golftdibrad

The one on it does not work, and therefore sucks. Notice I called it a parking brake, because thats all it is. With two fully independent systems, there is not need for an e-brake.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

This is your Huckleberry.

http://www.chircoestore.com/catalog/...oducts_id=2113

golftdibrad

Thats what i was gonna do on the other kit car. Brake line routing on this does not lent to it easily. But in the future.... bigger fish to fry and all that right now.

golftdibrad

Been away a lot for work, so progress has been sporadic. I got the juts cut at the base to bump the compression and reduce deck height. was aiming for 0.050" and 9.5:1, got about 0.038" and 10.2:1. Decision was made to roll with it.
The engine went together pretty smoothly, but at one point i forgot a piston circlip, whoops. I had to pull that jug to fix it, but the sealant was still tacky so I put some more and rolled out. The tins fit the more stock width engine way better, but I did have to trim one just a little.



Complete engine ready to be stabbed!



My god dont forget this!

So being a real smart guy, when pulling it the bolts for the mounts were a royal PITA to back up with a wrench, so I tack welded them in. The engine mount has to be clearanced to fit the now fixed in space bolts.



Nothing an cutoff wheel and a dremel cant do.

I got it all back together and started it. The power connections have always been crap, and it was having trouble spinning it over. Yesterday on the way home I also had an epiphany; i never kicked the clutch to center things up. So I loosened all the bolts, kicked the clutch and now it has plenty of ommph. At some point I stripped the hole in the block for the starter too so I had to back it up with a thin nut and through bolt.

Today I got it running better, starting by itself, and the timing set. The carbs need to be rebalanced and the idle tuned, but it runs, revs free, and sounds MEAN. No pinging yet either free revving it hard.

I was hoping to be driving today, but the axles are still giving me hell. the 100mm cv's I got are too thick for the 914 axle. They are EMPI high strength high flex units. (E98-5084-B) They are too thick to put the circlip on. So I need regular units if they are thinner, or maybe a different axle shaft? Suggestions welcome. Good news is the aero CV boots clears the shock even at full droop, something even the 914 setup did not do.

So, I'm very close. Just need to get the axle problem solved for good and I'll be driving again. I could put the old setup in, but seems kinda pointless to undo what I've done so far.

-Brad

golftdibrad

Axles found to correct the issue, ordered.

Soon...very soon.

golftdibrad

So I got my new axles.



shinny. I went to put them together and the place sent me load washers for freaking 90mm cv's. In the pounding i messed up some hardware. and they didnt send me enough hardware. I am miffed. I used standard lock washers for now and thank god driving vw's for years yielded just enough bolts to make this happen. Even if they were the newer torque to yield kind.



Took way too long and lots of cursing and hammering later but they are in. I should have run a tap through the holes first.

So.... first drive. Fired right up, shifter was aligned, time to do this. It still needs tuning/balancing but it is WAY stronger. Face melting stronger. After a few spins around the block I parked it to check for bolts/leaks/etc. And to set up the display to read the head temp sensor.

I then refired it and it started pinging on one cylinder REALLY bad, like i could not even touch the throttle.

Today i took it for a spin to see if it still did it, and it seems better, but still a light ping at high rpm. I'll back the timing off a bit. Its really quick now!

Went to the Ludachris concert last night, fo free. Worked hard and played hard.

golftdibrad

sale
http://www.directharleyparts.com/ele..._133_1485.html

got it, with the fancy charger. under 300 shipped.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Better go ahead and do it!

golftdibrad

I did Just need some colder plugs and to balance the carbs and tune to get her closer to 100%. And to see if I need to start mixing my own fuel....

golftdibrad

ordering the jet kit and colder plugs tomorrow....

mgeoffriau

iTrader: (7)

Haha....1:17 spooked me for a second.

golftdibrad

Guys i need some help, I'm drawing a blank on how to make a throttle stop. I have significant manufacturing capability, and would like a no welding on frame solution. Any ideas would help.





Thanks,
-Brad

triple88a

iTrader: (2)

A simple flat bracket behind it? I dont know how much travel you want but a piece of metal behind on the other side of the green bar? Nice and simple?

golftdibrad

That aluminum plate is kinda flimsy. BUT the guy that built it is using ti on the newer cars for a throttle stop... I'm gonna try that.

vehicular

iTrader: (3)

Can you pull the pedal off and either make a little bracket to sandwich between the pedal and the hanger or drill two holes in the hanger horizontal to the long axis of the car to bolt a bracket to? You just need a simple plate with a threaded hole to thread an adjustable stop/ a bolt with a lock nut into.

golftdibrad

I like that idea.

curly

iTrader: (25)

Angle iron under the throttle pedal bracket? Or if you're not worried about the strength of that green bar, bolt a piece of L bracket to the side of it, and use a bolt in the other leg of the L to adjust your stop.

golftdibrad

over the several MB's I posted on, this seems to be the winning consensus.

golftdibrad

Got alot done today. First up, the koso temp sensor died from what i expect were out of its range. So i found another thermistor that had the same curve (i measured using the one I still had) that had a higher max temp. I took this guy (0.80 each at digikey, 6141019-nd) and stuck in in a drilled out Porsche head temp sensor and jb welded it in there. FYI, jb weld is a electrical insulator, and reasonably good thermal conductor.



Result is that this thing is near impossible to install. I managed by modding a 1/2 wrench.

Next was the throttle stop solution and new, hopefully stiffer, throttle pedal.




Also readjusted the action and stuff.

Put in my NGK's that are a few ranges colder than the ones that were in there.

Next I changed jets and air jets. went to 145 and 190 from 135 and 175.

Drove the car, still seems a little lean in the midrange, (lots of poping and what not off throttle, BUT less of it than before) but it seems WAY happier, and more power from the but dyno. Now its very cool out today (70) but no pinging, head temps were lower (never saw past 300) so these are all good things. I know that I'll have to stay on top of the tuning with this thing.

About ready to put the nose back on and declare it 'done'. For now at least.

-Brad

legun01

pretty sure I need one of those...