Hey there, just wanted to say hi. I'm still shopping for my first miata. I'm leaning on 94/95/99's and waiting for the right price.

I've seen a couple of the interested na's for about $4000 and the 99's for $5-6.5k. They all have power everything which I'm believing comes w/torsen LSD (the big item I'm interested in already having in it) so it's a matter of I guess checking out how they run. Start up ease, any exhaust smoke, throttle noise, gear changes, body condition... Are there certain things I should take care to look more carefully in the purchase? I've never bought a used car before and have relied on warranties to cover anything that would have come up.

Thanks!

 

if the seller doesn't mind pull up the carpet in the footwell and see if the insulation is wet

 

well it turned out the 95' has some paintovers where you can see the rust flaking. It was on the back driver's rear panel near the door area. Antenna didn't move, brakes weren't responsive, driver's power window was about 4x slower than the passenger's. Additionally didn't want to budge anywhere below 4500.

 

the pros:

90-93: lots of cheap used greddy kits floating around, no EGR so more lax emissions requirements

90-94: real oil pressure gauge

94+: bigger motor, better synchros, bigger brakes, more bracing, bigger/better/stronger diff

90-95.5: OBDI, oil feed right on driver side of block for turbo, lower compression(= better for turbo to avoid detonation)

90-97: MSPNP available, a dime a dozen

99-00: better head design

 

good summation for initial questions. thanks!
i've been leaning towards 94/95, but occassionally move over to 99's when the pricing seems attractive.

Currently searching for perfect 99's under $5500, and great condition 94/95's for under... $4000. You think any of the prices are unrealistic or can be easily gotten for cheaper? I don't mind waiting several weeks to pick up the "right car for an amazing price". :-)

 

i think you can find a 94/95 in great condition for under $4000. I'm not well versed in things NB.

pick up a 94 and throw a 99 head/intake on it. then boost the **** out of it

 

If you want easy to deal with, less cost, and a lighter car get a 94-95 and your good to go. The 1.8 engine/brakes. No OBDII is a plus in my book too. Making sure it has a Torsen will go a long way towards saving some money and time later on.

 

is adding a 99's head/intake difficult to put on a 94? What does it involve/est. costs?

 

I say '94-'95 just to get the 1.8 and 7" diff from the get-go. I have a '93 myself, but looking back I should've gotten the 1.8 car. I've replaced the original diff with the 1.8 one and if I ever swap to the 1.8, then what was the point of getting the '93?