ICE-.-

For my senior project in highschool a friend and I are building a turbo miata (shocker), and I have a few questions that i have yet to find the answers too
here is what I am looking to do, what i am expecting to pay, and what i hope to get:
ENGINE ASSEMBLY: = $2753

Rods: Manly H beams = $370
Bearings: ACL race bearings = $53
Pistons: 10.6:1 or 8.6:1? Supertech 4032 w/ Wisco rings = 474
Oil Pump: billet gears = $330
Upgrade crankshaft damper = $526
Machine shop = 1000

Turbo = $1879
gt2560 = $800
intercooler + piping = $900
Boost Controller = $179
boost solenoid = $55

OTHER STUFF:
Fuel Injectors 750cc= $330
Clutch + flywheel = $200
exhaust = $300
ECU MSPnP3 = $1200


so, am i crazy? did i totally forget something, please let me know!!!!!!

borka

iTrader: (1)

Welcome,

ACL bearings, you need Rods bearings, Main bearings, and thrust bearings. its not $53 for all of those.
OEM seals and headgasket add about $300
if will be running pump gas, you want 8.6:1 pistons
Unless something is wrong with block or head, machine shop work should be under half your $1k budget

2560r is a good turbo, but you forgot to add Turbo Manifold/Downpipe+oil and water lines. add $700-800
Check out Kraken on FB, you can get an awesome cast manifold, dp and full exhaust and oil/water lines for around $1200. top notch quality too.

For a 2560r 630cc injectors is plenty and they will max out that turbo. most recommend FlowForce ev14 injectors. $300

You dont want a $200 clutch/flywheel ebay trash. keep stock flywheel (maybe resurface) and get FM stage 1. $350

forget boost controller, MS3 is your boost controller, just get a boost control solenoid and hook it up to the MS3 $60
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...-solenoid-kit/

With your power levels, Crankshaft damper is not really needed, nor is billet oil pump, unless reving higher than stock, or thrashing the car on the track. But if money is no object, by all means.

good luck and post some pics of your project.

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

Also exhaust is expensive I think I was almost 500 in materials to do mine. I'm assuming you're doing this all to a 1.8? The mk turbo is a great entry level kit for the money.

ICE-.-

Thanks for the input, I'm actually going to stick with a 1.6l, I realize this is a bit unpopular however I'm pretty set on it. As to why machine shop costs are high I'm going to have everything balanced, have the block decked and overbored 1m. If I'm overpaying for that let me know, I called two shops and good roughly the same estimate.

Exhaust:
I've heard that cast manifolds are the way to go, and I like the look of the beggi one, plus it's a lot cheaper than the kraken. As for the DP are the pretty much interchangeable with different manifolds as long as they have the same diameter?

Anyway, what kind of power levels should I be looking at with these internals and turbo on 91 octane ****?

borka

iTrader: (1)

do you already own the 1.6 car?

If you stick with the 1.6, add $1000 to your budget for a 1.8L torsen differential with axles and driveshaft. 1.6L unit will break at your power level.

maxing out a 2560r u will see around 270hp.

begi is not cheaper. How did you come to this conclusion.
you like the look?? A manifold is not a fashion accessory. Lol.
manifold and downpipe needs to be a matched set. Not interchengeable from vendor to vendor.

ICE-.-

That's a really good point about the 1.8 rear end, I'll make sure to add that to my budget! And is cast not better than tubular when it comes to manifolds?

pdexta

iTrader: (17)

Just leave the motor alone for now. The stock motor will do fine with all the other parts you listed. If you get everything all squared away and you want more power, it's easy enough to buy a cheap stock motor (especially if you insist on using a 1.6 that nobody else wants) and have that built while you're still driving around with the stock motor. Then it's a quick and easy to swap motors when you're ready.

In my experience you want to break the process down into small steps to minimize downtime. Downtime is what kills motivation, progress, complicates the diagnosis of problems, and pisses off whatever family/significant other who dealing with a torn apart car in their garage or driveway.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Begi is cast
flying miata is cast
kraken is cast.

begi and flying miata are fairly similar mediocre manifolds. Not bad and not great.

kraken is the new kid on the block. Very nice cast manifold. Fits better, and flows better than begi and FM. For actually cheaper. Or about same price.

ICE-.-

That's a good suggestion, I think I am going to do something along those lines, I'm going to pull the engine and put in the forged internals and turbo it. I really want to do this right, and I've always wanted to properly build a motor!

ICE-.-

Alright you've convinced me XD

sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

You can't have a turbo without a wideband. Innovate LC2.

If you insist on a failaids 1.6 you will also need a variable TPS conversion.

WigglingWaffles

I went through Kraken for my entire hotside (minus turbo) and the fit and finish is excellent and far above par for the price. I dont believe he does exhausts anymore, but the cast manifold and downpipe are very nice units. You can get inconel studs and oil/water lines added as well.
10/10 quality. Lead time kinda sucks though.