96 w/ megasquirt
03-27-2006, 12:09 PM
#21
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Quebec, Canada
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Use MegaTune 2.25 and I'm using the Extra code 29J. Seems to give me good result. http://megasquirt.sourceforge.net/extra/files/alpha/
Do you have it running? What version of the code you run? It can be interesting to setup at first. But once you do a couple of firmware update, it flow smoothly.
Watch out taking control of the stock ignition. Here is a thread you might find interesting. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...97#post1734897
About removing the Q6 and Q8.
Here is another thread you might want to read.
http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=16990
Tell us how everything goes please.
Do you have it running? What version of the code you run? It can be interesting to setup at first. But once you do a couple of firmware update, it flow smoothly.
Watch out taking control of the stock ignition. Here is a thread you might find interesting. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...97#post1734897
About removing the Q6 and Q8.
Here is another thread you might want to read.
http://msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=16990
Tell us how everything goes please.
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03-28-2006, 07:21 PM
#22
I'm still having a 'liitle' trouble with the firmware update portion.
I won't be the last person to have this problem either.. Look at all the people that had trouble updating their EM Blue.
When your software and Firmware don't match, the car runs, but the settings don't stay--MS thinks my engine is 350CID
Here's where I'm having trouble:
Now, you need to copy the msns-extra.ini that was in the Extra zip into
C:\Program Files\Megasquirt\Megatune2.25bXXX\MtCfg
The easiest way to do this is to run the copyini.bat provided in the Extra zip.
Go back to where you extracted it, e.g. c:\efi\024s9 and double-click on copyini.bat - this will update Megatune with the right ini file (this tells it what menus to display etc.)
This only works for the specified Megatune version If you installed a different version you will have to copy the file by hand.
Now run Megatune.
Select a project e.g. car1
If it comes up with messages about signatures not matching STOP! - re-read the intructions on this page and make sure you did everything and got the right versions. You must NOT continue until the signatures match ok or you will have problems.
Codebase specific instructions
I won't be the last person to have this problem either.. Look at all the people that had trouble updating their EM Blue.
When your software and Firmware don't match, the car runs, but the settings don't stay--MS thinks my engine is 350CID
Here's where I'm having trouble:
Now, you need to copy the msns-extra.ini that was in the Extra zip into
C:\Program Files\Megasquirt\Megatune2.25bXXX\MtCfg
The easiest way to do this is to run the copyini.bat provided in the Extra zip.
Go back to where you extracted it, e.g. c:\efi\024s9 and double-click on copyini.bat - this will update Megatune with the right ini file (this tells it what menus to display etc.)
This only works for the specified Megatune version If you installed a different version you will have to copy the file by hand.
Now run Megatune.
Select a project e.g. car1
If it comes up with messages about signatures not matching STOP! - re-read the intructions on this page and make sure you did everything and got the right versions. You must NOT continue until the signatures match ok or you will have problems.
Codebase specific instructions
Last edited by Jefe; 03-28-2006 at 08:20 PM.
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03-28-2006, 11:32 PM
#23
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Down Under
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What versions of MegaTune and MSnSe are you trying to use?
If you go straight for MSnSE 029 and MT2.25 you will be able to do the copying and flashing without any problems. I had some problems with the older versions of both programs but that was fixed when I went to MSnSE 029h and MT 2.25.
You will also need to edit the settings file to allow it to see MSnSE. If you haven't done this you will have a multitude of problems as well.
Steve
If you go straight for MSnSE 029 and MT2.25 you will be able to do the copying and flashing without any problems. I had some problems with the older versions of both programs but that was fixed when I went to MSnSE 029h and MT 2.25.
You will also need to edit the settings file to allow it to see MSnSE. If you haven't done this you will have a multitude of problems as well.
Steve
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03-29-2006, 02:19 PM
#24
I'm using version MT 2.25 and MSnSE 029K. I was able to flash the MS, but the MT is now missing all the folders including the code variant files??? so I can't set/unset settings...
I'll have to try uninstalling and reinstalling MT... X999
The car did run using the basic MT, but the settings wouldn't save to the CPU. and w/o spark control I can't be in this catch 22 for too long...
I can see my future sig:
96 Miata, 12 psi, T25, JRPC for fuel, Bipes for Timing, Mesaquirt for O2 clamp and cool E gauges... hahahahaha
Oh and a WBO2 to see that I'm lean but can't do anything about it....haha
I'll have to try uninstalling and reinstalling MT... X999
The car did run using the basic MT, but the settings wouldn't save to the CPU. and w/o spark control I can't be in this catch 22 for too long...
I can see my future sig:
96 Miata, 12 psi, T25, JRPC for fuel, Bipes for Timing, Mesaquirt for O2 clamp and cool E gauges... hahahahaha
Oh and a WBO2 to see that I'm lean but can't do anything about it....haha
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03-29-2006, 03:17 PM
#25
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Down Under
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Try removing MT from your laptop with the add/remove programs thingy in the control panel. Then go into 'my computer', then program files and then delete the Megasquirt folder. (Save your msq someplace else first though)
Reinstall MT 2.25
Then open MSnSE029k from wherever you unzipped it to, click on the edit-settings file and change the default from whatever it is to MSnSE. While you are there change the settings to your O2 sensor further down the list and then go to file and then save.
Then run the copyini file to transfer the MSnSE file into MT and you should be able to open MT with MSnSE 029k on your laptop.
You will need to connect the laptop to the MS and do the jumper bit to run the download-firmware and after that is finished you should be good to go.
Hope that this helps
Steve
Reinstall MT 2.25
Then open MSnSE029k from wherever you unzipped it to, click on the edit-settings file and change the default from whatever it is to MSnSE. While you are there change the settings to your O2 sensor further down the list and then go to file and then save.
Then run the copyini file to transfer the MSnSE file into MT and you should be able to open MT with MSnSE 029k on your laptop.
You will need to connect the laptop to the MS and do the jumper bit to run the download-firmware and after that is finished you should be good to go.
Hope that this helps
Steve
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03-29-2006, 07:49 PM
#26
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 248
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Originally Posted by Aussie Driver
Try removing MT from your laptop with the add/remove programs thingy in the control panel. Then go into 'my computer', then program files and then delete the Megasquirt folder. (Save your msq someplace else first though)
Reinstall MT 2.25
Then open MSnSE029k from wherever you unzipped it to, click on the edit-settings file and change the default from whatever it is to MSnSE. While you are there change the settings to your O2 sensor further down the list and then go to file and then save.
Then run the copyini file to transfer the MSnSE file into MT and you should be able to open MT with MSnSE 029k on your laptop.
You will need to connect the laptop to the MS and do the jumper bit to run the download-firmware and after that is finished you should be good to go.
Hope that this helps
Steve
Reinstall MT 2.25
Then open MSnSE029k from wherever you unzipped it to, click on the edit-settings file and change the default from whatever it is to MSnSE. While you are there change the settings to your O2 sensor further down the list and then go to file and then save.
Then run the copyini file to transfer the MSnSE file into MT and you should be able to open MT with MSnSE 029k on your laptop.
You will need to connect the laptop to the MS and do the jumper bit to run the download-firmware and after that is finished you should be good to go.
Hope that this helps
Steve
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03-29-2006, 08:55 PM
#27
MSEFI has tons of writeups, but it's usually written by someone w/ 700 posts and its looks greek...
I have found not understanding their language has been the biggest barrier in asking questions or being able to communicate what is wrong....
Having dyslexi and slooow doesn't help either...
Luckily we have folks such as Al, Aussie, Miatamath, that are willing to contribute to this forum--Thanks guys!
I have found not understanding their language has been the biggest barrier in asking questions or being able to communicate what is wrong....
Having dyslexi and slooow doesn't help either...
Luckily we have folks such as Al, Aussie, Miatamath, that are willing to contribute to this forum--Thanks guys!
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03-29-2006, 09:07 PM
#28
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posts: 47
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When you load MS'n'Extra for the first time.. you have to use the boot jumper.
But afterward you don't need to and it make the whole firmware update so much easier.. (Don't have to take the case apart everytime.)
Where are you stuck at now?
But afterward you don't need to and it make the whole firmware update so much easier.. (Don't have to take the case apart everytime.)
Where are you stuck at now?
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03-29-2006, 11:14 PM
#30
Originally Posted by MiataMath
Hello Jefe,
Since you have an 96.. I'm pretty sure you could use my doc.
Here it is.
Take note that the actual V3 external wiring diagram is only for a guide and the pinout are not representative to miata Mod.
Since you have an 96.. I'm pretty sure you could use my doc.
Here it is.
Take note that the actual V3 external wiring diagram is only for a guide and the pinout are not representative to miata Mod.
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04-01-2006, 10:27 AM
#32
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Quebec, Canada
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BTW.
Are you taking control of spark yet?
I started with fuel only and only connected one of the 2 CAS signal.
It did not want to start with the 2 signal plug in.. would crank, sputter, bearly start then stall. Since I was not taking control of the spark.. I guess the stock ECU was getting confused and not sparking up properly.
I'm not sure why your injector port type is light grey... have you copied the constant page of Aussie screenshot?
Does it hold an idle before stalling out?? On mine.. I had to really crank up the required fuel to get it started because my Idle VE were not high enough..
Are you taking control of spark yet?
I started with fuel only and only connected one of the 2 CAS signal.
It did not want to start with the 2 signal plug in.. would crank, sputter, bearly start then stall. Since I was not taking control of the spark.. I guess the stock ECU was getting confused and not sparking up properly.
I'm not sure why your injector port type is light grey... have you copied the constant page of Aussie screenshot?
Does it hold an idle before stalling out?? On mine.. I had to really crank up the required fuel to get it started because my Idle VE were not high enough..
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04-01-2006, 12:16 PM
#33
Are you taking control of spark yet?
NO, fuel 1st,
I started with fuel only and only connected one of the 2 CAS signal.
Yup, IIRC AL suggested that and that's what I did
It did not want to start with the 2 signal plug in.. would crank, sputter, bearly start then stall. Since I was not taking control of the spark.. I guess the stock ECU was getting confused and not sparking up properly.
I'm not sure why your injector port type is light grey... have you copied the constant page of Aussie screenshot?
It's exact, when it was just the basic version I could change value to 4, very odd...
Does it hold an idle before stalling out??
no, I wish it di I could play w/ it after that
On mine.. I had to really crank up the required fuel to get it started because my Idle VE were not high enough..
I went as high as 16 on the VE...NFG...
So the rest of my settings are good then?
WHEN i REVIEWED MY SETTINGS, THERES LIKE 47 SCREENS W/ 48 VARIABLES A PIECE..Opps caps stuck....
Good thing I have a case of Molson and I'm home alone....
Wish it were Molson Dry though, love that stuff...
NO, fuel 1st,
I started with fuel only and only connected one of the 2 CAS signal.
Yup, IIRC AL suggested that and that's what I did
It did not want to start with the 2 signal plug in.. would crank, sputter, bearly start then stall. Since I was not taking control of the spark.. I guess the stock ECU was getting confused and not sparking up properly.
I'm not sure why your injector port type is light grey... have you copied the constant page of Aussie screenshot?
It's exact, when it was just the basic version I could change value to 4, very odd...
Does it hold an idle before stalling out??
no, I wish it di I could play w/ it after that
On mine.. I had to really crank up the required fuel to get it started because my Idle VE were not high enough..
I went as high as 16 on the VE...NFG...
So the rest of my settings are good then?
WHEN i REVIEWED MY SETTINGS, THERES LIKE 47 SCREENS W/ 48 VARIABLES A PIECE..Opps caps stuck....
Good thing I have a case of Molson and I'm home alone....
Wish it were Molson Dry though, love that stuff...
Last edited by Jefe; 04-01-2006 at 12:27 PM.
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04-03-2006, 06:54 PM
#36
More notes to self:
when building the V 3 board MS I for fueling assemble entire thing
Caps are not used leave blank c12 & c30
D1 is a jumper wire in place of Diode
D2 is a jumper wire in place of Diode
Q16 not used for fuel (VB921)
R43 goes w/ Q16 not required for fuel
Under the board add the DSM pull up resistors and the Hall sensor jumpers(there are 3) outlined in the assembly instructions
There-- next time I build a board I can start w/ all the resistors, then diodes, caps..etc...
when building the V 3 board MS I for fueling assemble entire thing
Caps are not used leave blank c12 & c30
D1 is a jumper wire in place of Diode
D2 is a jumper wire in place of Diode
Q16 not used for fuel (VB921)
R43 goes w/ Q16 not required for fuel
Under the board add the DSM pull up resistors and the Hall sensor jumpers(there are 3) outlined in the assembly instructions
There-- next time I build a board I can start w/ all the resistors, then diodes, caps..etc...
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04-04-2006, 07:07 AM
#37
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 248
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Jeff you can piggy back off the oem computer for your CAS signals. You just
need to make sure the spark settings are the same as in these pictures even
if you aren't using spark. Once these are set you car should run correctly with
the OEM computer running spark.
Then just pull our the transistors Q6 & Q8 on version 3 PCB. Run you coils and it
should be running fuel and spark!
need to make sure the spark settings are the same as in these pictures even
if you aren't using spark. Once these are set you car should run correctly with
the OEM computer running spark.
Then just pull our the transistors Q6 & Q8 on version 3 PCB. Run you coils and it
should be running fuel and spark!
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04-04-2006, 04:21 PM
#38
I am tapping off the oem now. I would like to see if the car runs w/ Q6 & Q8 installed??? Did you try this?
I'll run wires off R27&R29, did you run them through the DB37?
The good news is my 450 injector's came today...
The bad news is my WBO2 is still in the P5 and I was asked to arrive into work early tomorrow( that's when I was going to install it into the Miata...)
The ugly news is we just got 6" of snow today and the car will stay inside a little longer..
I'll run wires off R27&R29, did you run them through the DB37?
The good news is my 450 injector's came today...
The bad news is my WBO2 is still in the P5 and I was asked to arrive into work early tomorrow( that's when I was going to install it into the Miata...)
The ugly news is we just got 6" of snow today and the car will stay inside a little longer..
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04-05-2006, 09:27 PM
#39
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: New Hampshire
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The 1.6L coils will not run properly with Q6 & Q8 installed I tried everyway I could think of and the spark was erratic with them installed. I wired the resistors
directly to the DB-37. You need to have the resistors between the CPU and the coils to protect the CPU from damage.
directly to the DB-37. You need to have the resistors between the CPU and the coils to protect the CPU from damage.
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