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Old 12-21-2012, 11:30 AM   #61
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The 1.6 is a couple of centimeters shorter in overall length, if I recall correctly.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:42 PM   #62
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Am I the only one that enjoys hearing Brain talk about 1.6's?

If you pick the 1.6 for non financial reasons you should get a ban.

Seriously 0 benefit to the 1.6 other than $$$.
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Old 12-21-2012, 12:43 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixshooter View Post
The 1.6 is a couple of centimeters shorter in overall length, if I recall correctly.
HOLY ****! that must make it REALLY EASY to tune.


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Old 12-21-2012, 02:43 PM   #64
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Ok, so I should go for the 1.8 then....I assume they both used the same 5 speed transmission? What are the final drives on the 1.6 and 1.8 cars mentioned as I run a 4.1:1 in my axle?

Thanks
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:43 PM   #65
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It is a couple of centimeters shorter to tune, lol.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:49 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sylva_phoenix View Post
Ok, so I should go for the 1.8 then....I assume they both used the same 5 speed transmission? What are the final drives on the 1.6 and 1.8 cars mentioned as I run a 4.1:1 in my axle?

Thanks
Same 5 speed, and most of the Miata diffs are 4.1:1 also, so it should work fine for you. And this is useful for looking at the differences between different miata gearboxes and diffs.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:52 PM   #67
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1.6l got shitty easy to break 4.3 rears
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:04 PM   #68
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Brilliant, that means it's geared perfectly for me. The ford type 9 has a low 2nd gear that requires money spending on new ratios to get it to the ones that are standard in the Miata transmission. Bonus.
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:05 PM   #69
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Quote:
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1.6l got shitty easy to break 4.3 rears

Some of the Jap imports got 4.3 torsens, FWIW
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Old 12-21-2012, 06:31 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
1.8L vs my 1.6L

I'm running about 13psi and he's running about 8-9psi.

Very similar setup



notice how mine's a POS.



The 1.6L is a bastard child motor. It's not any easier to tune; they are essentially the same motor. It's easier to make less power with it, so it's easier to be slower with it.

Please stop taking advice from 70 year old grandpas that enjoy chrome accents and luggage racks and actively engage in discussions about the best all-season tire for driving in parades with costumes on.
TRUTH

all of it.

also LOL
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:20 PM   #71
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The power output is perfect but, much more importantly look at that WALL OF TORQUE from 3.5k. Mid gear acceleration is what I'm really interested in and that kind of brute force will make my phoenix utterly, pant-shattingly fast. sorry British terminology.

Last edited by sylva_phoenix; 12-21-2012 at 11:23 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-21-2012, 11:45 PM   #72
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I have a feeling you are going to be rowing through the gears with a quickness. Did you ever dyno the xflow?

I hope like hell you own a GoPro because I want to watch this thing fly. I have this urge to sell all my other projects and build a Locost or a Phoenix
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:45 AM   #73
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I'll just use 3rd an 4th most of the time and ride the torque. my only concern with all of this is the smoothness of delivery as is it could kick the rear end out mid corner if I'm not careful. I'm planning to have it tuned on a rolling road, so hopefully the larger engine running relatively low boost will be nicely driveable. I have a suction camera mount which I use with a regular Canon powershot, seems to come out ok, although wind noise is always a problem.
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Old 12-22-2012, 10:42 AM   #74
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wall of torque?




no 1.6L is going to do this.
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Old 12-23-2012, 09:09 AM   #75
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Thats awesome, but I'm sure I would break the axle with that much torque. Would be fun thing though. Is that with a gt28 turbo?
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Old 12-23-2012, 10:29 AM   #76
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2560 at around 14psi on 1.8L motors. Dont get a 1.6L motor, or a 1.6L rear end, or brakes, or clutch.
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Old 12-23-2012, 12:33 PM   #77
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1.6 is the greatest motor ever made.

OP post some pics. Lots of pics.
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:27 AM   #78
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Update, here's my shopping list:
1.8 or 1.6 engine and transmission, from series 1 or 2 mx5 (depends what's available at the right price)
Megassquirt ms2 enhanced ecu (does the job and fits the budget)
Wideband lambda and controller from trigger wheels.com,
Walbro 255 fuel pump or equivalent,
Garrett t25 turbo, or kkk k04 from Audi tt 225 hp version,
Down pipe for turbo,
Custom fabricated exhaust manifold to my own design,
Custom exhaust and silencer to my own design,
Intercooler-various types on eBay so depends on cost and size to fit kit car.
Pipes and hoses to fit intercooler,
Oil and coolant feed and return for turbo,
Sump modifications to shorten engine and return oil feed from turbo
Uprated clutch (and flywheel if budget allows)
Fabricated engine and transmission mounts.
High pressure fuel feed and return lines plus fuel filters (modify tank for return line input)
Modified clutch pedal for hydraulic (was cable on previous trans)
Professional dyno session.
Larger radiator, probably golf gti or similar.
Oil pressure line take off for gauge
Oil cooler and take off plate plus hoses.

Can't think of anything else, butt tell me if I've missed something obvious.
Target is 180-200 whp and total cost less than 1800.

Thanks for the advice
Laurence
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:02 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sylva_phoenix View Post
Update, here's my shopping list:
1.8 or 1.6 engine and transmission, from series 1 or 2 mx5 (depends what's available at the right price)
Megassquirt ms2 enhanced ecu (does the job and fits the budget)
Wideband lambda and controller from trigger wheels.com,
Walbro 255 fuel pump or equivalent,
Garrett t25 turbo, or kkk k04 from Audi tt 225 hp version,
Down pipe for turbo,
Custom fabricated exhaust manifold to my own design,
Custom exhaust and silencer to my own design,
Intercooler-various types on eBay so depends on cost and size to fit kit car.
Pipes and hoses to fit intercooler,
Oil and coolant feed and return for turbo,
Sump modifications to shorten engine and return oil feed from turbo
Uprated clutch (and flywheel if budget allows)
Fabricated engine and transmission mounts.
High pressure fuel feed and return lines plus fuel filters (modify tank for return line input)
Modified clutch pedal for hydraulic (was cable on previous trans)
Professional dyno session.
Larger radiator, probably golf gti or similar.
Oil pressure line take off for gauge
Oil cooler and take off plate plus hoses.

Can't think of anything else, butt tell me if I've missed something obvious.
Target is 180-200 whp and total cost less than 1800.

Thanks for the advice
Laurence
I personally ran a GT2554 on a 97 (old style) 1.8 at 10-12ish psi and dynoed at almost exactly 200whp

A "run of the mill" turbo miata build will meet your needs EASILY and you won't have to do anything special.

My recommendation? I don't know what parts availability is like over the pond, but I sold my old gt2554 for something stupid like $100 (61GBP!!!!) and if you farted it would spool (like full at ~2500rpm). In the states those turbos are everywhere. 200 is the sweet spot for it, but it will do 220-230. the 2560 is almost as cheap, and will do 250-270hp.

Not exactly miata related but I've always dealt with John at FIC for all my injectors and only use EV14 style. CHEAP. And AWESOME.

Get a 99 style engine (pre VVT, better head). Throw some $200 (~120GBP) ebay/mtuned rods in it. Don't touch the pistons. Don't touch the head. Cheap garret turbo. Do a coolant re-route. Boost ~12psi. Keep revs sensible. If you're making the exhaust yourself that's all there is to it. Spend extra cash on injectors, computers, and nice fitting/fire sleeve.

Best of all that type of build is so vanilla, EVERYTHING you're doing has been covered to death. It'll run forever and the "search" function will literally hold your hand the whole way (not pimping you to search, you're one of the good guys. Just saying).

BTW, to put it in terms you chaps use, your car is the badger's nadgers!
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Old 01-05-2013, 06:38 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tasty danish View Post
I personally ran a GT2554 on a 97 (old style) 1.8 at 10-12ish psi and dynoed at almost exactly 200whp

A "run of the mill" turbo miata build will meet your needs EASILY and you won't have to do anything special.

My recommendation? I don't know what parts availability is like over the pond, but I sold my old gt2554 for something stupid like $100 (61GBP!!!!) and if you farted it would spool (like full at ~2500rpm). In the states those turbos are everywhere. 200 is the sweet spot for it, but it will do 220-230. the 2560 is almost as cheap, and will do 250-270hp.

Not exactly miata related but I've always dealt with John at FIC for all my injectors and only use EV14 style. CHEAP. And AWESOME.

Get a 99 style engine (pre VVT, better head). Throw some $200 (~120GBP) ebay/mtuned rods in it. Don't touch the pistons. Don't touch the head. Cheap garret turbo. Do a coolant re-route. Boost ~12psi. Keep revs sensible. If you're making the exhaust yourself that's all there is to it. Spend extra cash on injectors, computers, and nice fitting/fire sleeve.

Best of all that type of build is so vanilla, EVERYTHING you're doing has been covered to death. It'll run forever and the "search" function will literally hold your hand the whole way (not pimping you to search, you're one of the good guys. Just saying).

BTW, to put it in terms you chaps use, your car is the badger's nadgers!
Better than previous years yes.
Better than vvt? NO
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