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This is the answer. It will tell you everything you need to buy and how to assemble it all.
Could you help me with some information please? My MS is up and running on test mode, but have a few questions. Everyone seems to be ignoring my questions at the end of this post.
Thank you Bahurd, I figured the Jimstim out already. Can you help me with the potentio meter settings? Like can anyone give me an exact ohm measurement on the pots?
Thank you Bahurd, I figured the Jimstim out already. Can you help me with the potentio meter settings? Like can anyone give me an exact ohm measurement on the pots?
I didn't build mine, but looking over some of the DIY stuff I read this: "
The trim pots on a V3.0 board take about 18 turns from fully off to maximum value, and you can often hear a click when they reach the end of their travel. The V3.57 pots are about 6 turns end to end, and they just free-spin after you reach the end of their travel. If you’re not sure where you are with the pot on a V3.57, give it six turns counterclockwise to get back to zero. MS3X trim pots work the same way as V3.57 trim pots. Note that you can’t actually measure the hysteresis or trigger voltages directly.
I also think you can use the Jimstim to adjust the signal?
Using the Tooth Logger or Composite Logger to adjust the VR conditioner
If you don’t have an oscilloscope, the tuning software has a couple of different tools you can use to get things adjusted. The Tooth Logger is available in TunerStudio and MegaTunix, and works for MS1/Extra, MS2/Extra, or MS3. It displays just the crank trigger. The Composite Logger is a feature of TunerStudio and works for MS2/Extra and MS3. The Composite Logger looks like an output signal on the oscilloscope. Using either one requires you to know what the signal coming in should look like. Like with an oscilloscope, you should start with R56 and R52 (R11 and R32 on an MS3X) fully counterclockwise.
The Tooth Logger displays the time between signals, and works best for basic missing tooth wheels. With one of these, you should see one small bar for every real tooth, and a single large bar for the missing tooth. If there is one missing tooth, the bar is twice the height of the others; it’s three times the height for two missing teeth. If you see a bunch of other, teeny-tiny bars, turn R56 (R11 for the MS3X) clockwise until they go away. If the extra tall bar is replaced by two extra tall bars, the sensor is wired backwards.
Using the Composite Logger requires knowing what the pattern should look like. If you are seeing pulses that shouldn’t be there, turn R56 clockwise until they disappear. If pulses that should be there show up,turn R56 counterclockwise until you see them. Hysteresis adjustment with the Composite Logger is the same as with an oscilloscope – turn up R52 (R32 on the MS3X) if you see extra pulses at the edges, like this.
You guys are awesome! Thank you very much. Sadly, Im getting lost in the language way too often. Well Im going to finish my harness tomorrow. Need to figure a way out to merge 3 cables into one since X24 is being used 3x.
I might have had some eyesight problem or the wiring diagram changed. Vtcs goes to x25, and low battery goes somewhere else too. Soon my wiring is done. I'm going to recheck it. The Miata is up and running on forged internals. Did the coolant reroute too. Didn't drive it yet since I have a hash in my soft top and it's raining in OH.
This was a work in progress haha.
So I have two issues so far, one of them seems to be related to the vr pots, found Brain settings on the forum ( my car won't rev over 3k ). https://www.miataturbo.net/megasquir...ar-msx3-72310/ #14, this doesnt apply for me since on my board I have one adjustable and 2 on the expansion board. I think im going to log whats happening. Sitting a bit clueless.
The other problem is, it wants to idle super high with the IAC plugged in. It revs up hits 3k drops down a little, revs up drops down endlessly around 3k almost 4k. Going to adjust the pots again and see. Any leads, Braineack?
Changed my 36-2 trigger wheel to the oem one. No more sync loss, but 1 and 4 quit firing. Both coils have 12 volts on the connectors and I swapped them and they both work in 2-3 position. God help me with this car.
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