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Old 01-31-2007, 01:38 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
if i had a welder I'd try that.
****, i gotta bring that too now?

maybe your drills are all dull.

try the grind and drill with a known sharp one.

then use heat and stuff.

man, that IS a rusty turd.
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Old 01-31-2007, 01:41 PM   #22
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its a sleeper.
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Old 01-31-2007, 03:52 PM   #23
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What about dremel/hacksaw a slot in and use a big flat screwdriver?
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:13 PM   #24
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weld a nut on the other side then use the nut to unscrew it. Or...umm....you're weaksauce.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:14 PM   #25
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What about dremel/hacksaw a slot in and use a big flat screwdriver?
could work if i had an impact driver. I'm going to try to find a good Ti or Carbine drill bit or whatever and try to use an extractor.
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Old 01-31-2007, 04:28 PM   #26
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Last time i was at lowes they had a decent selection of carbide and Ti drills.
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Old 01-31-2007, 07:13 PM   #27
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Quote:
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We all have different methods, and every situation seems to be different...

I'd suggest the mig/tig and bigger nut approach, but I'm lazy...
use heat too or that ain't gunna work either.
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:14 PM   #28
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The welded nut might have worked before the hole, but now there's a chance of a big mess with the bolt metal so thin.

My buddy swore by these when remove an exhaust manifold stud from a cast iron head.

when you're through removing this thing you better update your lsd price list thread with tools purchased :gay:
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Old 01-31-2007, 09:59 PM   #29
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I gotta take a trip to Sears on my lunch break tomorrow and see what I can't find.

No worries...If if it wasn't for any of these problems I wouldn't have the tool collect I have to-date.
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:41 PM   #30
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slot it with a cutoff disc and get a manual impact that you hit with a hammer and use some nice penetrating fluid

somethis like this but more heavy duty
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...=-1&PID=619506
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:51 PM   #31
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+2

You've been soaking it in PBlaster or equivalent too, haven't you? Didn't look like it in the pic.
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Old 01-31-2007, 10:52 PM   #32
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Cobalt bit FTW.

After seeing the poor results on my manifold from some hack (pervious owner) attempting to drill out a sheared stud I'd take it straight to a machine shop and let them un-**** it for you. Or you can **** it up even further and pay even more in the end
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:24 AM   #33
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I really dont want to have to lug a whole rear assembly if I dont have to.
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:34 AM   #34
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After penetrating decisions, I have made my decision to slot it, lube it with PB blaster, and ream it with a flat blade enough so that it unscrews.

Be warned however, you might be left with half a bolt to the depth of the cut.
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:11 PM   #35
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hey brainsy, since the head is gone, why can't you just pull the housing off without removing the bolt?
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:34 PM   #36
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its still threaded in and holding the aluminum section tight.
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:28 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by braineack View Post
its still threaded in and holding the aluminum section tight.
It should only be threaded into one side of the housing or the other... so I think his question is still valid.
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Old 02-01-2007, 01:40 PM   #38
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Yeah, maybe you can spin the whole aluminum rear housing counter-clockwise to un-thread it from the front carrier.
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Old 02-01-2007, 02:35 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian View Post
Yeah, maybe you can spin the whole aluminum rear housing counter-clockwise to un-thread it from the front carrier.
nope, there's half a diff under it still...

I still bet there's some amount of heating and banging (you know, like your wedding night) that could separate the two.
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Old 02-01-2007, 04:11 PM   #40
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Ah yes, my wedding night...I don't think I learned anything there that can help us with Scott's situation, though :(
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