aaronwalker1974

Thanks Luke. I might just end up towing it down to a tuner that isn't too far away. Or I can drive it down their with the stock ECU and watch the AFR's really carefully.

After a few days of not being able to get it started, I was able to start it today. Again for just a few seconds. I am getting a few warning lights when it's cranking...

Getting Spark Cut in red and occasionally knock light.

aaronwalker1974

Also should I be using batch injection instead? I have not modified my wires / coils / etc. All still stock.

miguel.sagal92@gmail.com

Im having the same problem on my 99 miata with the base map. Just installed MS and car just starts and dies. let me Know if you figure something out.

aaronwalker1974

Are you running stock injectors?

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

No, batch injection is for 90-93( we usually make this sequential also with ms)
Check your crank sensor, it's wiring and the sensor's distance from the wheel. This is where your problems lie most likely.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

If it starts normally, idles for a couple of seconds and then dies, it is most likely a fueling issue(Req fuel, ASE, Idle VE Cells etc)
In Aaron's case, the car doesn't start most of the times.

aaronwalker1974

If the car starts easily with stock ecu, could there still be a problem with the crank sensor? I will check out the sensor, distance from wheel and wiring today.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

Strange as it may seem, I have witnessed such case, in a nb, like yours.

miguel.sagal92@gmail.com

Hey. I got the crank angle sensor check engine light two months ago. I cleaned it (it was full of crud) and gapped it and then reset the code. It hasnt come back since then and ive driven the car probably 1.5k

Having issues with my idle (first start after installing MS yesterday) It cranks and turns over but dies right after. Seems to run rich before dying. If i keep throttle on 2k or more it keeps running at around 14 afr. At first I thought timing but timing was at 8 degrees so not too far off. When car dies it goes to 11 AFR. What do you think?

SpartanSV

I think you should go back to your thread instead of mixing your unrelated issue in with the OP's. No one can keep anything straight when you're both posting about your problems in the same thread.

miguel.sagal92@gmail.com

Sorry. I'll fly away.

aaronwalker1974

I checked out the crankshaft sensor and the wiring was good. The gap was about the size of a credit card and and it was plugged in tightly. That being said, I think I will order a replacement as well as a new camshaft positioning sensor.

Before i installed the megasquirt, I was running a system that was similar to a vodoo box. About a month ago a strange thing happened where I would be going down the road anywhere between 2000 and 4500 RPM and I would lose power. Sometimes it was while I was on throttle. I think I might have a problem with one or both. Atleast I hope that is the problem. I think I have my tune to a place where I should at least be able to idle.

Also is it normal while starting / idling (for 5 secs) to see a 6% knock reading?

aaronwalker1974

Also thanks to everyone posting in this thread. Appreciate the feedback / recommendations.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

1mm gap is usually fine.
Do you have a real knock sensor installed?

aaronwalker1974

So todays update...

I was able to get the car to start and run for 3-4 seconds. I could repeat this over and over. Of course didn't think to get a log because I was playing with tables.

Then the battery went dead.

Charged it back up and didn't make any changes....and....It wouldn't start.

I was getting both Fuel Cut and Spark Cut to light up when cranking. As soon as I stopped cranking I would get a big fat sync error 32. I really hope all my problems are related to either the Camshaft or Crankshaft sensor. Should have both mid week.


I won't be working on the car tomorrow as I have an Autocross event with my nice behaving car.

aaronwalker1974

Changed out the Camshaft and Crankshaft sensors. I was able to get it start today and idle for about 3-4 seconds. Here is the composite log I got.

aaronwalker1974

The more and more i think about it, not sure what is happening but I think the tune is good. I can get it to idle at around 13 for the first two or three seconds before it dies. Could there me something else that is causing the engine to shutdown almost always at 3-4 seconds? I have played with all the idle settings. more fuel, less fuel. Nothing seems to make a difference.

Is there something that changes to the programming inside the megasquirt after 3 or 4 seconds? Also could living at 6000 ft have an effect? Maybe something that needs to be changed to the barometric settings?

aaronwalker1974

Can someone much smarter than me take a look at this composite log and let me know if there is something wrong? Still trying to chase down this problem. I can usually get it to start. Sometimes I need to give it a little throttle but it always dies at the same time. Maybe I have an ignition problem?
Just a few things I tried today but didn't make any difference. I unhooked the idle control valve. It would start but died at the same time. I changed the tune to open loop warmup. Same thing. Would die at the same time.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Also I am not getting sync errors anymore. Except when the car dies. I read that it is normal to get a sync error when the rpms go back down to 0.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

For every 4 blue lines you need I+II green ones between them. Every composite log you post seems different, are you sure you are using proper settings?