Would you own a FD rx-7 (rotary powered) ? - Page 7 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 08-07-2013, 03:49 PM   #121
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I wouldn't avoid a Gen1A, just be aware that i might not be able to help you as much as if you had a Gen1B when it comes to sensors/electrical things if they were to ever go bad.

Gen1As are definitely more common. By the time 1990 rolled around, these cars were very expensive compared to the competition and not many sold/were made anymore.


They aren't money pits, especially if you have half a brain. I've had mine as my daily driver for 4 years, it's one of the fastest examples in North America, i get 40mpg on the highway, it's never stranded me, and i have less than $2k into it including purchase price.

If you can manage to make one of these into a money pit, then you're really great at squandering money.


As far as it never being able to hang with the Miata in the twisties... the answer is "Depends." They'll handle far better than you'd think. It'll never FEEL as good, and you'll be wrestling it, but i like that sort of thing.


You can make a honda go around a track as fast as just about anything, but it still does not "handle" as good as a proper 50/50 rwd sports car. I'd rather have a 200whp well balanced proper sports car than a 300whp FWD turd. But i live in an area that is all mountain roads and tiny backroads. On the highway or a commuting car I may feel different.

For a DD, even my integra is "fun" and could be made to handle great. I assume the mx6 would be similar. What do those things weigh?

Thanks for all the info man, I'm going to seriously consider getting rid of my honda for one. I can sell the honda for more than it's really worth (honda tax ftw) and buy a clean example pretty easily. It would be really fun to have a reliable 200whp on my DD, and I really think they look pretty awesome too.
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Old 08-07-2013, 03:56 PM   #122
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I guess that's the difference. I measure performance with numbers, and don't care how the numbers are achieved. FWD, AWD, RWD, YourMomWD, whatever. Fast is fast. My MX6 is faster around a corner than my Miata. Ergo: Handles better.

Given a 200whp Miata and a 300whp turdbox FWD car... **** it. We'll use my own cars as an example.

Given a 240-250whp Miata and a ~350whp turdbox MX6 for some fun backroad shenanigans, i'll just take the faster car.

I've gotten some pretty big backlash over the years concerning these MX6s and how i do things with them vs how other people do them. I prefer to play to strengths rather than fight weaknesses. Some people have a very deep-rooted issue with that.

My MX6 weighs just under 2600lbs. They aren't lightweights, but aren't pigs, either. They're built like vaults, everything is overbuilt and heavy. Your average daily driver with a full interior and working everything will be in the 2700-2800 range. They don't feel that heavy, and i doubt it'll be disappointing coming from an Integra.


I'll spam you with any leads i find on nice ones in your general area.
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Old 08-07-2013, 04:14 PM   #123
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I guess that's the difference. I measure performance with numbers, and don't care how the numbers are achieved. FWD, AWD, RWD, YourMomWD, whatever. Fast is fast. My MX6 is faster around a corner than my Miata. Ergo: Handles better.

Given a 200whp Miata and a 300whp turdbox FWD car... **** it. We'll use my own cars as an example.

Given a 240-250whp Miata and a ~350whp turdbox MX6 for some fun backroad shenanigans, i'll just take the faster car.

I've gotten some pretty big backlash over the years concerning these MX6s and how i do things with them vs how other people do them. I prefer to play to strengths rather than fight weaknesses. Some people have a very deep-rooted issue with that.

My MX6 weighs just under 2600lbs. They aren't lightweights, but aren't pigs, either. They're built like vaults, everything is overbuilt and heavy. Your average daily driver with a full interior and working everything will be in the 2700-2800 range. They don't feel that heavy, and i doubt it'll be disappointing coming from an Integra.


I'll spam you with any leads i find on nice ones in your general area.
Understood, that is a reasonable argument too. It's all personal preference beyond performance numbers. I didn't build my miata for performance numbers, just for pleasure. And it delivers.

Please DO spam me with any good deals you see. I'd be willing to make a trip for the right price.

The honda is ~2700lbs, so likely not much different there. I have no doubts they can handle well, too. I'd probably keep it mostly stock suspension, or if i were to upgrade it would be for comfort and not raw performance. i like my DD's to be nice, comfortable, with a/c, powersteering, good stereo, etc.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:05 PM   #124
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This thread has gone from bad to worse.

I feel like you may as well start hunting for a '90 Talon TSi AWD.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:09 PM   #125
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This thread has gone from bad to worse.

I feel like you may as well start hunting for a '90 Talon TSi AWD.
Yo, give me that.
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Old 08-07-2013, 05:15 PM   #126
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Yes, without a second thought.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:10 PM   #127
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Am I the only person that loves me some rotary? I mean, as a DD, hell no, but as a weekend track car or street car, YES. Sure, they have a **** ton of issues and you really need to know how to take care of them plus finding a good builder for the motors, but the powerband is nuts. I'll own one someday, and I'll never LSx swap. Get the motor sorted out, and be happy.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:28 PM   #128
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Am I the only person that loves me some rotary? I mean, as a DD, hell no, but as a weekend track car or street car, YES. Sure, they have a **** ton of issues and you really need to know how to take care of them plus finding a good builder for the motors, but the powerband is nuts. I'll own one someday, and I'll never LSx swap. Get the motor sorted out, and be happy.
Yes, this is totally doable if the rotary is NA. I'd totally rock a three rotor NA, even in a daily car and expect it to be dead nuts reliable. The formula Mazda guys can go several seasons without a rebuild. It's when you add boost and try to make it fun that it sucks. If you had something small and light enough that a two rotor NA would do the job, more power to you. Only trouble is, a built NA rotary is a thirsty beast, expect mileage in the low teens at best which makes it a poor candidate for daily use but tons of reliable (and fairly cheap) fun on the track.
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Old 08-08-2013, 12:39 PM   #129
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This thread illustrates that there's a right and wrong way to do everything, and as usual, most people are fixated on the wrong way and the results it gives.
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:26 PM   #130
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This thread illustrates that there's a right and wrong way to do everything, and as usual, most people are fixated on the wrong way and the results it gives.
This is what I don't understand with most people. If you can't afford to do something right, then don't do it. OR, be smart with your money and save! I'm 18 years old and I am able to afford a $15,000 car plus having the cash to race it and do mods, but I understand that it all comes with time and discipline.
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:35 PM   #131
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This is what I don't understand with most people. If you can't afford to do something right, then don't do it. OR, be smart with your money and save! I'm 18 years old and I am able to afford a $15,000 car plus having the cash to race it and do mods, but I understand that it all comes with time and discipline.
How did you save 15k by 18? Genuinely curious.
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Old 08-08-2013, 01:40 PM   #132
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If i had SAVED $15,000 by 18... that would have meant that i cleared more than that after bills and **** were paid in a 2 year timespan.... I would STILL be working that same job if that were the case... lmao

I guess its doable if there were no other bills...
Its only $7500 per year, assuming only having worked since 16
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:23 PM   #133
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you guys are assuming he bought the car outright... this was a bad assumption on your parts.


shame.


being able to afford a $15,000 car means he's able to spend $200 a month on a payment.
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:32 PM   #134
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you guys are assuming he bought the car outright... this was a bad assumption on your parts.


shame.


being able to afford a $15,000 car means he's able to spend $200 a month on a payment.
Thats what i did... i was 18, and bought a $34,000 Mini Cooper JCW...
I worked 1 full time and 2 part time jobs... Not that it made it any less Irresponsible.

BUT... he said he SAVED the money. Maybe he meant downpayment though... idk
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:43 PM   #135
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How did you save 15k by 18? Genuinely curious.
Worked hard and got a good job (combination of kissing *** and work ethic), started car pooling to work and back, and didn't spend unnecessarily. I'm not buying the car outright. $4200 down, and because I'm 18 and have no credit, plus it's an 8 year old car, my loan sucks. 48 month at 13%. Expecting to pay $350-360 a month and insurance is gonna be around $150. Good for a teenager actually for full coverage (flawless driving record so far, knock on wood). Gonna try to refinance a year or two from now, to get a lower interest rate. Part of my reasoning for getting this MSM was to build credit early, so I didn't want to save and buy it straight up with cash.
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:45 PM   #136
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My advice: buy a $500 car and spend the rest on hookers and blow. being tied down to a car payment this young and in this **** economy is a dumb idea. You're lucky you can be a hard worker...


13%. rofl.
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Old 08-08-2013, 02:53 PM   #137
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My advice: buy a $500 car and spend the rest on hookers and blow. being tied down to a car payment this young and in this **** economy is a dumb idea. You're lucky you can be a hard worker...


13%. rofl.
The economy is fine doing what I do. I'm a photographer at (currently, they may shuffle me around again) Lone Star Chevy here in Houston. I'm a subcontractor, and the company I work for is growing quickly now. I'm secure in this job, and plan to keep it for the next five years or so. Still have a year of high school left, and then 4 years of college. After that, who knows. I'm hoping that I'll be in a management point somewhere down the road and then maybe I'll move to Colorado if all goes well and try to move along with actual photography (it's what I'll be majoring in). Even with that ridiculous payment, I'm still good on money, and I'm going to throw more than that monthly when I feel like it.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:03 PM   #138
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In-before-older-guys-try-to-give-Ethan-a-bunch-of-sound-financial-advice-earned-through-the-mistakes-they-made-themselves-and-then-Ethan-ignores-all-of-it-because-he-is-convinced-he's-got-it-figured-out.

I.E. he is going to do what many of us did when we were 18.
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:06 PM   #139
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In-before-older-guys-try-to-give-Ethan-a-bunch-of-sound-financial-advice-earned-through-the-mistakes-they-made-themselves-and-then-Ethan-ignores-all-of-it-because-he-is-convinced-he's-got-it-figured-out.

I.E. he is going to do what many of us did when we were 18.
hahaha... W-I-N......

we all learn eventually i spose... lol
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Old 08-08-2013, 03:12 PM   #140
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The economy is fine doing what I do. I'm a photographer at (currently, they may shuffle me around again) Lone Star Chevy here in Houston. I'm a subcontractor, and the company I work for is growing quickly now. I'm secure in this job, and plan to keep it for the next five years or so. Still have a year of high school left, and then 4 years of college. After that, who knows. I'm hoping that I'll be in a management point somewhere down the road and then maybe I'll move to Colorado if all goes well and try to move along with actual photography (it's what I'll be majoring in). Even with that ridiculous payment, I'm still good on money, and I'm going to throw more than that monthly when I feel like it.
The words "steady job", "photographer", and "contractor" should never be used together. I hope for the best for you, but every photographer I've known has had a pretty interesting job history.

Don't get yourself in a tight spot. You are 18, you don't need a 15k dollar car.

Actually, ignore what I just said and get a FD rx7
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