Yet another FNG
11-09-2016, 03:56 PM
#1
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 1
Yet another FNG
Hello all,
Just trying to introduce myself. Quick Facts coming at you.
Location: Central AL
Car: 1991 NA6 MT Classic Red (mostly stock) 290K on the clock.
Options: Color matched Hard Top, power steering, AC
Current Mods: Torsen LSD from a 95 NA8, FM tow package.
I drive this car every day, so with that in mind I have set the following goal and a plan for the mods to get me there.
Goal: reliable DD with ~200-250 wtq.
Planned Mods:
1.8 from a 95 is being rebuilt now. (100k miles on it) Not looking to make a monster, yet so it will be a mild build with mostly OEM parts. Unless there is something I simply must do before turboing.
Turbo with supporting mods (Currently thinking hard about the MK Turbo set up)
FM Stage 1 Clutch
MegaSquirt of some kind, I'm trying to figure out who to buy it from and which model I need. I have no plans on going to VVT or E85 if that means anything. I would love some input here as I am trying to get this mod done prior to the engine swap so I can confirm the aftermarket ECU runs with a known good engine.
About me: Newly wed, wife is prepared for all I want to do to this car. I've been turning wrenches for the better part of my life. I have no qualms diving into a project like the engine swap mentioned above. However, I have only dabbled in the world of forced induction, so I am looking to find a kit that has good instructions with a solid customer support base. I have or have access to all of the hand tools I could need, anything else I can borrow from work.
Questions, comments? Let me know!
Picture of the car with my other hobby, riding a very large mountain bike. No worries, I've since upgraded to a hitch mount bike rack.
Just trying to introduce myself. Quick Facts coming at you.
Location: Central AL
Car: 1991 NA6 MT Classic Red (mostly stock) 290K on the clock.
Options: Color matched Hard Top, power steering, AC
Current Mods: Torsen LSD from a 95 NA8, FM tow package.
I drive this car every day, so with that in mind I have set the following goal and a plan for the mods to get me there.
Goal: reliable DD with ~200-250 wtq.
Planned Mods:
1.8 from a 95 is being rebuilt now. (100k miles on it) Not looking to make a monster, yet so it will be a mild build with mostly OEM parts. Unless there is something I simply must do before turboing.
Turbo with supporting mods (Currently thinking hard about the MK Turbo set up)
FM Stage 1 Clutch
MegaSquirt of some kind, I'm trying to figure out who to buy it from and which model I need. I have no plans on going to VVT or E85 if that means anything. I would love some input here as I am trying to get this mod done prior to the engine swap so I can confirm the aftermarket ECU runs with a known good engine.
About me: Newly wed, wife is prepared for all I want to do to this car. I've been turning wrenches for the better part of my life. I have no qualms diving into a project like the engine swap mentioned above. However, I have only dabbled in the world of forced induction, so I am looking to find a kit that has good instructions with a solid customer support base. I have or have access to all of the hand tools I could need, anything else I can borrow from work.
Questions, comments? Let me know!
Picture of the car with my other hobby, riding a very large mountain bike. No worries, I've since upgraded to a hitch mount bike rack.
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11-09-2016, 04:08 PM
#3
While you have the 1.8 on the stand....
Would definitely do a coolant re-route, its a pain in the *** while the engine is in the car. There are plenty of kits out there and some members on here sell the various parts for it.
ARP studs if you want cheap insurance, built/forged bottom end for more expensive insurance.
Tap the oil pan while its out and in front of you... instead of having to work around the subframe.
Would definitely do a coolant re-route, its a pain in the *** while the engine is in the car. There are plenty of kits out there and some members on here sell the various parts for it.
ARP studs if you want cheap insurance, built/forged bottom end for more expensive insurance.
Tap the oil pan while its out and in front of you... instead of having to work around the subframe.
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11-09-2016, 04:21 PM
#5
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 1
welcome
you must get rods for 250wtq
you must get rods for 250wtq
Should staying under 250wtq leave me able to keep the stock rods?
as for the 2nd - ms3x
While you have the 1.8 on the stand....
Would definitely do a coolant re-route, its a pain in the *** while the engine is in the car. There are plenty of kits out there and some members on here sell the various parts for it.
ARP studs if you want cheap insurance, built/forged bottom end for more expensive insurance.
Tap the oil pan while its out and in front of you... instead of having to work around the subframe.
Would definitely do a coolant re-route, its a pain in the *** while the engine is in the car. There are plenty of kits out there and some members on here sell the various parts for it.
ARP studs if you want cheap insurance, built/forged bottom end for more expensive insurance.
Tap the oil pan while its out and in front of you... instead of having to work around the subframe.
ARP studs are ordered. Not looking to build a bullet proof bottom end at this point, it's just not in the budget. I'll be keeping everything conservative enough to keep it all kosher.
Noted on the oil pan.
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11-09-2016, 04:34 PM
#7
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 1
the rule of thumb round here is 250whp, which would be around 230wtq
rev, brain, or diy.
rev, brain, or diy.
I've contacted brain, got one reply but it's gone radio silence since then. I'll send out messages to rev and matt c. of DIY.
thanks again.
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11-09-2016, 04:57 PM
#8
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Brain picks and chooses when he builds MS based on his schedule and when he needs money to buy camera parts. I will pester him to respond to you. DIY would be where I go after him.
Get rods in your motor if you have it apart. If you are to upgrade anything in it, that should be first. Use all OEM from Mazda gaskets when putting the motor back together. I have seen to many other branded ones leak to ever trust them.
I am also not sure if my MKTurbo setup and muffler I use works with the FM trailer hitch. Never had one to try, but the muffler is pretty bit so I think there might be some fitment issues.
Get rods in your motor if you have it apart. If you are to upgrade anything in it, that should be first. Use all OEM from Mazda gaskets when putting the motor back together. I have seen to many other branded ones leak to ever trust them.
I am also not sure if my MKTurbo setup and muffler I use works with the FM trailer hitch. Never had one to try, but the muffler is pretty bit so I think there might be some fitment issues.
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11-09-2016, 07:17 PM
#10
Newb
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 31
Total Cats: 1
Get rods in your motor if you have it apart. If you are to upgrade anything in it, that should be first. Use all OEM from Mazda gaskets when putting the motor back together. I have seen to many other branded ones leak to ever trust them.
I am also not sure if my MKTurbo setup and muffler I use works with the FM trailer hitch. Never had one to try, but the muffler is pretty bit so I think there might be some fitment issues.
I am also not sure if my MKTurbo setup and muffler I use works with the FM trailer hitch. Never had one to try, but the muffler is pretty bit so I think there might be some fitment issues.
So far as potential fitment issues with the FM trailer hitch I'll do a little digging around to see if I can come up with a solid answer before ordering. I'll share any info I can dig up should you have future customers with a similar question.
i was busy with dying cats and vacation.
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11-09-2016, 11:02 PM
#11
Thanks!
Should staying under 250wtq leave me able to keep the stock rods?
Have any insights as to whom I should buy it from?
The only re-route kit I've seen is the FM one. Are there better or more economical options for it?
ARP studs are ordered. Not looking to build a bullet proof bottom end at this point, it's just not in the budget. I'll be keeping everything conservative enough to keep it all kosher.
Noted on the oil pan.
Should staying under 250wtq leave me able to keep the stock rods?
Have any insights as to whom I should buy it from?
The only re-route kit I've seen is the FM one. Are there better or more economical options for it?
ARP studs are ordered. Not looking to build a bullet proof bottom end at this point, it's just not in the budget. I'll be keeping everything conservative enough to keep it all kosher.
Noted on the oil pan.
Then I ordered the hose that runs all the way to the front. (Look on revlimiter.net for the part #.)
Made my own block off plate for the front.
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11-10-2016, 09:54 AM
#12
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,664
Total Cats: 3,013
Welcome to the forum. It sounds like you have a good handle on what's going on.
You'll likely need an upgraded radiator if you haven't already. I'm on the mobile app right now so I can't scroll up and check if you mentioned it.
You'll likely need an upgraded radiator if you haven't already. I'm on the mobile app right now so I can't scroll up and check if you mentioned it.
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