Some guy with an NA NA in CA
11-01-2013, 07:44 PM
#1
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Some guy with an NA NA in CA
Hi everyone, I'm nobody.
Here's the car:
And here's the cat:
This is going into the car soon:
And after that will be this:
Both from a 10AE.
This will be going into the cat soon:
And after that will be this:
I apologize for my fat fingers and my awful cell phone camera.
Anyway, I'm here because despite your general obsession with trying to solve your deficiencies with more boost, there's comparatively few sideways wheels and 80 lb stereo systems around here. Also, Emilio, Moti, and Cord are pretty cool guys. Before I'm accused of stringing you all along to pad my post count, I'll try and fit everything remotely important in this first post.
The car is Monica; she started off life as a white '91 base model with AC and PS. At 190,000 miles now, AC and PS are gone, and now she's GM Bright Yellow. I added a Hard Dog Deuce (should pass the broomstick test once I get a pair of aluminum seats), a Koyo 55mm radiator (got it cheap on CL when my OE radiator tank decided to crack), and an Ebay steering wheel with an NRG hub (my airbag deployed after a 10 mph slide into a muddy embankment with no damage to the car).
My next modification is going to be to replace the blown 5MT with a 10AE 6 speed, and at the same time I'm going to be putting in a 7 lb NA6 Fidanza flywheel, new clutch hydraulics, Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, and an Ebay NA short shifter shortened by 3/16" to fit the NB1 6 speed along with an RSpeed rebuild kit.
After that is wheels (whatever I can get used for cheap: 6UL, RPF1, K1R, FlatOut, Team Dynamics SM, whatever) and Z2s, either OE Bilsteins with Ebay coilovers or used Teins, poly bushings, and a Racing Beat NB2 tubular FSB (at least that's what the FCM spreadsheet tells me I need if I want to keep neutral handling with the rear sway bar attached, but it seems a bit drastic to me). I'll be doing all of this at the same time that I swap in this Torsen diff I picked up along with the subframe for $350.
Engine mods are a long way away, after drivetrain, wheels, suspension, interior (gutting), brakes, aero, and a couple of other things that I know I'm forgetting right now but will come back to me soon. When I do get there, though, I'm thinking of a K24 swap, assuming the kit hits their price targets and it's still around by then, otherwise a BP-Z3 swap or some crazy ZL-VE 1.6L VVT hybrid bullshit because it would make me feel like a special snowflake. Or maybe something else will be available by then, who knows.
And while I've got your attention, what's the stroke length of an NB Bilstein, front and rear? Is there any appreciable difference in stroke between any two different Miata shocks/coilovers/whatever?
Now, please tell me why I'm retarded so I can get butthurt and boost my post count with a bunch of whiny, defensive replies and start buying your scraps.
Here's the car:
And here's the cat:
This is going into the car soon:
And after that will be this:
Both from a 10AE.
This will be going into the cat soon:
And after that will be this:
I apologize for my fat fingers and my awful cell phone camera.
Anyway, I'm here because despite your general obsession with trying to solve your deficiencies with more boost, there's comparatively few sideways wheels and 80 lb stereo systems around here. Also, Emilio, Moti, and Cord are pretty cool guys. Before I'm accused of stringing you all along to pad my post count, I'll try and fit everything remotely important in this first post.
The car is Monica; she started off life as a white '91 base model with AC and PS. At 190,000 miles now, AC and PS are gone, and now she's GM Bright Yellow. I added a Hard Dog Deuce (should pass the broomstick test once I get a pair of aluminum seats), a Koyo 55mm radiator (got it cheap on CL when my OE radiator tank decided to crack), and an Ebay steering wheel with an NRG hub (my airbag deployed after a 10 mph slide into a muddy embankment with no damage to the car).
My next modification is going to be to replace the blown 5MT with a 10AE 6 speed, and at the same time I'm going to be putting in a 7 lb NA6 Fidanza flywheel, new clutch hydraulics, Motorcraft XT-M5-QS, and an Ebay NA short shifter shortened by 3/16" to fit the NB1 6 speed along with an RSpeed rebuild kit.
After that is wheels (whatever I can get used for cheap: 6UL, RPF1, K1R, FlatOut, Team Dynamics SM, whatever) and Z2s, either OE Bilsteins with Ebay coilovers or used Teins, poly bushings, and a Racing Beat NB2 tubular FSB (at least that's what the FCM spreadsheet tells me I need if I want to keep neutral handling with the rear sway bar attached, but it seems a bit drastic to me). I'll be doing all of this at the same time that I swap in this Torsen diff I picked up along with the subframe for $350.
Engine mods are a long way away, after drivetrain, wheels, suspension, interior (gutting), brakes, aero, and a couple of other things that I know I'm forgetting right now but will come back to me soon. When I do get there, though, I'm thinking of a K24 swap, assuming the kit hits their price targets and it's still around by then, otherwise a BP-Z3 swap or some crazy ZL-VE 1.6L VVT hybrid bullshit because it would make me feel like a special snowflake. Or maybe something else will be available by then, who knows.
And while I've got your attention, what's the stroke length of an NB Bilstein, front and rear? Is there any appreciable difference in stroke between any two different Miata shocks/coilovers/whatever?
Now, please tell me why I'm retarded so I can get butthurt and boost my post count with a bunch of whiny, defensive replies and start buying your scraps.
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11-01-2013, 09:22 PM
#3
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 180
Total Cats: -30
Definitely more ferocity. I won't be satisfied until this thread is 20 pages of "hurr torbu stronk" "hurf durf tubro lag" "no, torbu stronk" "but muh throttle response" etc.
And thanks, her name is Jack.
And thanks, her name is Jack.
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11-01-2013, 09:56 PM
#5
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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No story, her name is just Jack. Anyway, I thought I'd say something about superchargers being superior to turbos in throttle response and low-end power, but I'm not really a fan of the "I was only pretending to be retarded" school of trolling. And doilies can't start a discussion because everyone knows that cloth is superior to paper, except for the incredibly intricate paper ones that you can't sneeze on because they'll fall apart. If someone has a bunch of those lying around and they're not in tatters, you know he's one badass ************.
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11-01-2013, 10:03 PM
#6
I don't think you're going to make it to two pages of hatred. You fit in too well.
Edit:
Man, you hid that well. Here's your hatred.
80LB stereo you *** your car will rattletopiecesandtoomuchweightandterriblesoundstag e (breathe) Sidewayswheelswhydontyoujustslideintoawallandsaveu sallthetrouble (gasp)
Any particular reason for the aversion to turboing the current engine? I can understand (sort of) waiting for the K24 swap kit, but that could be a long way away. It sounds like you know what you're doing, and that helps keep the cost of boost down.
Edit:
80LB stereo you *** your car will rattletopiecesandtoomuchweightandterriblesoundstag e (breathe) Sidewayswheelswhydontyoujustslideintoawallandsaveu sallthetrouble (gasp)
Any particular reason for the aversion to turboing the current engine? I can understand (sort of) waiting for the K24 swap kit, but that could be a long way away. It sounds like you know what you're doing, and that helps keep the cost of boost down.
Last edited by dieselmiata; 11-01-2013 at 10:17 PM.
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11-01-2013, 10:14 PM
#7
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Turbos are expensive. Really ******* expensive. I mean, I can get 200 whp from a BP-Z3 for $8k, easy. If I decided to go with a turbo, I'd start off with a used GReddy kit, then realize it's **** and swap in a BP and pick up a BEGi Shanghai kit, and then I'd want more power so I'd go buy an FM II kit, and then realize that all kits suck and the only way to do it right is to do it myself and build something crazy with an EFR 6258. All of a sudden I'm $28k in and I've got myself a 700 whp dyno queen that eats r-comps and forged conrods for breakfast. It's the way turbos work.
I figure I'm better off building my car to be cheaper to maintain and with longer service intervals than it had stock, while holding as much speed as possible through the corners.
I figure I'm better off building my car to be cheaper to maintain and with longer service intervals than it had stock, while holding as much speed as possible through the corners.
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11-01-2013, 10:27 PM
#8
Methinks you over estimate the costs. I know it can snowball out of control easily chasing perfect mods and HP, (ask Flying_Solo about his FD 
) but I'm only about $2K into my 200HP 1.6, and it's pretty damn quick. I'n not sure I actually want it much faster. Do you plan on tracking the car, and if so what kind? To be honest, with these cars it gets to the point of diminishing returns quickly. A 400HP Miata is not that much faster than a 250-300HP Miata due to traction issues.
Funny story, sort of related, when I lived in Japan I had a neighbor who had a 750HP Supra, and I would wipe the floor with him down the mountains in my bone stock 92 GTR. He just couldn't get any sort of traction.
) but I'm only about $2K into my 200HP 1.6, and it's pretty damn quick. I'n not sure I actually want it much faster. Do you plan on tracking the car, and if so what kind? To be honest, with these cars it gets to the point of diminishing returns quickly. A 400HP Miata is not that much faster than a 250-300HP Miata due to traction issues. Funny story, sort of related, when I lived in Japan I had a neighbor who had a 750HP Supra, and I would wipe the floor with him down the mountains in my bone stock 92 GTR. He just couldn't get any sort of traction.
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11-01-2013, 11:04 PM
#11
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I'll probably do some autocross or track days once I finish this transmission swap, but I won't be building for any class. The mountains are always going to be my first priority, everything else comes after that. Here's my home course, for reference: 
You can't really see how fun it is from this far out, but it's 50 miles of glorious twisty roads, rough enough that something breaks every time I go out. All of the putty attaching the hood skin to the skeleton failed last time (it was surprisingly loud), and the time before that I somehow lost my radiator cap on the downhill.
Anyway, I wouldn't refuse to to turbo my car if I got a kit for dirt cheap, but I prefer the sound and the simplicity and feel of an all motor build. It's kind of a moot point though, since I have several years worth of safety and handling mods lined up first.
You can't really see how fun it is from this far out, but it's 50 miles of glorious twisty roads, rough enough that something breaks every time I go out. All of the putty attaching the hood skin to the skeleton failed last time (it was surprisingly loud), and the time before that I somehow lost my radiator cap on the downhill.
Anyway, I wouldn't refuse to to turbo my car if I got a kit for dirt cheap, but I prefer the sound and the simplicity and feel of an all motor build. It's kind of a moot point though, since I have several years worth of safety and handling mods lined up first.
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11-02-2013, 12:25 AM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2013
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You mean this? 
This bit of 29 is more fun than just about anything, but it's too short and it's too far away from me, and the road there from my house is straight as an arrow.
My course is actually five roads: Trinity, Mt. Veeder, 121, 128, and Cantelow. Trinity is fairly technical, very vertical, and includes a Laguna Seca-style Corkscrew. Except there's two of them. Back to back. Next is a choice between Mt. Veeder or Dry Creek road, with Mt. Veeder being the curvier, but much rougher, of the two. 121 is okay once you get through Napa, but it's not as engaging. It's got a very definite rhythm to it though, and it's nice to just fall into it and meditate. 128 is always filled with boats going to and from Beryessa that refuse to turn out, so it's ****. Cantelow is a 1.5-lane roughly-paved road that's infested with bicyclists at all hours of the day, and includes an off camber triple apex corner that's absolutely terrifying if you let it catch you by surprise.
This bit of 29 is more fun than just about anything, but it's too short and it's too far away from me, and the road there from my house is straight as an arrow.
My course is actually five roads: Trinity, Mt. Veeder, 121, 128, and Cantelow. Trinity is fairly technical, very vertical, and includes a Laguna Seca-style Corkscrew. Except there's two of them. Back to back. Next is a choice between Mt. Veeder or Dry Creek road, with Mt. Veeder being the curvier, but much rougher, of the two. 121 is okay once you get through Napa, but it's not as engaging. It's got a very definite rhythm to it though, and it's nice to just fall into it and meditate. 128 is always filled with boats going to and from Beryessa that refuse to turn out, so it's ****. Cantelow is a 1.5-lane roughly-paved road that's infested with bicyclists at all hours of the day, and includes an off camber triple apex corner that's absolutely terrifying if you let it catch you by surprise.
Last edited by Failure; 11-02-2013 at 12:48 AM.
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