****, i gotta bring that too now?

maybe your drills are all dull.

try the grind and drill with a known sharp one.

then use heat and stuff.

man, that IS a rusty turd.

 

its a sleeper.

 

What about dremel/hacksaw a slot in and use a big flat screwdriver?

 

weld a nut on the other side then use the nut to unscrew it. Or...umm....you're weaksauce.

 

could work if i had an impact driver. I'm going to try to find a good Ti or Carbine drill bit or whatever and try to use an extractor.

 

Last time i was at lowes they had a decent selection of carbide and Ti drills.

 

use heat too or that ain't gunna work either.

 

The welded nut might have worked before the hole, but now there's a chance of a big mess with the bolt metal so thin.

My buddy swore by these when remove an exhaust manifold stud from a cast iron head.

when you're through removing this thing you better update your lsd price list thread with tools purchased :gay:

 

I gotta take a trip to Sears on my lunch break tomorrow and see what I can't find.

No worries...If if it wasn't for any of these problems I wouldn't have the tool collect I have to-date.

 

slot it with a cutoff disc and get a manual impact that you hit with a hammer and use some nice penetrating fluid

somethis like this but more heavy duty
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...=-1&PID=619506

 

+2

You've been soaking it in PBlaster or equivalent too, haven't you? Didn't look like it in the pic.

 

Cobalt bit FTW.

After seeing the poor results on my manifold from some hack (pervious owner) attempting to drill out a sheared stud I'd take it straight to a machine shop and let them un-**** it for you. Or you can **** it up even further and pay even more in the end

 

I really dont want to have to lug a whole rear assembly if I dont have to.

 

After penetrating decisions, I have made my decision to slot it, lube it with PB blaster, and ream it with a flat blade enough so that it unscrews.

Be warned however, you might be left with half a bolt to the depth of the cut.

 

hey brainsy, since the head is gone, why can't you just pull the housing off without removing the bolt?

 

its still threaded in and holding the aluminum section tight.

 

It should only be threaded into one side of the housing or the other... so I think his question is still valid.

 

Yeah, maybe you can spin the whole aluminum rear housing counter-clockwise to un-thread it from the front carrier.

 

nope, there's half a diff under it still...

I still bet there's some amount of heating and banging (you know, like your wedding night) that could separate the two.

 

Ah yes, my wedding night...I don't think I learned anything there that can help us with Scott's situation, though :(