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Old 10-17-2013, 01:57 PM   #21
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Dropping the oil pan on these cars with the motor in isn't really so easy. To do it right you typically either pull the motor, or drop the front subframe. Maybe there's some method I haven't heard about yet?

Also, damn that rust.

You've made a lot of great progress!
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:00 PM   #22
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Cleaned up the underside of the cam cover, including the little baffle boxes (they were pretty gross, but not clogged up) and changed the gasket. No leaks.

Compression test numbers:

185
180
165/185 wet
175

Better than I was expecting.
Not too bad at all. Damn that oil gunked up pretty bad. How did the cleaning go??? You are almost guaranteed that the T6 wont do that. AND, it will clean out any of the gunk you couldnt get to. Good stuff... i wish i could drink it...
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Old 10-17-2013, 02:20 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by sharkythesharkdogg View Post
Dropping the oil pan on these cars with the motor in isn't really so easy. To do it right you typically either pull the motor, or drop the front subframe. Maybe there's some method I haven't heard about yet?

Also, damn that rust.

You've made a lot of great progress!
No, I don't think there is an "easy" way to drop the pan. I think I will eventually pull the motor, but I'm waiting for enough good reasons to pile up to do so first (maybe re-reoute, 01+ block, or VVT swap?)

I am happy with the compression, and the de-gunking of the engine cover sucked so bad I didn't really mess with the top end of the motor. No grime was infesting any moving parts and the oil passages were clean, so I just scooped out the sludge that was easy to get at and buttoned up the motor.

I sucked some seafoam through the IM, and added the recommended amount to the crankcase, then drove around a little and changed the oil. It was really black, but not chunky. Replaced it with a fresh filter and T6 and will probably repeat the whole process in a few months.

The car is running great. Looking to get some used bilsteins and a 450/350~ish ebay coil setup next.
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Old 10-22-2013, 09:25 PM   #24
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Intro win
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Old 10-23-2013, 10:39 AM   #25
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Intro win
Thanks Emilio. Reading about your old Silver Rental is the main reason I bought this car.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:16 AM   #26
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Welcome

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Old 02-21-2014, 04:47 PM   #27
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Since everyone is commenting on the rust, here are some more hawt before pics:

Don't want my first post to be a thread jack, but, I also bought a emerald mica green nb towards the end of last year. Had the car up on jack stands last night and was cleaning up some oil to try to track a leak last night. Happened to look over at the frame and noticed a split lengthwise along the frame similar to your second photo above. Upon closer inspection, behind the tire in the wheel well shows similar rust damage to your first photo, but maybe only 6" long or so. I have a feeling once I take a hammer to it, I'll find it extends a bit further.

I'll probably be looking to grind/patch/weld similar to what you did...

Few questions

-Do you have any tips from your experience?
-Do you know what the gray layer is behind the rust holes in the side of the frame? Almost looks like its possible the structural portion is underneath this rusty layer?? Or is that just the "inside" of the other side of the rail?

It was quite upsetting to find this, but having hope now that I'm seeing quite a few people have had rust in the same area and were able to successfully patch it.
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Old 02-22-2014, 10:27 AM   #28
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Erik,

I was able to repair my rust problem because all of the damage was done to the frame rails in front of where the subframe attaches. This seems to common, but you need to make sure you aren't dealing with a bigger structural issue.

I'd advise you to remove all the plastic underlayment, front bumper and figure out how bad it is. I wouldn't worry about the wheel wells for now, that's just cosmetic.

The "gray layer" you are seeing is just more layers of the fame - the different pieces are sandwiched together from the factory. Really helps them trap moisture and accelerate rusting.

If it's just the frame rails like my pictures above, it's fixable - you'll need a good angle grinder, probably a sawzall, and someone who can weld. Get some pics and start an intro of your own and I'll let you know what I think. I was lucky enough to know a professional body shop guy to help me through it, but there are several people on this site that have brought cars back from the brink.

Good luck.
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Old 02-23-2014, 02:05 PM   #29
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Thanks for the info. Mine is also on the rail in front of the subframe attachment point. It's not as bad as yours yet... Let me attach some photos.

Should b able to grind patch weld
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Old 02-23-2014, 06:53 PM   #30
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Just wait until you start cutting - That will end up being pretty bad. Just make sure you get all of it out, removing the bad spots is definitely the most time consuming part of the job. Just take your time and do it right.

Good time to ditch the power steering and A/C
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Old 02-23-2014, 07:47 PM   #31
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Haha. Yup. P/s and ac will come out, will confirm if rear main is leaking and fix any leaky seals, etc.
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