Silverguy80

Now what to do to it as far as performance mods/performance upgrades?


I don't even know where to start...need to to stay dependable is key. I'm thinking cold air intake and catback exhaust. I don't want the exhaust load though. Low grumble or rumble. Whatever you want to call it. Probably the quietest performance exhaust made.


So my dad talked me into buying a miata, because I loved the 2004 mini copper s I owned. I hated it though because I spent over $10k on repairs and upgrades. My pops has 2 miatas for now. He almost bought another one the other day. (Chevy LS V8 swapped miata) He has a turbo miata NA around 350 or 450 hp. I haven't seen it in person or driven it yet. His daily is an ND miata I think.


So any advice on performance upgrades I should do right off the start? My Dad says to leave it stock but he knows I don't know how to do that.


What's going to get the most bang for buck without putting a turbo or supercharger on it and mega squirt system?


I know y'all probably get this type of questions all the time...so I apologize in advance and thank you in advance for any advice or input.

Silverguy80

I've been a car guy my whole life. I just know nothing about miatas and dang there's a ton of information to sort through. My dad is no help at all.

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

You are going to have a rough start with an intro like this. Your really need to read and research. This very questions gets asked 3-5 times a week from new guys. The best possible thing you could do is to start with a megasquirt, supermiata big grip kit and some good wheels and tires.

concealer404

iTrader: (3)

You need the following:

Xidas
SadFAB delrin bushings
Racing Beat 1.125" front bar, 949 Racing rear bar
Trackspeed Dynapro 11.75" brake kit w/ Wilwood master cylinder and Sport rear disc swap
Trackspeed EFR 6258 or 6758 turbo kit
MSPNP Pro
ID1000s
949 twin disc clutch
Trackspeed 8.6:1 VVT motor
OS Giken rear diff
Singular brake ducts
6 speed trans and 3.63 rear end if you don't already have them
FIA 6 point harnesses for both you and your passenger
FIA Halo containment seats for both you and your passenger
Full fire suppression system
37 or great point cage
Window and center nets


If you aren't willing to do all that, you may as well junk the car now. Will be literally undriveable.

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

Dont forget

Trackspeed Radiator

borka

iTrader: (1)

Are you modding for the sake of modding?
You need to vision a goal for the car?

Street car?
Autox?
Track?

Looks?
Grip?
Speed?

What do YOU want out of the car?

Intake/exhaust is waste of money if you are looking for performance gains.
Just more noise or pleasing sounds depending on choices made on exhsust.

bahurd

iTrader: (8)

I bought a Cooper S in 2004 new. One of most fun cars I've owned and thinking of buying another for ***** & giggles.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

Then after all that, you pull off the turbo and go back to that Naturally Aspirated life.

Silverguy80

Well I apologize. I have been reading a lot. There's just way more information than I am used too. I'm used to cars where maybe there is 1 or 2 forums for them. A couple sites for performance parts and a couple of sites for stock parts. My first build was a 1962 Volvo pv544. I built it to rally specs. I'd upload a picture but haven't figured it out yet. I'm honestly overwhelmed because there is so many parts available and information available.

Silverguy80

I only got that car to break traction once. I had to lift both wheels on one side to break traction. It was in a sharp corner that was banked wrong completely to the outside. Every corner I threw it into it would stick no matter the speed. I tried to roll it and couldn't roll it. 60 mph llus cut the wheel as hard and as fast as you can and it just went that direction. I'd be driving like a grandma and people would be scared shitless for some reason.

Grantpro

In all honesty, just keep doing research. I've been a lurker for over a year, and purchased my car without reading on here first. Could have saved myself a **** load of time and money if i did my research before my purchase. Regardless though, whatever you do, do it right the first time.

Silverguy80

I would like it to be performance oriented street car. So get more power out of the motor but not build to the point of losing dependability of the car. I also want the exhaust to growl and rubble but not be obnoxiously loud. I've got a vintage chopper for when I want to be loud.

I'll upgrade suspension and brakes next.

As far as looks it has to be a very clean car build. No big rear wing or anything like that nonsense for a driver car. I think less is more when it comes to appearance of a car.

I may autocross race it once in a while when I buy another second vehicle. I've been selling all my vehicles. I'm selling the heard and starting over with different vehicles.

Grantpro

I don't see any point in getting big brakes unless you're going for boost, personally. I second what mat russell said. MS & wheels/tires. Grip kit. Add some weight loss if you don't care about things like your spare, jack, etc.

Silverguy80

I have stock wheels on it now with a decent tire on it. Its Goodyear tires I think. I'm looking for a light weight wheels to put on it. What do you recommend as far as wheels? Is it better to run the 15" or upgrade to 16" or 17"? What's good traction tires on the miata? What's good size wheel combination as far as sizes? Do people stance the wheels? Not stance where looks like suspension is broken and tires stretched on too wide of rim. Stanced where you run a wider rear wheel and tire combination. Like on pro tour car or how BMW does their wheels on most cars. Ok so I am going to start looking more into a megasqirt system. I read you can shave the head .0004" 4 thousands of an inch and get 10ish to 1 compression out of the miata motor. I might do that soon.

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

15x9 225/45R15

Silverguy80

That's what I'm trying to do and "do it right the first time, or don't do it at all, because it will take twice as long or cost twice as much if you don't do it right the first time." Is my favorite quote. I just don't know where to start reading.

Silverguy80

Thank you! I'm guessing same size wheel and tire front and rear?

matrussell122

iTrader: (1)

Yep

borka

iTrader: (1)

If you value reliability, do not touch your low mileage engine. dont open it, dont deck it, dont shave it. leave it alone.

only open up the engine if you are committed to a full on build/rebuild with performance parts.

Wheels:
most popupar wheels are 15x8 (205 &225 tire size) and 15x9 (225-245 tires)
for 15x9 wheels you will need to install coilovers as wheels wont clear stock diameter springs.
most popular names are 949 racing 6UL, Advanti Storm, jonglboad and a few other names.

Coilovers: dont cheap out here, in my experience a good midrange setup is BC racing ($1100), and best setup is Xidas ($2200)

Brakes: you are fine with stock brakes, just add good pads. stoptech sport, hawks hps etc...

Exhaust: Racing beat and FlyinMiata makes good sounding, not loud exhausts, i've owned racing beat exhausts and they sound good, not loud and deep.

Also many upgrade the exhaust header and downpipe to a 2001-2005 miata style, its a bolt on swap and this design tubular header flows better than 99-00 cast iron piece.

Add a real rollbar if you want to drive spirited curves, autox, track etc...Track dog is a popular one.

for a stock engine, best performance mods for the $$$ will be the, the 01 header, aftermarket exhaust and megasquirt ecu.

dont expect drastic gains, without a fully built engine or turbo, you'll probably gain 10-20hp at most with i/e/h/tune

Grantpro

i think you’re referring to staggered wheels/tires. This is something that mustangs/muscle cars/etc do.