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Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
Another reason not to go ABSURDflow

Speaking of oil drains. What size drill and tap did you guys use on my car for the oil pan? I sent your brother a message and he was gonna check with you and your dad. Im puttin in a new engine and need to tap the oil pan again.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:35 PM
  #42  
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We actually didn't drill or tap the oil pan. We just cut the threaded section of an AN fitting and JBWeld'ed it on there. Much simpler. Looks legit. I figured you'd blow the motor up before the turbo anyway.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
We actually didn't drill or tap the oil pan. We just cut the threaded section of an AN fitting and JBWeld'ed it on there. Much simpler. Looks legit. I figured you'd blow the motor up before the turbo anyway.
cuz that's how the pros do it.



gotta be careful when you tighten it or you'll pull it right off.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:42 PM
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I was actually joking.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
Thanks, look like I have work to do.
better shot:




I know Brgracer had to do something like you, Hustler, did to get his to work. His turbo was so low that the ends of the fittings were touching each other, there was able 1/8" of visible hose.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
I was actually joking.
I thought so. Cause I remembered asking about if I should JB weld it if it started to leak. Its definitely threaded.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:45 PM
  #47  
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Legit

Name:  Pan2.jpg
Views: 62
Size:  615.5 KB

Not legit





Now only if I had something to hook to it.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 03:50 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by TurboTim
Another reason not to go ABSURDflow
You're putting words in my mouth now. I think your mani is the ****. I just think that there is much room for improvement in that return line. He just needs to angle the fitting on the pan differently and then shorten that line by like half.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:16 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
You're putting words in my mouth now. I think your mani is the ****. I just think that there is much room for improvement in that return line. He just needs to angle the fitting on the pan differently and then shorten that line by like half.
I just ordered new, shorter fittings. You can rest easy.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
Legit



Not legit





Now only if I had something to hook to it.
the AN fitting is tapped into the oil pan and only uses JB as thread sealant because of the teflon tape no-no... it is track proven legit.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:29 PM
  #51  
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Personally, If I had a choice I would want something like y8s has but made of SS and has a nut on the other side that is then welded to the fitting once tightened down. Then you never have to worry about threads shearing from over tightening and it will never leak because of the JB.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:34 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by y8s
the AN fitting is tapped into the oil pan and only uses JB as thread sealant because of the teflon tape no-no... it is track proven legit.
I know, I know. Its perfectly fine if you do it that way with the engine still in the car, but if you go JB weld and the engine is out of the car, shame on you!
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 04:44 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
Legit


Even more legit


I don't see anything wrong with using JBWeld as a thread sealant. That's what I used on my 1.6.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 05:14 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by NA6C-Guy
I know, I know. Its perfectly fine if you do it that way with the engine still in the car, but if you go JB weld and the engine is out of the car, shame on you!
hmm ok. please link me to the source for the aluminum -10 Female version. I have a second 01 oil pan that is already off the car and drilled.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 05:17 PM
  #55  
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The female pan pictured is full of fail IMHO. The purpose of the 37deg angle is to provide a leak free seal. Without it all you have is just another threading. The male version pictured by Tim is the only way to go it you are doing weld on.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:28 PM
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If I could redo it I would have done male, but the idea with going female was I wasn't going turbo right away, and wouldn't have a way to cap off the AN fitting otherwise. Unless they make a female AN cap that I have never seen before. It was a good choice since I'm still not turbo and if I ever do it will still be years down the road. Female bung is still win over JB welded ugly mess.

Not sure if you seriously wanted a link or not. I think it was this one in my case, 3/8''NPT

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/15252/10002/-1

Considering it was $5 for the bung and only cost me a small tip (guy wouldn't charge me for welding it on) it beats the hell out of doing a JB weld job down the road and having to deal with drilling and tapping on the car.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:37 PM
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You mean like these plugs? AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:41 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
OK, you win... if I had known they existed I would have gone that route.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 07:54 PM
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Originally Posted by neogenesis2004
These are what I'm using to plug both of my AN bungs right now. (BTW Running NA sucks but we all know that)

I'll weld on an AN bung for you matt for free, just pay for the shipping both ways, or you can give it to me (or pick it up) at the dyno day.
Old Oct 26, 2009 | 09:55 PM
  #60  
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oh my bad, I meant MALE. I already have the female plug cap. looks like they're 5-15 bucks. not bad!



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