshaft, ppf, and hubs are on the ground. My 91 is a summer driven GA car, so no rust issues there.

Yah, it isn't a hard job. I had it done on/off in 4hrs with handtools/solo/first time wrenching on a miata and fighting tons of rusted bolts.

I hate midwest cars.

Do the swap.....

yeah please just do the swap... please

hohoho, Im glad i stumbled upon this thread.

::subscribes::

JOE PEREZ is right,the 360 cant win even if he does....please swap the diff if you have it.

the nuts and bolts are the easy part my frigin axle was seized in the hub and had to be pressed out via a 40 ton press. GL man it is simple and easy swap so long as nothing sticks. Also yes just reuse the stock c clips. Brain i only have tranny leak issues now. Damn thing is weird comming out of the fill plug. You can actualy do it all without taking the wheels of the car. so long as nothing is seized

How are you guys pulling 2.0+ 60fts? I was managing 2.1s with a FF car on street tires... and I suck at drag racing.