Nope, that is your old one!

:party:

I need a squaretop :( anyone haz for sale?

Side by side of Squaretop (left) and VTCS (right). Gaskets are not interchangeable.

Squaretop intake runner openings are significantly larger, 50mmID vs 43mmID. I find it interesting the squaretop gasket only seals the outer perimeter.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1422394075

Dumb question - Will squaretop cause (stock computer) NB to throw a code if you switch from the 01-05 manifold? I am guessing it will but it's worth asking.

Are the ports on the flange that meets the head the same or bigger? Nice size improvement for sure. Looks like a different gasket too, anyone have a part number or link?

You can hook everything up except VTCS. I don't know if that will throw a code or not.

Email Miataroadster or Corksport, they should be able to source the gasket for you. I know Bill at Miataroadster can.

Well the gasket is $30 plus shipping. The manifold I was working on getting doesn't have one which kind of kills the deal. Anyone else have anything square and spare?

Still haven't found a squaretop :(

The Honda intake route might be worth a look. Skunk2 rep ($120)+Miata flange ($50)+welding ($50)+honda throttle body($30) = ~$250

I just can't justify the $400+shipping I've been seeing lately.

I think I recall someone working on a manifold that should be released soon. I can't recall who?

I have a Skunk 2 genuine TB sitting NIB that I would like to use, but could always sell also.

There are several squaretops for sale right now?? I bought one from a guy that had several for $450.

Yea $450 is too much for what you get in return IMO

So sell me your Skunk2 then. I do not imagine you will get a squaretop for much less. They are cheaper now than several years ago. I got my first squaretop for $500.

I bought that just to have on my regular Manifold. Maybe I'll sell. What do you want to pay? PM me

New shot with a re-set catch can. Should work much better with a real PCV.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1429103689

Looking good! :bigtu:

Makes me miss my car :cry: can't wait to have it back.

Put her on the scale today!

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1432698600

wow that is so precise, to the last 1lb :)

It only read increments of 20lb. It was at 2500 and then 2480 back and forth a bit

Car looks great! 2500 doesn't sound too bad for an NB with all the turbo goodies. It inspires me to finish mine.

Seems like a lot to me. Put it this way, my DD, a 97 Civic EX 5MT with a sunroof shows online weight of 2640. The weight for the stock MSM on the same site was spot on so I trust the numbers. But we're talking a larger car with 2 rows of seats, a trunk, etc. It seems like the MSM should be significantly lighter considering it's smaller in every way, has no real roof, less seats, less car in general.

Unfortunately for me, there's no way to reduce the weight any further without sacraficing the things I have in the car. Gutting the interior is not happening because I still want it to feel like a normal car when I cruise, not some track prepped bucket. AC and PS components apparently only weigh ~30lbs combined, again, not worth the effort of removal. Trunk is already stripped.

The only other thing I could imagine would be to get lighter seats which is hard to get for me cause of my build (big shoulders, smaller waist) combined with the size restrictions in the car, completely remove the soft-top and run with no top at all (PITA for storing the car or leaving it parked anywhere).

Wait, I think I got it!!! How much does the engine weigh? Maybe I can remove that...... :giggle:

You're totally missing the point. Triple the stock horsepower of your civic and see how the chassis/transmission/etc holds up.

Also, RWD requires more weight because of the driveshaft and all that, in addition to the fact that it's a convertible so the chassis has to be built more solidly than a hardtop.

The fact that your turbocharged, full-interior, convertible MSM is still 140 pounds lighter than the [published, probably understated] weight of your civic is quite amazing.

Oh, and A/C and PS components weigh considerably more than 30 pounds combined. more like 50-60, and it's off the nose of the car.

If you take any weight off make it unsprung weight! Upgrade the brakes lol

I'd like to get a definitive answer on that. One guy on another forum had a bunch of component weights posted, many replies from knowledgeble members, noone corrected his numbers for those things. He said ~30lbs

From basic research I'm seeing 38 pounds for A/C and about 10 pounds for power steering, so 48 pounds.

My NB ac stuff weighed iirc 32 lbs. Can't find the post at the moment. The Mazdaspeed has a fancy aluminum bracket for the compressor instead of the standard steel one, so saves at least 5lbs over the standard one? Curly chime in.

also the compressor itself is smaller on msm

The MSM AC compressor is smaller? I will get better AC if I put on a normal NB AC compressor?

I believe it uses the same compressor as the RX-8. While it is smaller it is also longer which caused me a great headache with the way my EFR manifold was designed. I think a 99-00 compressor would interfere with turboparts. Plus you would need custom lines for it to work with your condenser.

Either way, it just doesn't seem like it's worth the hassle. Maybe after I get new seats I'll see if I can shave off 40lbs for the pair and maybe that will give me the determination to get it down to the 2400 mark. Even with AC and PS being on the best side being 48lbs, that would leave me with another 12 to shave somewhere. I just wish I did those things with the engine out of the car. I don't really know how I feel about ghetto looping the steering rack, or whether its worth it to take it all apart and convert it to a manual one.

If you are going to delete the power steering then gut the rack. I love the feel of my steering now way more than when I still had the power steering functioning.

Can I ask, how much heavier is it in parking lots etc? I had a 4runner without power steering, I doubt it's worse than that, but that was pretty bad. Then I had a civic without it, and you hardly noticed as long as you were moving at all. Even inching along it was barely noticeable. I've debated buying a regular NB rack and gutting it to put in my MSM...

I'm actually sitting in my car in a parking lot now. It's not bad as long as you adjust the way you drive in slow speed parking lot situations. Don't try to turn at a dead stop, I mean you can.. It's just way easier to let the car do the work for you. Even if you just feather the clutch out to inch you along like you said, it will make all the difference.

BTW I'm using my MSM rack.. I'd just use what you have already.

I remember hearing that the MSM had a shorter rack than a regular NB giving it faster steering but a wider overall turning radius. True?

So wouldn't putting in a regular NB or NA rack be a downgrade?

How hard is the rack to remove with engine in car?

I believe the MSM rack is has a different gear ratio, requiring less movement of the steering wheel to achieve the same movement of the tires. This of course makes it have slightly heavier steering than the other racks when depowered. That being said, I can't really comment on whether it's a downgrade or not to switch to another rack.

I removed mine with engine in the car. I used FM's method of gutting and cutting the seals out. It was late at night and I remember it taking a few hours. I'm sure it would be way easier in the daylight.

To add further confusion here: I have heard that the MSM rack ratio is the same, but it just doesn't have as many teeth on the rack, so basically 1 turn of the wheels gets you the same as in any other NB, but you hit lock sooner. It's kinda OEM- :-(

I was wrong, you are correct. It's been awhile since I looked into the matter and I got mixed up.

Thanks for clearing that up. I'll definitely be using my '99 rack then instead of the MSM one.

So I had a run with my buddy the other night

2012 Mercedes C63 AMG stock 451hp Sedan

0-120 Both spun, he spun more, beat him by ~5 cars
40-130 he said he jumped (I didn't see it) and I pulled a car length away by the end

Bonus: was creeping up hard on his brothers ~600whp e55 AMG, then found out the Benz was in limp mode haha

Pretty pleased. The hunt continues

So some new stuff. Got 949racing motor mounts. Super stiff and vibratey at first, 200 miles later they are much more mellow.

Skunk 2 throttle body and some IM porting to blend it together.

Got a lightly used set of Maxxis RC-1 245/40-15 for the 9" ULs. Definitely need to stiffen up the springs from the current 7/6 to probably a 9/6 or 10/7 setup but the grip is amazing as is the straight line traction. Car is now at the tuner for some refinements and maybe more boost. I want to do track days next year so reliability is important.

60mph pull in 3rd
http://youtu.be/hp5c8mqS4Vs

At 17psi made 311/285
Up to 21psi made 328/328

Unfortunately anything over 21psi breaks up, out of power on the coil module. Going to work with Fab9 on this and hopefully order one soon and then maybe I'll try for more power. The jump in torque is gonna take some getting used to.

Makes some nice noises :)

Thank you! Correction, it actually made 328/308 still a nice pickup

We are running the FAB9 coils in wasted spark. If we went to sequential, would that perhaps alleviate some issues? Does sequential still use the coil driver?

Worst comes to worst how hard is it to create a COP system that uses GM coils?

yes seq COPs should help a bit

Does the module still get used or you don't know? I'm thinking its time to go LS coils next year and perhaps sell these to someone who won't be running them at max capacity.

pretty sure it does.
https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1386803787

true seq requires re-wiring for each coil as you can see

I am planning on going to LS2 truck coils here shortly. I was going to wire them up without the Fab9 driver, we'll see how that goes. I don't see any mention of drivers on the write ups for the LS coils but maybe I'm blind.

So picked it up from the tuner. Feels good except the spark issues. You can hear it in the speedo video below. Besides that the car pulls hard and feels fantastic! I'll take it back once I get the new coil setup and it should have no issues.

https://youtu.be/46MeP98gEMk


http://youtu.be/QTileixY38Y

looks like a hoot, 'grats.
sounds great too

Watching that highway pull video makes me :likecat: Do want.

Thank you thank you. The ignition woes are definitely still here and seems to be happening once I hit my 20psi mark no matter what gear or throttle position. I'm going to start working on the LS coils in the coming weeks and install. Even if I don't get to tune for more boost this year ill at least have good drivability.

I actually took my Fab9 COPs off in preparation for my LS coils and I am currently running the factory coils @20.5psi with no issues.. I was surprised to see that they are holding up to the boost. maybe your timing is more aggressive then mine, though.

I think that more timing and less fuel would actually help not break up, at least from what I've seen

I have the 8.6:1 compression Pistons and recall my tuner saying he ran less timing than expected. I've long ago sold my stock coils and wires so ill be working on the LS setup sooner than later. Does it require a module of some kind? I want to run sequential too.

now that you mention it.. That does make more sense the way you said it.

I have the same compression pistons, I was just going to wire my LS2 truck coils in a wasted spark configuration without a module. I'll be running the D585 coils mounted via tabs welded to a 99-00 valve cover. How are you planning to mount yours?

I am going to run my MSM valve cover. Darkcambria lives around my neck of the woods and has a spare harness and made some kind of bracket to hold things in place. I'll probably just replicate that setup. I have never seen one in person and don't know about them, just that they work.