I'm in a similar situation with boost (shy of 200whp) and stock brakes (though I haven't run EBC greens in a decade).

I think an aggressive track-only pad will be the ticket. Seems that Hawk Blue or XP8/XP10 up front will get the job done and let me be fade-free for 30 minute sessions, no?

What fluid is recommended? I'm planning to pick up a can of ATE blue/Typ200 unless told otherwise.

Does the TSE kit fit standard 15" wheels? I see pics of them on 6ULs, but I plan to stick with the stock 97M wheels for a while.

 

I have no problems driving on the street with them. There loud and dust but it doest bother me at all. My car has ABS so no bias valve for me.

 

It was pretty common for me to have a soft pedal after a track event. I would bleed the brakes. Not sure about the reving hmmm. Also I invested in a power bleeder and I love it

 

Before more questions, let me say thanks much for all the real-world info you guys are offering up. That's why this site kicks so much ***.

Is this info correct? It's what I've read a few places, just want to double check.


After reading a bunch of threads last night I have a question or two so I'm clear on potential upgrade paths. I could theoretically buy pads for the stock calipers and use them on a couple of common upgrades rotor-wise, as the calipers remain the same, correct? So as I understand it, for example, if I go with 1.8 rotors/brackets and new 1.8-sized pads, they obviously work with my 1.6 calipers. If needed, would I then be able swap to Corrado rotors up front and Sport rotors in back with the M-Tuned brackets while retaining the stock caliper and existing pads? I know I'd have to re-bed the pads, but I wouldn't necessarily have to replace them (or the calipers) outright if they weren't worn out, correct? Or am I missing something there?



Spoolin2bars said the same thing about the dust and noise, and that it doesn't bother him and that they work great hot or cold, street or track. He said he's on XP10 front and XP8 rear, on 949 rotors (1.8 size), and can beat on them with no fade at track days. If my upgrade scenario written above is accurate, this is what I'm leaning towards (today at least lol).

 

94-02 non-sport pads work with the Corrado rotor upgrade, but aren't compatible with upgrades that involve new calipers.

Correct.

Different people tolerate noise differently. I get a squeak out of my Ultimates on the street if I apply them gently and it annoys me. I don't care what the brakes sound like on the track, however, as long as they work properly. I also drive the car in freezing temperatures, so an aggressive pad like the XP10 or XP8 might be a bit much for those conditions.

 

Thanks for the followup, and migrating over here for the discussion as well. I'm not having to drive in freezing temps since it's not my DD, so no worries about extreme cold and ineffective braking.

Are the Sport calipers different (larger, or 2 piston, or both)? I have not seen any mention of that anywhere as of yet.

 

The pads on the sport calipers are larger in the front. The rears? I don't know for sure, but I have a sneaking suspicion they are. Front and back are both single piston calipers.

 

More details please? Accepting 3" ducts?

 

I just found some rear caliper brackets and prop valve from a local '96 partout. So it looks like I'll be doing a full 1.8 swap, buying the Stage 1 kit from 949racing, and probably going with XP10 front/XP8 rear pads. Will most likely not be til I'm back from Ireland that I buy all the 949 goodies but it's on the horizon. Looking forward to being able to stop safely

 

Found part of my problem with the brakes today. Spent some time bleeding them and decided to grease the pins. Driver side rear pin is rusted in place, and no amount of PB Blaster, hammering, etc would break it loose...it started to unscrew when I tried to rotate it up off the rotor and just would not let go.

 

Common problem if the sliders are not lubed reg. Spoolin was die hard ebc yellow fan until I sold him that xp10/8 setup

 

This is common.

Had same issue when I first went through my brakes about a year ago. Used an air chisel (with blunt bit -- like a hammer) to break it loose. Being keeping up with the lubrication since then and it's fine.

 

All the other calipers were lubed up and ready for action. Odd to me that this one is frozen given the condition of the others.

Hornetball, were you able to reuse after breaking it loose, or did you bend the pin or otherwise damage the caliper beyond repair?

 

I re-used. Cleaned up the pin with fine sandpaper, used a wire pipe brush on the caliper bore, flushed and lubed the heck out of it. No problems since. I re-lube every 6 months now.

Although all calipers are theoretically succeptible to this, it's the rear calipers that give problems on our cars.

 

Ok good to know. I'll borrow an air hammer and go to work on it.

 

Finally got my hands on brake pads. Picked up the XP10/XP8 pads from 949, but passed on the entire Stage 1 kit. I was able to order rotors through my friends shop for $14/ea and save some $$ there, and I figure I'll grab braided lines at some point in the future when I don't have a clutch replacement about to hoover my wallet.

Anywhoo, only got the fronts installed today as I didn't have time to deal with that frozen caliper in the rear. Also realized that I don't have dust shields up front at all, but that'll just make adding some fancy ducted ones easier. Went out and bedded them in, and even with just the 10's up front the stopping is dramatically different. Thanks again for all the suggestions here.

 

carbotechs suck ***. Will never run them again.

 

carbotechs are awesome! i will use them again.
only thing i might try is cobalts like bbundy

 

Jeff, why don't you like them?

Only thing I don't like thus far, and it's not a deal breaker, is the dust. Holy **** there's a lot of that. But the car basically does an endo when I get on the brakes now, and I can feel the skin on my face pulling away from my skull lol. Excited to get the rears on so I can see if I can actually pop an eye out with them all the way around.

 

Felt like *** (on off switch brakes) and didn't last for ****. O ya and when they got low the destroyed my rotors. Ya 1/2 my fault for running them past 20% but it was on the street in the off season. Hawks would not had few more months left.

Hustler has a bigger list of reasons.