Yet Another Gun Thread
03-23-2013, 08:48 PM
#3681
And since it's been mentioned recently... anybody who frequents this forum who doesn't have their CCW better have a good ******* reason.
Also, anybody who frequents this forum who isn't a member of the NRA can't complain when the come knocking on your door in a few years to confiscate your Ruger 10/22 that's just been labeled as an Assault Automatic Sniper Weapon System by some liberal asshat.
Just sayin.
Also, anybody who frequents this forum who isn't a member of the NRA can't complain when the come knocking on your door in a few years to confiscate your Ruger 10/22 that's just been labeled as an Assault Automatic Sniper Weapon System by some liberal asshat.
Just sayin.
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03-24-2013, 01:35 AM
#3685
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Started snowing again today. I need to finish my house and sell it already, this not having a garage thing Sucks.
Got a goody package from Midway today...
Received my 300 AAC Blackout dies, a 223 Rem Collet neck sizing die, an autodisk rifle Charging die, a new Pistol decapper since a berdan primed case made my 9mm decapping pin esssplode, a case colliator for my Lee Pro1000 press (always wanted one of these!) an ar15 disconnector and spring for a friend to replace his FCG with DPMS parts in his plumb crazy lower, and a UTG Accurizing Wedge (which I had to remove about 1mm from the bottom of and it still took he-man to 'close' the rifle back up. Good thing because that upper and lower were really sloppy! One good thing to say about the poly lower, it was a good tight fit without being retardedly tight.
300 AAC Blackout dies:
Let the fun begin! 1 down, 999 left to go. Seriously thinking about doing this in my pro1000, I'm just afraid the primer mandrel might damage, dent or mark up the primers. Put some RCBS case lube on a towel and rolled the case around then sized it up no problem. Was told it was best to full length resize the case before trimming it down to proper length so we'll have to see. My 300AAC upper has yet to ship, however my friends came in so we'll trim one and check for fitment in his rifle before proceeding I suppose.
223 Collet neck sizing die:
I have a scheme for this, follow along with me for a minute. To reload rifle brass the proper procedure is something along the following:
Jesus that's a lot. Did I lose anyone? Good. Items marked in bold I'm trying to remove from the process and this is how it goes. Replace the full length resize and decapping with a NECK resize and decap. That removes the primer and sizes only the neck of the round, which should prevent the case from changing length after sizing it a ton of times. This is usually an accepted practice if you're firing a bolt action or a single shot like my H&R1871 rifle and that's all good and dandy.. I believe the concept / theory behind this is brass fired from one specific rifle that haven't been resized should still have a good snug fit and allegedly makes that round potentially more accurate. Great, but what if you did try this on an autoloader even though they don't recommend it? Brass casings I've fired through my DPMS rifle still fit in the chamber perfectly, and just so happens I have a bag full of spent casings from that rifle that I fully intend to try this procedure on and will report back. This could potentially save me a TON of work, or, it might not. Time will tell.
7.62x54r 3 die set:
Never mentioned receiving these dies in my midway order, that's because I didn't in this order. Those came about 2 years ago when I first bought the Mosin Nagant and well, life got in the way. Now that I have free time (HAHA!) we're finally getting around to making some progress. Found a guy on Reddit that was selling some 7.62x54r brass (about 38 pieces) for $7.00 shipped so I jumped on it.
Believe it's even russian! Wouldn't you know it? Berdan primed. ****. Did some research and found out that's okay! There are several things you can do: Decap the berdan cases and install berdan primers which SUCKS, Decap the berdan cases and adapt in large rifle primers by swaging some copper into the primer pocket and removing the anvil on the primer before installing it, or decapping the berdan cases and swaging in copper for large rifle primers but drilling out a flash hole and leaving the primer's anvil installed. How the hell do you remove those primers anyway? There isn't a neat little hole a hardened steel pin can protrude through.... It's simple! (BULLSHIT!)
Here is a quick video to show you this process:
I tried the hydraulic decapping method, and after spending a freaking HOUR I only managed to get 7 cases decapped. This **** might be a little more trouble than it's worth considering last time I saw any, Prvi 7.62x54r boxer primed brass was about a dollar a round . . . I don't need more than maybe 30 or 40 rounds at most! I plan on converting the cases to boxer primed.....
So my intention is to reload them with some various rounds, mostly for something hunting or other special purpose but was mostly interested in casting my own lead from the 17 tons of lead wheel weights I've collected for years. Bought some 150gr spitzer Sierra's a couple years ago for a Brit .303/7.7jap (they measure out to .310") but never did "slug the bore" of my Mosin Nagant, so honestly I've really no idea what bullet should be used in the rifle. Slugged it tonight:
Went to Walmart and bought some "1/8th inch" fishing weights and measured the OD which was roughly 0.316" in diameter so I threw a little grease on and tapped it into the muzzle of my rifle. Using several 6" pieces of wooden dowl I hammered it down until the slug came out the breach of the rifle and ready to measure. How convient, it's stuck on the end of the very first dowl. Good news is it measures at 0.311" so we're in the area I want to be at! Perfect! Think I might try and reload some steel casings too for ***** and grins...
Now if my parts would show up from RCBS for my universal hand primer I'd be in business to make some freaking b00litz!
Not related to guns I also bought a new garage door opener, new 40 gallon electric water heater, some fluorescent lights for my utility room and garage and did a bunch of plumbing. Ready to sell this damn house... Hope someone enjoyed my story.
Got a goody package from Midway today...
Received my 300 AAC Blackout dies, a 223 Rem Collet neck sizing die, an autodisk rifle Charging die, a new Pistol decapper since a berdan primed case made my 9mm decapping pin esssplode, a case colliator for my Lee Pro1000 press (always wanted one of these!) an ar15 disconnector and spring for a friend to replace his FCG with DPMS parts in his plumb crazy lower, and a UTG Accurizing Wedge (which I had to remove about 1mm from the bottom of and it still took he-man to 'close' the rifle back up. Good thing because that upper and lower were really sloppy! One good thing to say about the poly lower, it was a good tight fit without being retardedly tight.
300 AAC Blackout dies:
Let the fun begin! 1 down, 999 left to go. Seriously thinking about doing this in my pro1000, I'm just afraid the primer mandrel might damage, dent or mark up the primers. Put some RCBS case lube on a towel and rolled the case around then sized it up no problem. Was told it was best to full length resize the case before trimming it down to proper length so we'll have to see. My 300AAC upper has yet to ship, however my friends came in so we'll trim one and check for fitment in his rifle before proceeding I suppose.
223 Collet neck sizing die:
I have a scheme for this, follow along with me for a minute. To reload rifle brass the proper procedure is something along the following:
- Tumble clean brass
- Lubricate and full length resize/decap cases
- Trim to length, deburr/chamfer case mouth
- Tumble clean brass
- Install Primer
- Charge the round with powder
- Seat bullet
- *Optional- crimp bullet
Jesus that's a lot. Did I lose anyone? Good. Items marked in bold I'm trying to remove from the process and this is how it goes. Replace the full length resize and decapping with a NECK resize and decap. That removes the primer and sizes only the neck of the round, which should prevent the case from changing length after sizing it a ton of times. This is usually an accepted practice if you're firing a bolt action or a single shot like my H&R1871 rifle and that's all good and dandy.. I believe the concept / theory behind this is brass fired from one specific rifle that haven't been resized should still have a good snug fit and allegedly makes that round potentially more accurate. Great, but what if you did try this on an autoloader even though they don't recommend it? Brass casings I've fired through my DPMS rifle still fit in the chamber perfectly, and just so happens I have a bag full of spent casings from that rifle that I fully intend to try this procedure on and will report back. This could potentially save me a TON of work, or, it might not. Time will tell.
7.62x54r 3 die set:
Never mentioned receiving these dies in my midway order, that's because I didn't in this order. Those came about 2 years ago when I first bought the Mosin Nagant and well, life got in the way. Now that I have free time (HAHA!) we're finally getting around to making some progress. Found a guy on Reddit that was selling some 7.62x54r brass (about 38 pieces) for $7.00 shipped so I jumped on it.
Believe it's even russian! Wouldn't you know it? Berdan primed. ****. Did some research and found out that's okay! There are several things you can do: Decap the berdan cases and install berdan primers which SUCKS, Decap the berdan cases and adapt in large rifle primers by swaging some copper into the primer pocket and removing the anvil on the primer before installing it, or decapping the berdan cases and swaging in copper for large rifle primers but drilling out a flash hole and leaving the primer's anvil installed. How the hell do you remove those primers anyway? There isn't a neat little hole a hardened steel pin can protrude through.... It's simple! (BULLSHIT!)
Here is a quick video to show you this process:
I tried the hydraulic decapping method, and after spending a freaking HOUR I only managed to get 7 cases decapped. This **** might be a little more trouble than it's worth considering last time I saw any, Prvi 7.62x54r boxer primed brass was about a dollar a round . . . I don't need more than maybe 30 or 40 rounds at most! I plan on converting the cases to boxer primed.....
So my intention is to reload them with some various rounds, mostly for something hunting or other special purpose but was mostly interested in casting my own lead from the 17 tons of lead wheel weights I've collected for years. Bought some 150gr spitzer Sierra's a couple years ago for a Brit .303/7.7jap (they measure out to .310") but never did "slug the bore" of my Mosin Nagant, so honestly I've really no idea what bullet should be used in the rifle. Slugged it tonight:
Went to Walmart and bought some "1/8th inch" fishing weights and measured the OD which was roughly 0.316" in diameter so I threw a little grease on and tapped it into the muzzle of my rifle. Using several 6" pieces of wooden dowl I hammered it down until the slug came out the breach of the rifle and ready to measure. How convient, it's stuck on the end of the very first dowl. Good news is it measures at 0.311" so we're in the area I want to be at! Perfect! Think I might try and reload some steel casings too for ***** and grins...
Now if my parts would show up from RCBS for my universal hand primer I'd be in business to make some freaking b00litz!
Not related to guns I also bought a new garage door opener, new 40 gallon electric water heater, some fluorescent lights for my utility room and garage and did a bunch of plumbing. Ready to sell this damn house... Hope someone enjoyed my story.
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03-25-2013, 01:53 PM
#3689
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Wow, Palmetto State Armory hsa a BUNCH of stuff in stock right now. Stripped lowers (AL and Poly), 2-3 different uppers, lower BUILD kits (LPK, stock, buffer, etc) and ammo.
Perhaps this means things are getting better?
Perhaps this means things are getting better?
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03-25-2013, 04:09 PM
#3690
I was able to get .40 S&W, 9mm, .22LR, 327 Fed. Mag., 380 Auto, and 5.56 without purchase limits at one local shop in one trip.
I am starting to think we are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel of fear.
Wife however wasnt very happy I spent 300 bucks that day. I couldnt contain myself.
I am starting to think we are seeing the light at the end of the tunnel of fear.
Wife however wasnt very happy I spent 300 bucks that day. I couldnt contain myself.
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03-26-2013, 11:46 AM
#3693
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Tell me about it. :(
Thankfully I can still get all the 7.62x39 that I want from Cabela's (up to 10 boxes a visit, anyway . . .) for a reasonable price at approx $0.34/rd as of my last visit.
Edit: Forgot the link: Gunbot.net
Last edited by elesjuan; 03-26-2013 at 12:27 PM.
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03-26-2013, 12:29 PM
#3694
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When I bought my first SKS, 7.62x39 was less than 7 cents a round. Non-corrosive, coated steel cases, FMJ. That was in full case quantities, 1250 rounds IIRC.
Okay, so that was a while back. I can see prices rising, but more than 5x the price in 12-15 years?
Okay, so that was a while back. I can see prices rising, but more than 5x the price in 12-15 years?
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03-26-2013, 01:59 PM
#3695
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Isn't it crazy? Have you seen the pre-hysteria price of 7.62x54r? It was up to $0.30/rd and over a dollar a round now for combloc surplus!!!!
Da fuq happened?! When I bought my AK parts kit back in '10 ammo was about the same price then, just wish I had bought some magazines while they were around $10 each for milsurplus steel. Have a bad feeling just like the price of gas it'll never go back down. :(
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03-31-2013, 02:27 PM
#3697
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Christ, FINALLY: DPMS Lower Parts Kit - Bagged - Kits - Upper and Lower Parts - AR Parts - Element Arms $64.95
At least DPMS is a known quantity
At least DPMS is a known quantity
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03-31-2013, 03:50 PM
#3698
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My parts finally arrived from RCBS yesterday. New part on the left, originally shipped part on the right:
Yeah, that's why it wouldn't freaking work... How the hell did something like that happen anyway?? For reference:
Part marked with the red arrow is what you're looking at. Can report now that it's assembled with the correct spec parts, it works great.. Now I can finally load up some of my .223 brass that's processed!
Yeah, that's why it wouldn't freaking work... How the hell did something like that happen anyway?? For reference:
Part marked with the red arrow is what you're looking at. Can report now that it's assembled with the correct spec parts, it works great.. Now I can finally load up some of my .223 brass that's processed!
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04-01-2013, 11:52 PM
#3700
The FN 350-400 rounds later. Consistent shot placement no matter what ammo, FMJ or HP. With Gold Dot 180gr HP being the most accurate of all. Reasonably priced if you get the LE boxes too.
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