5V Oil pressure from MS3 Basic to Canchecked
#1
5V Oil pressure from MS3 Basic to Canchecked
I have a 5V oil pressure sensor installed at the analog input of my MS3 Basic. I read somewhere, that this signal will not be forwarded to the Canchecked display. Is this true?
If not, do I need to setup something in Tunerstudio?
If yes, can I split the sensor's signal cable and send it to the analog input of Canchecked and MS3 parallel?
If not, do I need to setup something in Tunerstudio?
If yes, can I split the sensor's signal cable and send it to the analog input of Canchecked and MS3 parallel?
#2
I'm actually in the same position, as I would like to add a 3 wire oil pressure sensor, since the CANcheck gauge replaces the factory dummy gauge. Base on my understanding, if your MS can see it, so can the can check gauge. I'm new to using MS, and tunerstudio. But I think you should be able to wire it to an options port, to allowed the MS to see oil pressure. But if not, the CANcheck gauge has 12v, 5, G, to add additional sensors if your standalone isnt able to do so. I have a MS3pro.
I'm still in the process of getting my car back up, and running after adding the CANcheck gauge, so if I find out anything else I'll be sure to let you know.
I'm still in the process of getting my car back up, and running after adding the CANcheck gauge, so if I find out anything else I'll be sure to let you know.
#3
I just posted the question to "Miata Megasquirt Tuning" on facebook.
So I've gotten 2 answers kind of confirming what I mentioned. (under the cover of the computer) your going to jump pins J13 to allow for the computer to supply 5v reference, ground the sensor, and run your low reference back to one of your open analog inputs on the options port connector. I'll be using port D, and I have my wideband ran to port C. I was orginally thinking I would need to go to ports K, L, M, or N.
Also talking with a friend, I'm going to use a GM oil pressure sensor, as it should already be a 0-100 linear sensor for .5v-4.5v. And is also 1/8-27 NPT thread. No its not exactly what the miata oil pressure sensor thread pitch is. But my buddy has been using that thread pitch for years with no issue. So I'm going to give it a shot.
After that, I believe you should be able to just select the option port, and tell TS what that sensor is. But I'll have to confirm that after I do this install on my car.
So I've gotten 2 answers kind of confirming what I mentioned. (under the cover of the computer) your going to jump pins J13 to allow for the computer to supply 5v reference, ground the sensor, and run your low reference back to one of your open analog inputs on the options port connector. I'll be using port D, and I have my wideband ran to port C. I was orginally thinking I would need to go to ports K, L, M, or N.
Also talking with a friend, I'm going to use a GM oil pressure sensor, as it should already be a 0-100 linear sensor for .5v-4.5v. And is also 1/8-27 NPT thread. No its not exactly what the miata oil pressure sensor thread pitch is. But my buddy has been using that thread pitch for years with no issue. So I'm going to give it a shot.
After that, I believe you should be able to just select the option port, and tell TS what that sensor is. But I'll have to confirm that after I do this install on my car.
#4
In the meantime I could tell you, that the signal will be forwarded with the other signals via CAN high and low. There seems to be an issue with the Canchecked firmware, the value shown in the display is only 1/10 of the real value (shown in Tunerstudio). An upgrade to the latest firmware should solve that, but in my case it didn't. Apart from this the display works fine.
For power supply, I connected the display to the supply of the analog gauge that the back of the cluster (2 screws), that's the easiest solution.
For power supply, I connected the display to the supply of the analog gauge that the back of the cluster (2 screws), that's the easiest solution.
#5
Tweaking Enginerd
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Be sure to ask your buddy about the JBweld/Teflon tape he is using.
Sheesh man, do it right, do it once. There are many options out there, threading a NPT into that port is near or at the bottom.
Sheesh man, do it right, do it once. There are many options out there, threading a NPT into that port is near or at the bottom.
#6
Cpt. Slow
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When I was using a Perfect Tuning CAN gauge, you could select sensor 1-10. You couldn't change their name like you can with TS gauges, but if you knew which is which, you could still monitor it. So go to "generic sensor inputs", label one "oil pressure", assign it the analog input you wired it to, enter the calibration, and voila, you'll have oil pressure logged as "oil pressure", but on your CAN gauge it may only display "sensor 01".
#8
If you are aware of a sensor that will work please lmk. I dont know where I got that a GM senor would fit, the thread size isnt even close. So I'm still on the hunt for one.
#10
Tweaking Enginerd
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Well if it has already been cross threaded by the PO, that sucks. Back in the olden days most of us used the TSE adapter or similar. Decent pressure transducers are usually only available in NPT. I currently install the Honeywell MIPAN2XXPSAAX for most of my oil pressure transducers. Steel fittings of all gender-bender varieties are available from industrial supply places. Oil filter relocation almost always results in spare 1/8 NPT ports. Most of the turbo kit suppliers have some sort of a oil feed solution for that port.
These are self sealing threads (when done properly) and don't require sealant. Nothing worse than finding out you killed a head or a turbo with teflon tape in a pressure sensor fitting.
These are self sealing threads (when done properly) and don't require sealant. Nothing worse than finding out you killed a head or a turbo with teflon tape in a pressure sensor fitting.
#11
Well if it has already been cross threaded by the PO, that sucks. Back in the olden days most of us used the TSE adapter or similar. Decent pressure transducers are usually only available in NPT. I currently install the Honeywell MIPAN2XXPSAAX for most of my oil pressure transducers. Steel fittings of all gender-bender varieties are available from industrial supply places. Oil filter relocation almost always results in spare 1/8 NPT ports. Most of the turbo kit suppliers have some sort of a oil feed solution for that port.
These are self sealing threads (when done properly) and don't require sealant. Nothing worse than finding out you killed a head or a turbo with teflon tape in a pressure sensor fitting.
Example like old TSE
These are self sealing threads (when done properly) and don't require sealant. Nothing worse than finding out you killed a head or a turbo with teflon tape in a pressure sensor fitting.
Example like old TSE
#12
Regarding the sensor thread, the original sensor has a R1/8 DIN2999 thread. You find the same thread at the back of the head, where I installed my sensor. I used a Raid HP T-adapter to install it and closed the end with the plug that was originally in the head.
The advantage is, it fits well with the 90 degree angle and I could measure the pressure in the head not directly behind the pump.
This is the adapter: https://www.ezt-autoteile.de/zusatzi...e-r1/8-din2999
Maybe you find something similar. With this adapter you can use every 1/8-27NPTF sensor.
#13
That's correct and I did this, when I installed the sensor. In Tunerstudio it shows the correct values. But when this value is transferred to the Canchecked display, it shows the value with decimal point at the wrong position. I contacted Canchecked and they send me a new firmware to fix this, but I didn't find the time to check this yet.
Regarding the sensor thread, the original sensor has a R1/8 DIN2999 thread. You find the same thread at the back of the head, where I installed my sensor. I used a Raid HP T-adapter to install it and closed the end with the plug that was originally in the head.
The advantage is, it fits well with the 90 degree angle and I could measure the pressure in the head not directly behind the pump.
This is the adapter: https://www.ezt-autoteile.de/zusatzi...e-r1/8-din2999
Maybe you find something similar. With this adapter you can use every 1/8-27NPTF sensor.
Regarding the sensor thread, the original sensor has a R1/8 DIN2999 thread. You find the same thread at the back of the head, where I installed my sensor. I used a Raid HP T-adapter to install it and closed the end with the plug that was originally in the head.
The advantage is, it fits well with the 90 degree angle and I could measure the pressure in the head not directly behind the pump.
This is the adapter: https://www.ezt-autoteile.de/zusatzi...e-r1/8-din2999
Maybe you find something similar. With this adapter you can use every 1/8-27NPTF sensor.
I do like that location, and reasoning behind it. I might use your idea when I get around to getting mine set up.
How much of a PITA is it to change the the layout of the displays, with the specific sensor readings I want displayed?
#15
Back to the oil pressure line. I use these Autometer adaptors on all my Japanese engines.
Perfect for the job. Much better than messing uop the thread in the block with a direct npt insert.
https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to...-pressure.html
Perfect for the job. Much better than messing uop the thread in the block with a direct npt insert.
https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to...-pressure.html
#16
Back to the oil pressure line. I use these Autometer adaptors on all my Japanese engines.
Perfect for the job. Much better than messing uop the thread in the block with a direct npt insert.
https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to...-pressure.html
Perfect for the job. Much better than messing uop the thread in the block with a direct npt insert.
https://www.autometer.com/1-8-npt-to...-pressure.html