Yet Another Gun Thread
10-18-2011, 02:45 PM
#845
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10-18-2011, 07:50 PM
#847
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I have some steel parts (not gun parts) that I want to blue. Recommend to me a decent cold bluing product. Anyone use any of these, and what did you think? I'm looking for a uniform blue color; not necessarily the absolute darkest, but just even.
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10-19-2011, 10:50 AM
#848
I've never done it before, but this doesn't look bad for $17:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/897...-blue-2-oz-kit
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/897...-blue-2-oz-kit
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10-20-2011, 02:58 PM
#852
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That is an Adams 7.5" pistol upper, which is a little short of what I'm looking for. For the purpose of this pistol/rifle I don't give a flying **** about ballistics, I'm not going to be making 1000 yard or even 100 yard shots with it -- A 10.5" barrel will work perfectly fine. My last trip to the range I was shooting a Thompson contender pistol in .30/30 with what, a 10" barrel? Worked fine for me! Mostly I'm looking for a toy first, something I could murder squirrels with second, and a last resort defense firearm lastly.. Furthest thing from my mind is a range gun, considering I already have a 20" bull and 16" A1 AR.
Yeah, the tan furniture, silly *** sight, and flashlight made that gun look pretty gay. That crap can come off easily, however.
No. I didn't buy it. If he were selling the 11.5" barrel he has I'd have been all over it since I already have a paper'd pistol lower.
Yeah, the tan furniture, silly *** sight, and flashlight made that gun look pretty gay. That crap can come off easily, however.
No. I didn't buy it. If he were selling the 11.5" barrel he has I'd have been all over it since I already have a paper'd pistol lower.
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10-20-2011, 03:17 PM
#853
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Hey Pushy, you seem to have a pretty good handle on the M1A thing, care to comment?
This year I'd like to pick up a Springfield M1A but getting one over here is quite a trick. What's the REAL skinny on the M1A? Assuming factory ammo, what kind of practical accuracy difference would you see between a Standard, Loaded, National Match and Super Match? Where is the features vs cost price break? What features are must-have and what can I do without? This will be my first and probably only M1A, so I'd prefer not to get a bottom of the barrel Standard/Basic model, but to the other extreme, I don't want mall ninja railz all over the place, so no SOCOMII for me. I want reliability, accuracy and longevity. I'd prefer a wood stock purely for aesthetics. <snip> blah blah blah... </snip>
What say you?
What say you?
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10-20-2011, 06:03 PM
#854
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I've never done it before, but this doesn't look bad for $17:
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/897...-blue-2-oz-kit
http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/897...-blue-2-oz-kit
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10-20-2011, 11:24 PM
#855
This year I'd like to pick up a Springfield M1A but getting one over here is quite a trick. What's the REAL skinny on the M1A? Assuming factory ammo, what kind of practical accuracy difference would you see between a Standard, Loaded, National Match and Super Match? Where is the features vs cost price break? What features are must-have and what can I do without? This will be my first and probably only M1A, so I'd prefer not to get a bottom of the barrel Standard/Basic model, but to the other extreme, I don't want mall ninja railz all over the place, so no SOCOMII for me. I want reliability, accuracy and longevity. I'd prefer a wood stock purely for aesthetics. <snip> blah blah blah... </snip>
What say you?
What say you?
Buy the National Match. The Super Match is a great rifle but my old man was able to shoot a sub-moa group (believe it or not, he did it once) with his National Match.* He used to shoot his National Match over his M25 White Feather (not sure if these are still in production) if that's any indication. Both the Super Match and National Match have glass bedded stocks, NM sights, the same gas system, trigger, etc. but the Super Match typically has a heavier barrel. You can't go wrong with the National Match unless you've got to have the Super Match as my old man did when they first came out.
My dad's well-worn Super Match was noticeably heavier than my old beater "pre-ban" (lugged) Standard. He traded it for a Socom 16 when they first came out, so go figure on that one. He's been around them for ~45 years so I just take his advice and he would say to get the National Match.
Also, in California, don't y'all have to have some sort of dummy flash suppressor or someshit jazz?
There are a few other shops producing quality M14/M1A rifles using GI parts. Fulton Armory comes to mind but there are others too. I would just go with the SA as they offer a good value (some knock their QC but I haven't had an issue).
*Yes, before anyone tries to call me out on this, I know there are many different factors such as loads, range conditions, etc but I still watched him do it (it was like watching someone bowl a 300, albeit quicker). The stars were definitely aligned that afternoon.
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10-22-2011, 12:23 PM
#856
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Bought a bottle of Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. Tried it today, on a piece of steel, unknown composition. It was formerly a piece of a machine I made at work, and then scrapped out, so it's probably just plain cold rolled steel. Anyway, results are not very good at this point.
Part was polished on my buffing wheel, cleaned thoroughly in alcohol and blued as per instructions. Finish is light, and not very durable. It says to let it sit overnight, so I'll try that and redo it. I also do not have steel wool, so I'm polishing/burnishing it in between coats with a scotchbrite pad. But, at this point its not dark enough, and pretty much rubs right off.
Edit: Second coat is darker and more uniform. May take 3 or 4 coats to get a decent finish. I guess I should sprung the extra couple of bucks for the premium stuff.
Part was polished on my buffing wheel, cleaned thoroughly in alcohol and blued as per instructions. Finish is light, and not very durable. It says to let it sit overnight, so I'll try that and redo it. I also do not have steel wool, so I'm polishing/burnishing it in between coats with a scotchbrite pad. But, at this point its not dark enough, and pretty much rubs right off.
Edit: Second coat is darker and more uniform. May take 3 or 4 coats to get a decent finish. I guess I should sprung the extra couple of bucks for the premium stuff.
Last edited by rleete; 10-22-2011 at 12:37 PM.
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10-22-2011, 07:10 PM
#857
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Darn that sucks. I hoped you had better success with it than this...
I'm going to try Gun-Kote bake on from brownells:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...RE-GUN-FINISH#
A little inconvenient because you need an oven to bake it, but isn't recommended to use an oven you're going to cook with... Bought an electric oven off Craigslist for $40.00 to try the stuff out and future powdercoatings. From what I can see the manufacture says the only way to remove it is media blasting, and is safe for all parts of a firearm. If we can ever get our first AK assembled we're going to slop that **** all over the entire rifle inside and out.
I'm going to try Gun-Kote bake on from brownells:
http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=4...RE-GUN-FINISH#
A little inconvenient because you need an oven to bake it, but isn't recommended to use an oven you're going to cook with... Bought an electric oven off Craigslist for $40.00 to try the stuff out and future powdercoatings. From what I can see the manufacture says the only way to remove it is media blasting, and is safe for all parts of a firearm. If we can ever get our first AK assembled we're going to slop that **** all over the entire rifle inside and out.
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10-23-2011, 09:56 AM
#858
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I tried some things I found online last night. Basically restarted from scratch.
First, I repolished it. Then, I heated it in a toaster oven. Hot enough to be really uncomfortable to hold in your hand, but not hot enough to actually burn. I then slathered it with the solution using a hobby paint brush - the kind for plastic model kits. I really slopped it on.
Let it sit for about 2 minutes, where it started looking really bad. All rusty and streaky. Next, I polished it with fine steel wool, using more solution. This brought out a nice luster, and evened up the finish. Apparently, heat is key, because this time it looked like I expected. I let it sit ovenight.
Finish is not quite as dark as I'd like, but presentable. It's not very even, but I plan on trying another coat, and I think that may do it. I also will let it sit longer before trying to polish it out, to give it more time to work.
Pics posted when I find the damn cable for the camera.
First, I repolished it. Then, I heated it in a toaster oven. Hot enough to be really uncomfortable to hold in your hand, but not hot enough to actually burn. I then slathered it with the solution using a hobby paint brush - the kind for plastic model kits. I really slopped it on.
Let it sit for about 2 minutes, where it started looking really bad. All rusty and streaky. Next, I polished it with fine steel wool, using more solution. This brought out a nice luster, and evened up the finish. Apparently, heat is key, because this time it looked like I expected. I let it sit ovenight.
Finish is not quite as dark as I'd like, but presentable. It's not very even, but I plan on trying another coat, and I think that may do it. I also will let it sit longer before trying to polish it out, to give it more time to work.
Pics posted when I find the damn cable for the camera.
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