What to expect at the Dyno? - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 11-06-2006, 12:09 AM   #1
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Default What to expect at the Dyno?

My first time ever going to one should be in the next week or two. I have to get the turbo up and running. I'm gonna run it a week or so low boost and then do the clutch. Once the new clutch is broken in, it's Dyno time.

It looks like there are three places around here. Abacus, DTP, and Millenium. Still haven't decided where I'm going, but they all seem to go for about $150-$200 for an hour with tuning. What's the general chain of events when I go? What questions can I expect? What do I need to bring? How do I prep the car? I assume those guys will know how my Begi AFPR works, how to dial in an MBC, etc... I'll have the Bipes accessible so we can change settings on it... What else do I need to know?
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:16 AM   #2
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Bring a spare set of spark plugs. Double check all couplers, clamps and vacuum lines before you go. Make sure you have plenty of gas in the tank.
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:49 AM   #3
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fresh oil change, make sure base timming is on, if they dont know you are rwd i would be wary. a little oil just in case. and instructions for the bipes fpr and anything else in case you have a modle that is different from what they are used to so if any problems arise you can help them out. a grab bag of tools to fix any available problem couldnt hurt either.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:30 AM   #4
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Before heading to the dyno make sure the car is running in tiptop shape. I'd get a new set of plug wires. I've seen many a Miata have issues with the RPM signal on the same dynojet dyno. Wouldn't want to waste the $$$ on the dyno and not come away with a good chart. When I went to the dyno I couldn't get good rpm signal, dyno operator said that it was because I was misfiring, I suspect that their RPM hookup was marginal at best and the miata ignition system made it that much worse.

In my opinion buy an LC-1 and skip the dyno for now.
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Old 11-06-2006, 04:30 AM   #5
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Hey Sam, if you gonna get you car dynoed go to Dyno Inc. Their located right off the Oceana Base and do the best job around here hands down. I have hung out with some of the guys who work there and they really know there ****. Here is there number: (757) 493-3555. I belive they around $150/hour and they use a mustang dyno. Drop my PM with your date and time and if I'm not working I'll swing by for shure.
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:12 AM   #6
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Don't assume they'll know how to tune.

I always bring a timing light and a lot of tools. First time I was on the dyno I tinkered around for about 30mins trying to make more power, turned out the biggest gain was from tightening the wastegate arm.

Make a base run, figure out what's going on as is.

Then the first thing I would do it open the Rx-7 Afm and watch your AFR at idle on the dyno. Adjust the tension of the unit untill you get the closest to 14.7 AFR. Then bust out a timming light and confirm your idle RPMs and timing are exactly wher you want them. Tune accordingly.

Have your fuel pressure gauge installed and make another run and monitor your fuel pressures. At peak boost make sure the pressure don't skyrocket. You'll want to look for about 100-110psi.

Look at the A/F curve after the run and confirm if the fuel looks good. *If the dyno uses a sniffer post-cat then you'll look leaner on the graph than you actually are, so tune to 13:1-12.5:1 on their graph*

If ping was heard adjust the Bipes as needed. Ping can also be seen on a graph by lean spikes or power dips, usually at around 5.25K or greater. But in general aim for around 6-8° of timing in boost.

Tighten the wastegate arm as tight as possible and make another run.

If you like what's going on now then try to raise the boost a little. Monitor the fuel pressures and make another run. Analyze the graphs and adjust as needed.

You'll reach a point when you are making 100psi of fuel and you'll start going lean, this is where the limit of the injectors will be. Most likely around 160-180rwhp.

If you get a flat/lean tip-in adjust the base pressure of the BEGi unit a little more. somewhere between 50-60psi at 0 ~Hg. This should help with that since I don't think you have an 02 clamp to adjust.

Youll find an hour is plently of time.
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:28 AM   #7
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[QUOTE=braineack;55305]Don't assume they'll know how to tune.

Amen to that! You'd think they would, but it's amazing how many really don't!
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:41 AM   #8
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I wouldnt let them tune it, I would tune it yourself. Familiarize yourself with the FPR, Bipes, and RX7 AFM. They are all easy as pie to tune, and something that you can do yourself. I would see if they would let you tune the car on the dyno for an hour. Ask if you can buy 1 hour of dyno time but youll do the tuning, well thats what I would do
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Old 11-06-2006, 12:50 PM   #9
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as mentioned above a cheap wideband would allow you to tune yourself for about the same price, only thing is you wouldn't get HP figures.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:08 PM   #10
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exactly why I went with a wideband. I know exactly whats going on all the time now and whenever I make a mod. Then I can just go in for $50 and get a few pulls.
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:39 PM   #11
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I'm telling you. Dyno Inc knows thers ****. I have heard nothing but awesome reviews from there. Plus, all they do is Dyno tune cars. They might do a little work here and there on customers car but mainly all they do is dyno.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:05 PM   #12
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I'll head on down there and see what those guys know.

I'll also seriously look into WB now. I think the LC1 is everybody's primary recommendation. This is the cheapest one I found on eBay w/a gauge included. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Innov...46730708QQrdZ1
I'd actually like a round dial gauge, but that takes me up over $300. Anybody know the best deal in town for one of these.

Thanks for all the advice. It has brand new plugs and I'll be sure to check over every fitting and clamp on the whole thing. I engineered my fuel routing for easy install of a gauge when needed.
I'll be sure to have directions for the Begi and Bipes on hand.

You guys can see my whole setup in the sig. What do you think is a good PSI and HP number to aim for... assuming safe A/F's and timing pull. I was hoping 180rwhp at the end of the day.

Also, what should I set the base timing to prior to tuning? I think it's set to either 12 or 14 now.

I had also planned to run the stock MAF initially as the couplers I bought didn't mate up to it, but mate to the stock one perfectly. With only shooting for about 8-10psi, is there an advantage to the RX-7?

I thought I had all this covered, but better ask now than later!
Thanks again for all the help!
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:23 PM   #13
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with 1.8 injectors I'd expect 160-180rwhp max before you start to lean out, most likely around 6-7psi.

I bought my LC-1 and autometer gauge from $240 shipped.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:47 PM   #14
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you can just use a cheapo led a/f gauge, you just have to setup one of the lc-1 outputs to go 0-1volts. I'd also say a safe range would be 160-180, really depends how much fuel pressure you're comfortable with
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:07 PM   #15
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a $10 panel meter will display the AF from the LC1 (or other wideband)
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:28 PM   #16
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with the 190 and a good IC you should be able to hit 170 the first try shoot for 190. Have you had any driving ont he car with turbo yet do abit of htat so that you have a fair tune going before you head in and the dyno time will be more for tweaking for HP. good luck.
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Old 11-07-2006, 01:29 AM   #17
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The turbo isn't installed yet... up on jacks until this weekend. You can be sure that no matter what I do, it's gonna be safe! What about that timing setting... should I dial back the base timing a little or is it OK at 12* or 14*?

M2, could you post a link to a panel meter, I have no idea what that would look like.
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Old 11-07-2006, 09:33 AM   #18
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that's what the bipes is for! keep it where it is, take the timing out with the unit.
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