See that post...

 

And something like this helps a bunch

 

Thanks

 

I hope you're not hoping to guilt me into tuning your car or fixing all your problems.

Just looked at the tune, plenty of issues I see in no particular order:
idle control valve completely disabled
general sensor settings highly filtered
incorporate afr disabled
idle area ve cells and surrounding cells completely uneven
your mat air density table starts pulling fuel after 100F
and your EGO correction is completely disabled

I would never expect a car to idle right with that map. I also don't see how this would in any shape be related to your question about battery voltage. (that may be a separate issue)

So basically start reading/learning and come back and start asking better, more specific questions. Mixing two different topics isn't going to net a very productive thread.

oh and your 1.6 with batch fueling and an ms2 is probably not going to perfectly idle at 14.7, a more realistic target afr would be 14ish

 

I thought it was a really strong attempt at a guilt tune

made some adjustments to warm up enrichment table and now it will at least stay running. I will see about the IAT table sound like an issue. I turned the iacv back on and who knows it still surging hard lean to rich....


I did get my logger working, I will get a log once i have a chance with the new settings, and upload the new tune....

I have changed the target afrs to be 12.5 at idle just to keep it running,

 

Can you elaborate on these two please:

general sensor settings highly filtered - Where can i see / change this in TS?
incorporate afr disabled - ""


Also, should i be using 100% tpsdot? currently 50%

 

basic/load settings > general settings.

50%/sec works fine for me

 

Thanks. Here is what I have before tuning

 

So I found this to be caused by the Accel enrich bring triggered at idle,

Turned to 100% tpsdot and ran the threshold at 80%/s and it appears to work better.

Change dashpot to 3% and it stopped stalling when I let out coming to a stop

 

...and, since no one seemed to address the question about the voltage, I thought I'd add in my $0.02.

NA alternators are "self exciting". That means that the field windings don't turn on when the ignition switch is turned on like they do with the NB and above alterntors. They require that the alternator is turning above a certain RPM before they switch on. After that happens, the field windings are energized and the alternator starts putting out normal charge voltage until the RPMs drops to zero.

I found that out when I swapped in a NA alternator into my NB (because they're cheaper to buy and are self-regulating, and ultimately I wanted to use a higher-output RX-7 alternator) and experienced the same problem as you are - no charge voltage until I revved beyond 2K RPM.

So, you can either;
- Live with it as-is
- Take the alternator to a electrical shop and find out why it doesn't "excite" at a lower RPM (then repair/replace)
- Do what I did, and put in a switch in the cockpit that sends 12v to the appropriate pin on the alt to "switch it on" regardless of the RPM. That works with the FD alt, don't know if it works on a NA alt.