Whos got a motorcycle here?
 

So whos got one?
What kind do you have?
How long have you been riding, history behind it?
One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider?


Gonna be picking up a bike soon and want to get a convo going about anything specific I should be aware of aside from the common stuff like getting proper attire.

Also im looking for a forum for motorcycle discussion that's not sportbikes.net.

2000 cbr 929. riding for 9 years.
advice: don't try something you're not comfortable with, even if you're a fast learner it takes time. Don't ride with people you don't trust.

never really interested in a forum for bikes for some reason

1985 Suzuki GS700ES, some custom work.
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Riding/working on it for 6ish years.

TAKE A BEGINNERS RIDING COURSE!!!

The only mistake I ever made with motorcycles was buying my first one new. Your first bike should be practically disposable. Get something about 10yrs old that's been maintained well in the $2k-$3k range... nothing fancy and no big motors... just a plain easy something that you can learn, and that you won't be afraid of.

I just found your new bike.
2000 sv650 original owner
or
'00 Suzuki SV650

You'll love a twin for your first one. The Suzuki SV's are wonderful machines. I rode an SV1000 once and I almost sold my Aprilia to get one. The 650 is predictable and balanced. The bike magazines creamed themselves for months when these things came out and they have a huge following.

When you're done with this bike, sell it for what you paid and move on. I promise you'll have no regrets.

my 1984 vf500c
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Start with a cheap bike that you wont cry if you drop it in the driveway cause you forgot to put the kick stand down and walked away. Ask me how i know about this ;)
Do not skimp on tires
Do not ride where you dont feel comfortable
Keep that shit sober remember even my old ass bike can take me 0-100 in 11 secs and the newer ones even more.
You might not die but the shit will hurt like a mother fucker. Oh and if you dont wear a helmet wich is a choice but god damn it isn't that much of a hardship atleast wear some good glasses to keep shit out of your eyes. 90 mph or even 50 mph fly into the eye is like getting shot with a sling shot in the eye. Ohh ive been riding for about 8 yrs now. In rain and shine but nvr snow.

I couldn't make up my mind so I tried a bunch. The 06 600rr and aprilia rsv1000r have been sold and the 07 600rr is still around. Riding for 8 months. My advice: find a bike you're comfortable with and stick with it for a while. Don't rush into new bikes like I did.

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If you're not the kind of guy that needs the biggest, fastest, most powerful bike (and you'll know if you are), you might end up sticking with the sv650 "forever" if you're into naked sports bikes. So if you truly want a starter bike in that category, I'd try a 80's or 90's ninja 250 or 500, they're still great fun for only about $1000. You'll grow tired of either one pretty quick though, they're slow. But like magna said, plan on dropping it once or twice. Some guy's don't, but generally they have a little dirt bike experience or something similar. What kind of bike are you looking at?

Sold my last bike when I left CA, but have been riding for about 10 years on and off.

A big question is: what are your tastes? Are you a Cruiser guy, a Sportbike fan, or looking for a nice best-of-both-worlds Standard?

My first bike was a Honda CB250 Nighthawk. While not great on the freeway, it was excellent for around-town use, and cruised comfortably at 65. The nice thing about these bikes is that they're cheap to buy, cheap to maintain, cheap to repair, and no self-respecting thief would ever steal one. It also happens to be the standard bike used at pretty much every MSF training course on the planet, so when you take the course, you'll be riding the same bike you own. At 6'1" and about 190lb at the time I fit pretty well on it, which is rare for a 250. It's also pretty lightweight, so it's easy to pick up after you drop it. And you will drop it.


My most recent ride was a Suzuki SV650. This was just an awesome bike. Relatively affordable, very comfortable, powerful enough to cruise at 80 without feeling the least bit taxed, and enough torque to have fun pulling away from lights without accidentally popping wheelies in 6th. It's a little bigger and heavier than I'd recommend for a total novice, but certainly better than a crotch rocket with clipons and high pegs (I'm talking layout here, not merely engine size). On the plus side, you won't quickly outgrow it. A used one, like SamNavy has pointed out, would be a good starter so long as you're not a total asshat with the controls. The front brake on that machine will stop you faster than crashing into a brick wall if you're too grabby with it, and it is possible to wheelie it if you're not reasonable with the throttle in first. I don't want to scare you away, just point out that if you're the kind of guy who tries to find the limit right out of the box, you might want to start smaller.


One thing to remember- those superbikes like the GSXR and the ZX14 are a bit like Lamborghinis. They're scary fast in a straight line, but not really great for turning.


Unfortunately, a lot of shops won't let you test-ride a bike, especially if you're a newb. At least spend some time sitting on 'em. Have the salesperson hold the bike straight, put your feet on the pegs, work the shifter, work the clutch and front brake. Wear your boots and helmet while you're doing this. Get a feel for how easy the controls are to operate. Notice how the visibility is with your lid on- mirrors, instruments, etc. Make sure that while in the riding position you can turn your helmeted head fully sideways in both directions.


Apart from that, all the gear all the time. Jacket, overpants, leather boots, leather gloves, full-face helmet. I don't care if you're just going three blocks to the grocery store- you suit up before you get on. I've been down twice. The first time was a few months after I bought my first bike and started feeling confident. The second was about two years ago, at ~65 MPH. I've still got all my original skin.

Had a CBR 600 F4 for almost a year. First bike, bought it when I was 18 with my parents disapproval, everyone said I was going to kill myself on a 600, obviously never did. Never dropped it or put it down. Didn't really have any dirt biking experience either, just riding friends dirt bikes once or twice.

Never had anything other than my skate shoes, leather jacket, and shorts.

Advice: Take it easy, and keep it in your head that any mistake you make could end your life. Don't ride twisties with others until you have gotten some experience. Even if you think you are ok to ride with them, you will likely end up going faster than you are capable of.
Oh, and try to avoid evading officers. :-)

Advice 2: Ride like you are invisible. Cars don't see you. That's the most dangerous part.

1994 Ninja 600E2 98RWHP. Yosh full system, Stage 3 jet kit, -1+2 520 Sprockets.

Quit while you're ahead.

So whos got one? Not me anymore, screw being married.

What kind do you have? (Had) Triumph Daytona 955i

How long have you been riding, history behind it? Been riding for 10 yrs, stepped up to this bike from a progression of smaller displacement bikes. 400cc, 500cc, 650cc >>>etc. This was the most amazing bike I've ever owned. Not a race replica, but a gentelman's sportbike. Litrebike power, sport tourer comfort and composure, supersport handling and braking.

One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider?
Definitely take the safety course. Even seasoned riders will pick things up/break bad habits. It's best to start out the right way.

Start on a good beginner bike. This will allow you to grow your skills without creating the poor riding habits an overly aggressive bike tends to create in a new rider. This WILL NOT be the bike you own for the rest of your life, so don't worry about it. Get a cheap beater Ninja 250 that you can sell again next season for almost as much as you paid. The average rider swaps bikes every two years, and you'll always be stepping up and trying something else until you find THAT bike. It will also be hard for you to really know what you want in a bike without having ridden for a while. Save your money (and experience) for round two. Everyone I know that has done this is not only still alive, but very happy with their riding experience. Most folks that jump straight onto a supersport have very short riding careers for one reason or another.

EDIT: Sam beat me to the good cheap beginner bike part. He mentioned a Ninja 500 as well. These are excellent bikes, and easy to work on. I rode one for two years, and it was honestly one of my favorites due to decent power and comfort, cheap parts, and a great forum (ex-500.com). I never worried about it since it was cheap and undesireable. It wouldn't smoke other bikes (or even a GTO) but was faster than 98% of the cars on the road, which means you can still get out of your own (and their) way. This also means you won't tire of it so quickly. I didn't step up from that bike until I knew every edge of it's envelope, and that my riding skills were finally ready to surpass them. This is what starting small and stepping up is about. Don't every let a bike get ahead of your skill set. Stay in control: of yourself, your bike, and your situation.



I really like sporttouring.net as well. I started over there when I got into bike forums a few years ago since my rides to school are 100miles each way and fit into the sport-touring category. They helped me find my last two bikes, both of which I enjoyed thoroughly.

Scheduled for July 8th.


I was leaning toward a GS500, but the more reading I do the more I am convinced that the SV650 is the way to go.

Nah. Im def not the guy that needs the biggest, and the fastest. Its not that I dont trust myself, its just that I dont see the point. Even the middle tier bikes are already stupid fast, how much more do you need. I hear that the more powerful bikes are also less forgiving if you make a mistake. Totally love naked bikes, so I think the SV650 is gonna fit. I will def start with a used one, and once I gain proficiency pick up a new one.

In the end, I really want to build a cafe racer. Theres something about that vintage euro look that calls to me.

At the very least I am going to pickup a jacket, helmet, gloves, and boots. I have seen enough shit online that shows its not so much as the impact that kills you, its the lack of skin covering your internal organs after you grind to a stop with nothing between you and the ground but your hide.
I'm a cruiser guy but I dont want a Harley. I also don't like the laying down seating position of the super sports. So I think a best of both worlds would be ideal.

I agree with the dress. Its one thing I always intend to do. Its dangerous enough to ride the thing in the first place, but it would be stupid to not protect yourself at least some how.

So whos got one? Used to have a Yamaha YZF-600R with my brother.

What kind do you have? Now he has a R6 that I ride occasionally and keep trying to buy from him. Currently looking for a FZ6 or cheap-ish R6. Would get a BMW if they'd ever come down in price. Would love to have a Duc looking pretty in the garage.

How long have you been riding, history behind it? Been riding since 2003.

One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider?
Education: Take a newb Safety Class and then the Advanced one a few months after you start riding (I still need to take the advanced as well).

Gear: 100% gear 100% of the time. The bare minimum for myself is helmet, gloves, pants, closed toe shoes, and jacket at the very least. For the twisties or longer trips it's boots and sometimes leather pants. No flip flops and no shorts.

Don't get a flip up or open faced helmet.

Look on Ebay for really good gear deals, especially used Leathers. Helmets from an online source or special ordered from a local place are better if you buy new. This is because they will usually have a new date of manufacture and helmet material degrades with time.

If you sit your helmet on the bike it will eventually fall off. Dropped helmets make baby kittens cry.

Towing: Make sure you have AAA or towing on your insurance. Even a minor drop can sometimes break stuff and being stranded sucks.

Tires: Get the stickiest tires you can, even if they only last maybe 6K miles. I've always liked the Metzlers but you're probably fine with any of the major brands.

Theft: Disc locks are good and fit under most seats. Lock the bike up even if you keep it in a garage.

Riding: Stay in your own comfort zone when following someone through the twisties.

My :2cents:

Chris

2002 Kawasaki ZX-9R (orange)
Been riding for 15 years now.
*always* wear a full face helmet, gloves, leather jacket, long pants, closed toe shoes.

Miatamaniac92 pretty much summed everything up. Excellent post!

I have been riding for 13 years. I have had many motorcycles. My first bike was a 1992 Katana 600. Great beginer bike, had lots of room for improvement. But as a starter bike for todays times, I would recomend the SV650. I had one as a commuter bike, and again like all Suzukis it was a great bike. Fun in the corners, and still decent amount of power. Plus there is lots of after market goods avaible for it. I know at least 4 people that bought SV650s as there first bike, and still own them after moving on to bigger and faster.

Not sure exactly what you mean... I guess it depends on the mistake. The most common riding error that a new guy makes is entering a corner too fast and making a combination of mistakes that results in driving wide off the road... typically involves poor corner entry, head position (looking in the wrong place), too much rear brake, and a few others.

From being an EMT for 4 years and 8 years of riding experience, I can tell you it's completey the opposite. Abrasion injuries are usually shoulders, butt, calves, thighs, head, back, arms, and ankles. During an accident, the body is natually going to curl up if able to protect the internal organs. I've never seen somebody's abdomen scraped open. On the other hand, a 20mph impact into a solid object (even fully geared up) is enough to kill you from internal injuries. It IS the impact that kills you.

SV650 is the only choice for a starter bike.

I'm riding a Suzuki DRZ400-SM these days. I just got rid of a Triumph 955i. Before that I had an SV1000 and half a dozen other odds and ends before that. My favorite was probably the SV, but my old KZ400s was a close second.

As far as advice, buy the best gear you can afford. If you can't afford a $400+ jacket and $400+ helmet you can't afford to ride. I ride Dainese, Alpinestars, Shoei, Arai, Sidi... And that's pretty much it. You WILL fall off the bike at some point, and you WILL be a giant scab if you're wearing junk. I'm far from rich, but I saved my nickels until I could afford to buy nice enough stuff that I feel safe in it.

Also, never, ever ride with someone you don't trust, and never ride over your head. If the guys you ride with a fast enough that you're afraid of losing them, find slower guys to ride with. If they make fun of you for being slow, find new guys to ride with. You should never feel uncomfortable with the guys you ride with or the bike.

Ride like no one around you sees you and all of them want to squish you. Trust no cager. Making eye contact does not mean they actually saw you or that they won't come over on you anyway. I like to keep a couple of semi truck lug nuts in the pocket of my jacket for instances like this.

And lastly, beware the confidence. Almost every incident or close call I can think of having was my own fault for either not paying attention to what was going on around me, or being overly confident in my capabilities.



P.S. If you're not having a good time, you need to reevaluate your situation. Riding is about entertainment, not transportation. If you're not grinning in your lid every time you crack the throttle, you're doing something wrong :D

naked bikes rock man

Supermoto's are all the cool things about a naked bike, plus the ability to go ANYWHERE. I have pics of my DRZ on top of the courthouse steps :) And they're indestructible, imminently flickable and slow enough that you can absolutely abuse the thing on the street and not go to Federal Pound Me In The Ass Prison.

They just don't do interstate very well, lol.

Again Sam beat me too it.

I read "sliding worse than impacts" and was slapped in the face with a big WTF?. Impacts will always do much more damage to your internals than the skin you lose to asphalt. This doesn't mean you shouldn't wear good (leather) gear, but that you should be seriously worried about what you can run into, and what will run over you.

This is why riding on a racetrack is actually safer. You may have more accidents, but they won't be as severe(disregarding highsides). On a track there is purposely very few hard objects to slide into, and there are no cars and 18wheelers to flatten you. With good gear you can slide all day and just walk away bruised.



On big bikes being less forgiving you are correct, but I think the only regards to displacement are improper throttle input. I have seen guys on bikes too big for their britches roll on too much throttle exiting a turn and have the back tire come out. In traffic this can happen by hitting bumps as most newbs don't keep their wrists in the right spot to dampen road imperfection's effects on controls.

Smaller bikes do tend to be a little easier to recover from skids and such.

I was referring to getting over zealous with the throttle by accident, at any time, and if you dont know what you are doing that additional power just maximizes the possibility of something bad happening.

Ill take your word on the accidents and what kills you. Scary shit++

At 400 dollars, do the jackets come with the armor plating or are those more then 400?

You and your ninja edits.

I understand now what you are saying on the survivability. You do want to keep road rash to a minimum because once you have injured yourself you want as less healing needed as possible for your body to fight the serious internal injuries you've sustained.

nah my honda jacket has armor in it and strong outer material i paid about 250 for it on sale. The joe rocket jackets also work well for around 200 have armor and decent grind protection.

If you check newenough.com often enough you can find some unreal deals. Go into a local cycle gear so you know all your sizes for different brands and just watch. I scored a $400 armored leather Joe Rocket for $130 last year.

Totally forgot about this site, definitely will have to keep an eye on it.


One thing that totally bites is that it takes 4 - 6 weeks for the wavier to come from the DMV after I pass the course.

hein gericke, eBay Motors, Clothing, Shoes Accessories items on eBay.com

Chris

Once I move, I'm going to hide in the woods back here at my old place and snipe the stupid MOFO on his sport bike who goes WOT 1st thru 3rd gear leaving the stop sign adjacent from my bedroom window... regardless of time of day/night.

Then I'm going to chloroform the neighbors dog, tie him up by his testicles hanging from their porch, and bang on their back door and run.

Sorry so off topic. I did mention sport bike though.

I'm 21, been riding since I was 7, and have had 8 bikes so far. I've had everything from 50cc dirtbikes to 600cc sportbikes and got some road rash from the latter. I'm a huge fan of Ninja 250's as starter bikes and would probably get one of the new ones for a track bike if I had some money. That being said, you will get tired of it eventually and an SV650 is the best compromise in my opinion for a new rider.

As far as other advice; everyone on the road is trying to kill you, ie ride defensively. You're taking a cycle course so that's a good step, but I also highly recommend doing a beginner track day at some point to learn the limits of the bike in a place with no cops, traffic, or gravel, plus it's an insane amount of fun.

So what jacket brands do you guys recommend?

newenough has some alpinestar jackets on closeout in the range of 200 - 300, how do I know whats good and whats not good for the money?

What about helmets? They have Scorpion Exo 700's for 109. Reviews seem to be really praising the hell out of it, but how safe is it to buy a helmet that cheap?

My last jacket (which Abe now owns) was a Cortech, made from perforated leather, with armor on the shoulders, elbows, and back. While much heavier than the textile jacket I had before that, it was surprisingly breezy and comfortable. Despite having some relatively thick padding, movement of the arms was not at all impaired nor did it feel like I was wearing a flak jacket. It also had a removable insulated inner liner for when it got chilly.

The real selling point for me was that the stitching was quite heavy, and all the hardware was metal. When I went down wearing the previous jacket, the stitching failed causing the whole left shoulder section to detach as one piece, and the plastic front zipper separated.

As to helmets, the old saying is true: how much is your head worth? My current lid is a $400 Shoei RF-1000, which replaced an identical one that I killed in my last crash.

Actually, it's not just crash-resistance that separates the cheap helmets from the pricey ones. A lot has to do with comfort. All else being equal, the high-end units tend to be lighter, quieter, have better ventilation, and are lined with nicer stuff on the inside. They also usually have interchangeable inner foam pieces so you can customize the fit around your cheeks and temples. Even simple little stuff, like the D-rings that you use to fasten the strap and the hinge that the visor moves on are nicer.

Like shoes, helmets are something that you just gotta try on in the store. You can try out 20 different models, all in the same size, and you'll find that some just fit on your head better than others.

Oh, and I'll add a +1 on Newenough. I've bought a lot of stuff from them, and never had a bad dealing. Read the "Paul's Comments". For a sales pitch, they actually seem to be pretty truthful and accurate. They'll tell you if a certain model tends to run wide or long or thin or short. Some jackets are cut for underwear models with six-pack abs, others are designed for folks lugging around a mini-keg. They also do a pretty good job describing the fit-n-finish, the various types of padding, etc. Also, some jackets are cut at the shoulders and elbows for use with lay-down sportbikes, others better accommodate upright bikes, and yet others the "arms in the air" cruiser crowd. They're not going to come right out and say "this jacket is crap, but we still sell it", though you can kinda get a feel for which ones they really like, and which ones are just "good enough."

Good point, I know what its like to buy expensive shoes vs cheap shoes.

What about textile vs mesh jackets? or is leather the only way to go?

you mean for your insurance or for your papers to ride hell all we need in KY is a written test and we can ride. They are all very capable of keeping you from harm however the leather is the best while being hotter heavier and pricier. My honda jacket is a textile and i would trust it at most any reasonable speed to help me walk away with less injurys, my dads mesh joe rocket jacket is good for probly 20-30 mph slideage, leather is required by most tracks to race and holds up well into ludicrous speeds.

+1 on the SV-650, great bike. Buy used, lots of them out there.
+1 on getting a good helmet. Skip the graphics to save money.
+1 on riding in a group at first. It is good to ride with others for safety, but it is really easy to get in over your head fast if you are riding with a better rider. I saw a new rider break his leg in a corner on his new sport bike after being clearly and strongly warned not to follow the pack but to ride at his own pace. He got in over his head trying to follow a fast guy, ran wide in a corner, hit a guard rail, and broke his femur, less than 20 minutes into the ride. Game over.

Leather is definitely better than Cordura or mesh, no doubt. But it is also hot. If you live in a hot climate, get fully perforated leathers. Also, get a two-piece for the street. One-piece is too difficult to get in and out of. BUT get a full circumference zipper for safety. Get an undergarment like a RS Taichi. It will help keep you cool and make the leathers a lot more comfortable.

Stay away from Technic, their leathers suck, even the high-end ones. The stitching burns off fast in a crash and they come apart. I know this first-hand. AGV is a good lower-cost brand based on what I have seen. One of the guys I race with crashed in his AGV suit (one-piece) like 6+ times before he finally retired them.

I have crashed in my Vansons three times and they are still going. Vanson is expensive though. I got really lucky on mine, a used set, practically new, off ebay, for $250 IIRC. They look like shit now, but they are still doing their job.

Two basic tips on leathers. The fewer pieces they are made from, the better they are. Fewer seams means larger pieces of leather (more expensive). If you look at the good rack suits (Taichi) or the good custom ones (like Vanson or Syed) you will see this trend. Also look for hidden stitching style seams. If all of the stitching is right on the surface, it will fail in a crash and the seams come apart. The good ones will be double or triple stitched with some of the stitching buried in the seam so it is not exposed to sliding pavement.

Armor is important too. I would also get good gloves, and good riding boots. Sidis are great. Not cheap, but comfortable and will protect your feet well in a crash.

+1 on Newenough they are a good store. Keep an eye on ebay too.

I've got s set of heavy duty Joe Rocket textile stuff in the closet. I believe the model is Ballistic. I could never buy into the leather for simple daily riding... but the better textile stuff has all the armor and is much more comfortable than leather for medium and long distance riding. Draggin Jeans and the Bohn Armor stuff is also great defense against all but the most serious slide-events.

SPEND SOME TIME TRYING ON HELMETS!!! No helmet is the same as another. One model from one company will fit your head like a damn butter glove. I had no idea how important helmets were until I started flying tactical aircraft and was forced to wear one for 8-10hrs at a stretch.

You'll go through a set of gloves every 12months max... maybe sooner depending on how often you ride and how much they get wet. IMHO, you want something that comes down and has a large velcro strap that covers all the way down to the big bump that starts your ulna. Covering that huge lump of bone with the gloves ensures it's protected in case your jacket sleeve rides up during a crash... nothing worse than carpal bones exposed because you bought bicycle gloves to ride in.

Boots are like gloves... THERE CAN BE ONLY ONE! It's not like Nikes where you try on the cheapest pair and they feel OK and you're sure they'll just work themselves in. Try on multiple models in various sizes and various manufacturers until you find the one that fits perfect. Boots you'll have forever and they should fit like I fit in your Mom (you know what I mean)... just kidding, but seriously... you know.

Doesnt the MSF teach that the tailender sets the pace for the pack?

Thanks for the info on the cloths guys, im gonna look up some of this stuff and come back with more questions.

Currently own a CBR600 Fsport, and a fair few 70's 80's Jap bikes.

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And in it's current state.
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Been riding motorbikes since i was 14 so 26 years.
Raced on the track, road racing, enduro and 1 race on a supermoto.
Toured around Europe on everything from a RD250 air cooled to a CBR600.
I think i've had or ridden extensively probably around 80% of bikes sold till 2000.

Most outrageous was a 300bhp Turbo'd ZZR drag bike, some how managed to wheelie AND wheel spin at a 100mph.

Not much to add really as you've already got great advice here.

Best advice i ever got was from a racer that used to live locally, ride smoother not faster.
Sort of makes sense when ya riding.

I'd also agree with riding on your own at first, at least till you start to find your comfort zone and limits.
It's just to easy to notch it up a bit faster, panic then ride head first into a tree.

Most crashed i've seen are stupid ones where the rider has just bottled it.
Instead of tipping into a corner, they convince themselfs they're not going to make it and sit up.
Far better to just drop it on it's side and try and make the corner.


Ohh and look where you want to go, not at what you don't want to hit.

And get some trackdays done.


Cheers
Mark

Target fixation is a common cause for newb crashes, I once heard from a racer that you should look around 10 degrees past where you can actually see when going around a blind corner.

I think it's just instinct.

I still do it.
I broke me arm 6 weeks ago cause i simply couldn't seem to tear me eyes away from a fooookin rock (MTB) yep i hit it. :jerkit:

Target fixation is a bitch. It bites just about everyone, but you can learn to fight it.
Looking through the turn is one of the keys to riding better. It takes practice. The general idea is look where you want to go, not what is right in front of you. That is one of the things I do not like about cars; the a-pillar gets in the way of looking through the turn, especially on the driver's side.

Question. ZX-Tex.

Full circumference zipper, is that a zipper that attaches the jacket to the pants?

Im guessing.

------

If I had to compile a list of companies that make dependable gear, would it look like this. Add or subtract if I should or should not consider that company for that particular item.

Helmet:
Shoei
Arai
Scorpion

Jacket:
Vanson
Joe Rocket
Alpinstar
Cortech

Pants:
Same as jackets?

Boots:
No idea, who makes boots?

Gloves:
No idea, who makes gloves?



Does one company do better textile then leather, or vice versa?

Yep, you got it. The idea is to keep the jacket and pants held together if you go pavement surfing. Some just zip together in the back with crappy zippers. The better ones have strong zippers that go all the way around.

Add a back protector, a good one. Mine is a Dainese. Alpinestars makes good ones too. Mine is this one
http://www.dainese.com/us_en/motorbi..._uso=45&cat=41

Helmets - All good choices

Leathers - Add AGV unless you read otherwise. I think the higher end Dainese leathers are good, but they are pricey like Alpinestars. Not too sure about Joe Rocket or Icon except for the mesh stuff. I have a Joe Rocket mesh jacket and pants though I have not crashed in them.

Pants, same as jackets. I would get a matched set.

Boots - Sidi and Alpinestars are both great. The Sidis I have are no longer made but are very similar to the B-2 model
Sidi B-2 Motorcycle Race Boots :: New Enough, LTD
Sidi Strada Evo Air Motorcycle Sport Boots :: New Enough, LTD

Gloves - Alpinestars, not sure about others. Maybe AGV here too. Mine are rebranded ones I bought from a race tire supplier after inspecting them first hand. I think Held is good too. I recommend the gauntlet style for the extra protection. Ventilation is good if you are in a hot climate.

You can do some searching at these motorcycle racing forums to get the skinny on what is good and what is not so good. Many opinions are based on crash-testing.

CMRA ::: Message Board
Wera.org - Careers Resources and Information.This website is for sale!

That back protector looks awesome, I think I can classify it as a must have, but with something like that under a jacket does it make sense to spend more then needed on a jacket? Like getting a jacket with additional armor?

Would it be possible to stay under a grand when shopping for gear?

Also.
http://www.newenough.com/armor/back_...rmor_vest.html

Garbage or decent compared to the one you mentioned?

Funny story.

My last crash was a pretty bad one. Highside at a fair rate of speed. Broke six ribs, punctured a lung, tore the shit outta the tendons in my left foot (boot got caught under the shifter) and did some surfing. Rode away from that one strapped to a board in the van with the flashing lights.

After the initial workover by the trauma team (which I swear felt pretty much like being in the TV show ER) the chief resident spent some time going over me as well. I'd already been stripped by that point, but it was obvious from the lack of road-rash that I'd been properly geared up. The chief, who I later found out is a biker, commented "I take it you weren't wearing Joe Rocket."

Apparently he holds quite a low opinion of them. And I place a great deal of weight on the opinion of a motorcycle-riding trauma surgeon insofar as the issue of riding gear is concerned.

Ironically, the textile Hein Gericke jacket & overpants I'd had on both failed pretty dramatically. The left shoulder tore completely out of the jacket, the plastic front zipper on the jacket and one of the two plastic side zippers on the pants popped apart, and the pants abraded down to the point that my jeans and wallet both got scuffed. After that, I only rode in leather.

yeah i guess i should get better street gear since i wear my hien gericke textile jacket and helmet and that's usually it. I have my leathers i wear on the track but they're hot and uncomfortable. a buddy wears draggin jeans do they work at all?

Amidst all this discussion of gear please remember one simple truth:

The best gear in the world is the gear that you WEAR.



Some gear will look awesome in the store, but be a pain day in, day out. I also have heard a lot of trash on Joe Rocket gear, but mine held up well. It was a simple lowside (gravel) at about 40mph though, so your mileage may vary. It was also the only real leather padded jacket I could afford, and I wore it EVERYWHERE, which made it the best jacket in the world to me. Same with my knock-off brand gauntlet gloves. My wife was impressed and spent big bucks on some Alpinestar replacements. Don't skimp here, your hands will invariably be the first thing to hit the ground.

Lots of new riders buy things like armored pants and boots, and then never use them outside of a track. If you won't use it, invest the money elsewhere. I feel like a douche saying that, but be truthful with yourself...don't skimp $75 on a jacket when you could have had a Dianese only to drop $200 on some pants you never feel like slipping into. There are a few options in intermediate gear out there like Shift loose leather pants with padding, and the Draggin' jeans. In my experience folks use them just as often as they would full leathers. They sound like great ideas when you're ordering them, but I feel that if you're going to cover something, you might as well go all the way.

+1 on expensive helmets. Try on as many as possible. This can't be said enough. This is your main battle piece, and you should feel ready to step into the Coliseum when you slip the right one on. The expensive ones will do basically the same thing as far as protecting your brain, but do so much more in the way of comfort. This includes weight, noise, vision, and ease of removal on top of actual fit comfort which is usually far and away better with the nicer brands.

One option I've always told myself I'd look into is the famous Aerostitch suit. Folks swear by 'em...but I've never even seen one.

^ Good point about buying something and then not wearing it. I can see myself putting on the leather pants once and then just wearing jeans, boots, and the jacket and never touching the pants.

But in all seriousness, how comfortable/uncomfortable is that body armor? Or outside the track people dont normally wear it?

i think youl be ok for mild shit in a jacket and street clothes man. Hell ive nvr even worn gloves any time i went down and my hands still work fine. These guys spend more on gear everyyear than i spent on my bike probly. Not my idea of cost effective.

Yes I agree with Sam, it is a good point. Livable gear is important. That is why I do not recommend one-piece leathers for anything but racing. They are just too impractical for everyday use. Too hard to get in and out of, and very close fitting (hard to wear street clothes underneath). Get fully perforated leathers if you get them. You can always make them warmer in the cooler months by wearing a cheap vinyl rain suit over the outside, works great. Main point, like said before, the armor does no good if you are not wearing it.

If you have good fitting leathers that are designed to accommodate armor it is not bad at all. No worries. Most come with pockets that the armor slides into. I just remove the armor for the back that comes with the suit and use my separate back protector.

That used Vanson I bought did not come with good body armor, so I bought a separate set of good quality elbow, shoulder, and hip pads, and slipped them into the pockets in the suit. CE rated armor IIRC. They were like $100+ for the set IIRC but worth it. Another option is to buy one of those Mad Max looking armor suits and take all of the armor out of the leathers. Or just get leathers with good armor.

Sorry Magna but that is really bad advice IMO. How much you spend on armor has nothing to do with what the bike is worth. It has more to do with what you are worth. There is some pricey stuff out there, and some overpriced stuff. But there is some cheap crap too that does not work well at all. What you spend is up to you, but budget as much as you can afford, especially being a new rider. Saving one broken bone, or one case of road rash, or worse, is well worth the price of several hundred to $1000+ dollars of gear IMO. If you think that is a lot of money, wait until you see the hospital bill. I have crashed on the street once, and on the track three or four times including a pretty fast highside, and walked away from all of them. In all cases I was wearing full gear, and it saved me from significantly more pain for sure.

BTW that may seem like a lot of crashes, but my experience is pretty typical from what I have seen. Even the best riders crash for whatever reason, sometimes no fault of their own, especially on the street. One of my racing team mates was t-boned by a car on his way to work last year. It sent him to the hospital after he blacked out at the scene with a minor concussion, but he was OK otherwise. Actually, since he is an Aggie, the concussion does not make much difference ;). Anyway, it turns out his head hit a curb. If he had not had on a helmet (a good Shoei) he would most likely be a vegetable or be dead. His bike, a nice FJR, was totalled. He is a very experienced rider, at least 15+ years IIRC, careful on the street, and is a very good racer on the track, faster than me usually.

Just focus on quality, and not the bling-bling (helmet graphics, multicolored rider edition leathers, etc) and you will be OK. For example, just the money you save on a monotone helmet versus the same one with graphics will pay for the difference in cost for some good Sidi boots.

Crashing sucks, and it does happen, so be ready for it :)

I put some time into this response, but this is a very important topic so it is worth it.

I have not read any post except the first one.
So whos got one? me
What kind do you have? sv650
How long have you been riding, history behind it? 6months
One piece of wisdom you would like to pass on to a new rider? INVESTING RACE BOOTS, if i id i might not have drop foot from the impact killing my shin muscles.

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after i was t-boned (no blood just impound lot bike pic and some icu pics) aftermath pictures by jeff_man - Photobucket

^ Oh god that made my stomach hurt. What was the damage other then fubared leg and arm?

Wow you guys go crazy with gear. I wear a DOT and M rated Icon helmet which cost me $189, $20 leather joe rocket gauntlet gloves, a $200 joe rocket textile armored jacket, jeans, and usually steel toes boots, but nothing above the ankle. That's the one thing I wish I had, comfortable high top riding boots, that don't look like cowboy boots, military boots, or something out of Back To The Future, where they go forward to 2015. I've ridden in shorts once, not only did I know I was being unsafe, but it was incredibly uncomfortable. I've ridden without my jacket a few times in really hot weather, it feels great but I know it's fairly stupid. Oh well, at least I'm not bitching at you guys for not having seat belts, airbags, and abs like the new Goldwing.

I knew about the ABS and airbags, but you're kidding about the seatbelts, right?

Actually, ABS is becoming kind of widespread. BMWs have had it for a while (even the lowly G650) and a couple of Suzukis, including the SV and the hideous BurgerKing, have it as an option too.

Hideous? I love the b-king! It is way too huge for me, I can barely swing my legs over it's ass, but hot damn would I hump ride that everyday all day if given the chance.

I just checked and I'm wrong about the seat belts. How the hell do the airbags not just blow you off the bike? That thing is a 2-wheeled car, not a bike. It's toss up between what I think Honda will put on it next, seat belts or a roof.

I'm in 2 minds on all the leathers etc.

I know from my own experiences that if i'm wearing me full leathers and everything else i take more risks and tend to push it further.

Often in summer i'll ride with T-shirt, shorts and sandles, obviously if i have a off i'm foooooked.
But i tend to ride knowing that so ride a hell of a lot slower and a lot more defensively.

When ya made up like a power ranger, the process of putting on the kit and the knowledge that you've got leathers, back, shoulder, knee etc protection really goes some way to that "i'm invincible" feeling (till ya crash).

So my feeling is yes all the kit does offer more protection in some areas, but your also more likely to take risks and therefore crash wearing em.

Tough choice.

For me i'll just echo what's already been said.
Buy stuff that's well made (look at the sticking and seams, give it a good pull in the shop see if the stitching stretches) fits well and is comfortable.

On helmets more money tends to buy you lighter helmets with more ventilation, they're not really any safer.
The 3 rules of helmet selection are 1/ fit, 2/ fit, 3/ fit.

Never buy on-line, always try on as many helmets as possible from as many manufacturers as possible.
AGV's for example just do not suit my head shape.


Cheers
Mark

Ive been riding about 15 years and have had 8 bikes. 7 of them have been Hondas! I have NEVER had any problems out of ANY of my Hondas!! Change the oil and check the tires and ride em.


Last bike......07 600rr
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New bike/DD......07 1000rr Dyno'd at 146 HP
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If you are into caffe style bikes I think a 80's CB350 or CB500 would be a great starter bike. They are quick, handle well, easy to maintain, and have no plastic to tear up if your do drop it. The best part is with a little time and money you can have this!
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As for advice........Some of em go faster than they stop. lol

i'm a honda cycle fan myself, that cb is sweet but the tires and brakes scare me

01' Honda 929 RR here. My second bike.

I got into motorcycles with an SV650 - I swear, there are days I consider selling my 929 and getting another SV - they are that much fun. I love my 929.. it has very few and only minor faults and is IMO a very live-able litre bike unlike some of the newer ones, but there is just something awesome about how nimble and comfortable the SVs are, and riding a naked bike is just the tits. I highly recommend one for a starter bike - many go with the little 250, but I didn't b/c I didn't want to outgrow the bike too quickly, and the 650 is ergonomically good for a beginner and although it's not fast at all in the relative world of motorcycles, is really quite quick. First time I went wot on the SV, a smile was glued on my face...

I think I've found a good compromise though... I just pulled all the front plastics off my 929 and now have a naked bike again! :)

As for gear, if you get into any riding clubs and such, you will hear something referred to: ATGATT (All the gear all the time) - and a LOT of guys who ride that I know just don't get this but it's not about how aggressively you intend to ride your bike, or if you are just cruising a few miles, there are SO many variables out there that you have absolutely no control of when you are on a bike that could end your life or seriously change it, if you are not wearing all your protective gear. I wrecked my SV - I had a full face helmet, leather gloves, leather jacket, and motorcycle racing boots... and jeans. I couldn't walk for 2 days because of the road rash on my left leg, and limped for a month. The rest of my body was 100%. Asphalt cuts through denim so fast it is literally no better than wearing shorts. Get the proper gear and always always wear it.

-Ryan

I feel the same way when I snow board, the confidence is two fold when wearing padding and a helmet.

UNpossible to change them out for discs?

oh sure it is, just a bit of a project that's all....a cool one i've considered before , i'd change out the whole front fork assembly and at least a new rear wheel/tire/sprocket/brake assembly.

compound femur and the arm funny enough i cracked the weekend before playing paintball and didn't know about it, they rapped it up to inflate the bill :facepalm: