They're $127 from rosenthal, I'd probably just replace it with new. Half the time the gouge left by whatever jammed it in the first place will probably jam it again. Sell it for $50 shipped as "fixable", and trust the new pump.

Eliminate the much easier stuff first.

 

are the vvt ones 130 too? cause that's way lower than what I saw

 

I'd love to hope it isn't a stuck valve. But I'm preparing for the worst. I'm going to attempt to pull the sandwich plate off and turn the engine over to see how much oil comes out.


Stock from Rosenthal- $294
PUMP,OIL (BP6D-14-100) - $294.82 - BP6D14100

BE- $439
https://boundaryengineering.squaresp...reetstrip-pump

 

949 has one now too. I don't know if they are in stock, though, or if it is just a re-branded BE.

 

Looks to be a BE pump to me.

 

Oh yeah, vvt, that's the $300 option unfortunately.

Good luck with the sandwich plate test Mike.

 

Another question- how much worrying should I be doing about cranking the engine over (not running it) with this appearent lack of oil pressure?

 

I was told it isn't a really isn't an issue as long as you aren't cranking it forever and several times in a row.

 

300-400rpm for short periods of time shouldn't hurt it
(obviously disable fuel so as not to flood it)

 

Depending on the purpose of said cranking, the removal of the spark plugs (and attendant disconnection of the low-voltage side of the coils, and of the injectors) will afford much easier cranking, with less mechanical load on the bearings, less electrical load on the starter and battery, and higher cranking RPMs leading to more prompt initiation of oil circulation.

 

Doesn't help your cams though. Probably wouldn't hurt to pop the valve cover and put a generous coating of assembly lube on the cam lobes if you're going to do a lot of this.

 

There really is no point in cranking it for a long time. 3-5 second bursts should already get the needle jumping up if pump is building pressure. And there's really no need to do this more than a few times - troubleshoot using the couple methods posted already, and if its no bueno might be time to yank the pump

 

On my stock engine, after sitting for weeks during the turbo install, cranking would not build oil pressure (with plugs intact), but it also cranks only about 250 RPM. I had to let it fire off, then had pressure in seconds.

 

More bad news-

Finally got to tinkering with the car.

First thing I did was pull the coils and plugs, pull the INJ relay, and disconnected the oil feed to the turbo and put it in a bottle. Cranked engine over for 6-8 seconds. No oil in bottle.

Next I pulled the oil inlet hose to the remote oil filter with the logic that it is the first place oil goes after the pump. I then took a bottle that had pump about 2oz of gear oil, filled it with regular oil (and mixed the oil up well) and "pumped" oil through the inlet hose in hope that it would prime the oil pump. I pumped about 8oz of oil into the line. After this was done, I turned the engine over again for another 6-8 seconds. This time I saw the gauge spring up to life. YAY! I kept cranking for 3-4 more seconds to ensure oil flow through the system. Stopped cranking. Checked the bottle for the oil feed and there was a few oz of oil in it. I quickly re-installed the plugs, coils, oil feed and put the INJ relay in. Fired up the car and failed to see oil pressure. FML.

I then pulled the coils/plugs/oil feed/INJ relay and started all over. Also, I pulled the filter off and drained it. I did this 2 more times (priming through the oil inlet hose and turning the engine over). No dice. I did get a small amount of oil from the turbo oil feed...combined from about 20 seconds of turning the engine over was about 2 table spoons. The oil filter was getting oil to it as well.

Finally, I went to drain the oil filter one last time and noticed it was a bit shiny/had small flecks in it. That's all I needed to see to go into a full-on panic attack because now I feel like the engine is done. I can't take this anymore....


This was basically the setup I was using to pump oil into the oil pump via the feed line to the oil filter...

 

Did you remove that hex screw on the oil pump and see if oil came out like lars posted?

 

I didn't get to doing that. I did forget one detail- when I was 'dry' cranking it, the oil filter would fill up with oil. There seems to be some flow, but I don't know how much. The car is in a parking lot and the sun is beating down on it right now, so crawling around on the pavement to get under the car to remove the alternator is not what I want to be doing right now. Will add info about oil filter filling with oil to previous post.

 

Damn man.. now I haz a sad.

 

Shot of the suspended particulates in the oil filter (click full-size to see better)-

 

motor has like 20 miles on it, that could just be from the freshly honed walls/rings.
just sayin

 

I'd hope so, but given everything going on...I can't help but go straight to worse-case scenario. Unfortunately, this oil has not been driven on. This is the oil I put in it and have cranked up the engine on for maybe all of 30 seconds, and spun over a fair bit trying to build pressure. The engine has already been through the oil you put in it, oil I put in it to drive it home and now this round of oil. I'd think that metal flakes should long be gone.

Not to look at MT for mental therapy, but there is other **** going on in my life that is not just the car situation, and it's all piling up and sucking dry my motivation to give a **** about anything. I just need something to go 'good' soon...and it seems getting to drive my car home last Monday was going to be that thing...until this **** happened.