everything comes down to beading
with cars and toys and everything

 

Mmmmmm beading.

 

How about the part where the thread is about worm drive clamps being better. I said, is bogusbogus, from enough experience in my field to not be talking out of my ***.

 

Please show your work.

 

I've used worm and t-bolt clamps, often alongside one another for the same task. The worm gears fail in various ways that the t-bolts don't. That isn't to say a hose on an unbeaded pipe with tbolts won't come off eventually, but it will take longer and even with proper beads, the tbolts last a lot longer (in terms of years and loosen-tighten cycles).

Yes yes I know anecdotes aren't hard data, but my experience has been more in favor of tbolts. In my opinion it comes down to the worm clamp putting all its load on the grooves of the flat portion and the edge of the threads of the bolt. On a t-bolt, the force is distributed over a much wider area. I've seen worm gears fail at those load points (the grooves on the metal ribbon) on a whole bunch of occasions so data.

If worm gears incorporated a bolt into the tensioning mechanism I'd be much more in favor of them. The problem is that once you design a proper worm gear with a bolt to hold the screws of the worm drive.... you have a t bolt clamp.

 

Are we talking about effectiveness or ability to withstand multiple cycles?

The article is about one. Not the other.

 

IC things should not change temp much, but for things that do, spring clamps are hard to beat (install and keeps clamping in changing temps after 20 years).

Removing at the reroute at the back of the head is a nightmare of course....

 

<p>Once again. Thread title should be changed to &quot;worm drive clamps are better at this one specific thing that I didn't know they were better at and I thought you guys would want to know because i've read different on the forum&quot;</p><p>Mod plz.</p>

 

Yes the beading is what keeps the hoses together at high pressure. The force of the hose trying to push away from the pipe no longer relies on friction between the two surfaces supplied by the clamp. Now when the hose tries to slide off, the diameter change causes the coupler to stretch, but the clamp resist this, so the pressure/friction shoots up until it stops moving, or until the clamp breaks.

 

LOL

so how about some actual info then?

 

Well one of our long time customers is Lockheed Martin, over 65 units we service... All you need for proof, is hold one of each in your hand. It's obvious which is superior. There is no benefit of using a worm drive other than budget or confined space maybe. Though the only way you save enough is buying the cheap Chinese clamps from, say ace or home dip ****. I have never broken a t-bolt clamp, not even 30 year old clamps off military equipment. I have lost count of the number of fatigued, broken, won't fully tighten worm drive clamps.

 

chevy should use that argument to sell their 4000lb camaros
LOOK HOW MUCH MORE WEIGHT YOU GET FOR THE MONEY

I mean........c'mon.

The question here is ability to hold down a clamp effectively. People are saying a worm clamp can do it just fine if it's a quality clamp and the tube/coupler are proper, you're saying it's bogus. When called on it, you're saying "well it's lighter, and most use the cheap ones, so........"

I'm not completely disputing your opinion ( I happen to still want to use t-bolts because they're actually cheaper than quality worm clamps) but it's just a prefrence due to being cheap

 

The point here is - you don't need fifty billion footpounds of clamping force to hold together an intercooler setup. Effective beading, proper couplers, and proper worm clamps work just fine. dozens of seriously high boost and high power applications from reputable companies confirms this.

I used to agree with you, until I was proven wrong, just for the record.

 

<p>All that is being said is that they seal better with silicone tubing on aluminum intake tubes.</p>

 

Worm gear clamps disrespected my family.

 

<p>T-bolt clamps hold on condoms better than worm gear clamps.</p>

 

Agreed with the real world experience of failed work drive clamps. I'm bad about overtightening things, and I've overtightend t-bolts and they don't break, I've stripped several worm clamps from overtightening. Now this is admiting that I ACTUALLY caused the failure, but sitll, the t-bolt was more robust to my overtightening no doubt.

I was shopping for Otikier clamps a while back, and found some company that makes a clamp that's makes a hose clamp with a slick inside sleeve so it doesn't damage the soft hose it's clamping as a traditional worm drive clamp does. Some of the benefit of a T-bolt without any of the downsides I would think.

Still, end of the day I'm still using t-bolts. But I have unbeaded steel pipes. So I am relying on friction only, and I can pinch the crap out of a T-bolt and it won't leak, and won't slip. Once my new IC setup is tested I'm going to remove and bead all my pipes fore reliability though.

 

It's hard to disagree against someone that makes up things. Where did I say t-bolt clamps were lighter? First off, I know worm drive clamps are lighter weight. Secondly most worm drive clamps are steel, coated with some anti-corrosion Nickle or such. Whereas almost all, at least quality brand t bolt clamps are pure stainless with some brands have in the exception of the nylon lock nut being zinc or something. I was under the impression that the thread was about one clamp being better than the other and the link was more explaining why one clamp is better for silicone hose. The only way that would be true is if you were using smooth inner band worm drive clamps. Most people don't use those they just buy what you can get at the hardware store. I really thought most of you we're all about reliability so that's why I chimed in, but I don't want to get banned so I'll just keep my experience to myself

 

I put T-bolts on my intake on my car.

 

<p>I put t-bolts on my coolant hoses.</p>