92Yata

I own a 1992 NA6 that I have had for a few years and have recently picked up a rusty 1995 NA as a parts car. (Canadian eh)
The 95 was a pretty good deal and came with a nice hardtop and with only 125000km.

The car was purchased not running and had sat for many years.
I did get the car running and sounded nice and healthy.
Compression and leak down test completed with good results.
Compression was 200,196,205,201
Leak Down 2%,7%,5%,8%

When I say rusty I mean it seemed as if the car sat in a swamp. It looked ok from afar but when viewing the undercarriage it was clear it was finished.
Let's just say it was so rusty underneath that the differential that I pulled from it was rusted right through. After cleaning the rust from the cast housing there were several holes in it.

So I ripped the car apart sold off a bunch of parts and have a large pile of extra parts some to keep and some to sell.

The plan is to clean up the 1.8 and add a turbo to install in my 92.
The motor is currently sitting on an engine stand in the garage.

To tell you a bit about myself, I am 50 yrs old and have been operating large industrial print finishing equipment for about 30 years.
I have been wrenching on cars, dirt bikes and snowmobiles since I was a teenager.
In my teens we installed a 350 chev engine into a Monza if you know what that is. Small car big engine.
Other than that I have not really done much other big performance mods until recently.
My Son is 19 and we purchased him a 2006 RSX Type S.
I can say we have spent plenty of hours wrenching on this car.
We just recently finished adding a turbo to this.
Dyno results were 350 whp at 12psi. Car is pretty crazy now in my opinion.

Sooooo its my turn. I want some boooost.
I'm not looking to get crazy here but if I end up in the 200whp range with a little pshhhh that would be cool.
I don't autocross or track the car (not yet anyway) and log about 5000km/ year driving on nice days.

My 1992 is a rust free car with about 240000km. currently has the 1.6 with headers and 2.5" catless exhaust.
The car is sitting on coilovers with some decent falken tires.

So I come here with a plan and looking to share and gain some advice on the direction and order of operation on the swap.

I am going to clean up the 1.8 and paint the block, valve cover, and intake manifold along with any other small metal bits to make it look a bit better.
Install new front and rear camshaft seals.
New valve cover gasket
New Cas o-ring.
As the pulleys on the 1.8 are pretty rusty. I was thinking I could swap over the new water pump, timing belt, plastic covers, crankshaft pulley, alternator, and power steering pump from the 1.6.
I did a timing belt and water pump not long ago on the 1.6.
I will also swap over the Exedy clutch and lightweight flywheel from my 1.6 since it's also not that old.
I am going to pull the pan off the 1.8 and install new half moon seals and weld in a -10an oil drain bung for the turbo.

I think I am going to try the Miata 89-93 PNP Speeduino ECU although I think I might get flamed for that choice as opposed to the MSPNP it just seems it will get the job done for much less.
Maybe I can be convinced to go megasquirt. Possibly the MSPNP2. Maybe a used one will pop up locally.

I am also going to go with the Kraken T25 GT 2554R & 2560R Kit Builder.
I think the top mount 2554 will suit my needs.
Shipping from Bulgaria is actually pretty decent.
I am considering keeping my 2.5" exhaust and ansa muffler and adapting the 3" downpipe maybe with a 3" to 2.5" v-band reducer.
I am not sure if this is something I should do or just go for the full 3" exhaust?

So I have read the flyin miata swap guide a few times and I don't think I have wrapped my head around everything yet.

I am considering the coolant reroute from moss miata since the motor is out so that would take care of the temp sensor for the fan?
If I don't do the coolant reroute then I wonder will the speedyefi control it?
Am I still going to need to swap over my two-wire coolant sensor with a standalone ecu?
A little confused here on how this will play out.

So I am going to need to swap oil pressure sender....I get this. Although I may be swapping out dashes but anyway the oil pressure sender will follow the cluster being used.

So with the standalone ECU I can delete the MAF and install an IAC sensor (Idle air control)
Mount right before throttle body. Weld in bung.
SpeedyEFI will get this done?

So I can use the 1.8 CAS I just need to extend the wire harness. Easy enough.

So for the throttle body...what to do?
Do I need the TPS?
I should alter the 1.6s wiring to accommodate the 1.8 TPS ?
Will the speedyEFI work with this?

I have the throttle cable from the 1.8 just might be a pain to swap this. Maybe the adapter from FM would be much easier?

Ignition coils
With the standalone ECU should I still swap to the 1.6 coil pack with the FM bracket or I can use the 1.8 coilpack?
I have to rewire something to use the 1.8 coilpack?
Not sure here?

EGR...I mean can I just make a block off plate for the intake manifold or use the EGR pipe and weld it closed?

So the Miata has a return fuel system already with a vacuum sourced FPR already. So there is no need to modify this system?
Fuel pressure will rise with boost?
I see I need to remove a PRC solenoid in the vacuum line and run the vacuum line directly to the fpr.
No need to add an adjustable FPR when adding boost to the miata?

So , I thought I would share my story to see if I am missing anything.
I am curious if I need any of the the FM swap kit.
Maybe the coil pack adapter bracket and throttle cable bracket?

Should I just get the whole FM swap kit and get the engine running again in my car and then start the turbo upgrade?
Am I asking for trouble if I do too much at once?

Cheers
J

92Yata

Houleo

You seem to have quite a bit of wrenching experience, based on your questions it seems you need to research ecu upgrades on this platform to make an informed decision. You should find the wiring diagrams for your chassis and the 95, to help you understand the differences of the controls/sensors. Also get the pinout diagram for the ecu you are purchasing.

I have no direct experience but have been reading build threads here and on other sites, in preparation for my swap. The typical 1.6>1.8 swap assumes you will be using 1.6 harness and ecu, so the typical rule of thum is all electronics from the 1.6 are installed on the 1.8 engine. Since you are installing an aftermarket ecu you can install the better preforming components as your not limited by the stock ecu.

The 95 engine has sequential injection, the 1.6 harness is set up for batch (unless it’s a CA car, don’t know what you got in Canada), I would add wiring for sequential
There are 3 cooling sensors, one for the dash, one for the ecu and one that is a switch that activates the fan. You can leave it alone, or eliminate the switch and have the ecu control the fan
I have seen many people suggest locating the IAT near the outlet of the intercooler, or end tank due to heat soak from locating behind the radiator.
I believe the 95 engine should have a variable TPS, use it, vtps provides more better control and ease of tuning.

looking forward to following you on your journey

92Yata

Some progress. New water pump, timing belt, crankshaft seals, camshaft seals, cas seal, cleaned and painted.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Looks like you have answers to lots of your questions. Welcome to the forum.

Re-consider a cooling re-route.

92 looks nice.

DNM

92Yata

I am still moving along with my 1.8 Turbo project.
I Installed a Speedyefi and AEM wideband on my stock 1.6. I now have it tuned and driving safely. I wanted to get this functioning and a bit familiar before the swap. Done.
I purchased the full kraken Turbo kit with 3" exhaust.
Included with the kit was their nice cast manifold, Garrett 2560r Turbo, Turbo smart Bov, 5.5 inch height intercooler, Bosch 700cc injectors and associated piping, lines and fittings.
I also took the community's advice and purchased a coolant reroute kit. I went with the skidnation kit with a silicone hose to match the other hoses I replaced.
Starting to shape up.

92Yata

92Yata

I had replaced the clutch in my 1.6 a couple of years ago maybe 12k on it. Installed a OEM exedy kit with a lightweight fidenza flywheel. I was planning on using this on my Turbo 1.8 with power goals around 200-220.
The Spec's of this clutch tell me this is probably not going to cut it.
So now what to do?
Do I use the the lightweight 1.6 flywheel with an upgraded clutch to stage 1 or 2 or resurface my 1.8 flywheel or purchase another lightweight flywheel?
Now to sort through the gazillion threads on which clutch to purchase for my street car.
Alot of recommendations on the fm1 happy meal and also some bad ones. Anyone know who makes their clutch kits?
Uggg

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Supermiata makes (sells) organic clutches for either 1.6 or 1.8 flywheels. Pretty sure that the 1.6 will hold the power / torque goals you have.

My FM1 did not hold torque for long at all. Waste of $$$.

DNM