I'm very close to a final parts list, when I have it I'll get it all in a box and out to you ASAP, with full documentation, which I'll put in the thread as well. So far, it looks like three wires on the board itself, and two parts which have to be put in 'funny' - i.e. pin 1 in the hole for pin 3, etc. I might even do those few weird parts myself.

Abe,

Money sent.
When you writeup your instructions can you put in exceptions in for a 91/94 car?

Thanks.
-Raj

I think venturing into the world of non 99-00 cars is best saved (at this point) for someone who knows enough to do most of this board themselves. I can *try* to talk you through it, but it might not be the best choice. After two or three have been on the road for a month so we know everything is solid, sure.

In theory, it should be easy, just add some jumpers here and there. But without the car to test on, and the fact that your car already has wiring in an unknown state (it's had one motor swap, not done by you, correct?) it's going to be a bear for someone who doesn't know electronics to a moderate degree.

Let's all see if we can get Joe P. to put this board in his motor-swapped NA - then I'll have more confidence it's not because I wasn't there in person to check it out if/when something goes wrong.

Yep. it has a 94 motor in a 91 auto chassis. I am pretty sure that the wiring harness in my car is the original one (91 Automatic). I talked to the P.O. and he said he didn't change any wiring other than splicing in the bipipes and o2 clamp units.

As long as you're not afraid to get your hands "dirty" I think it'll work out well. If we figure out what's needed for a 91, then I could spin one of those out just as easy if there's any interest. But don't everyone go holding their breath. I don't mean to compete with DIY - but if it turns out there's a market for the extra features I've got I'd like to sell some at a point which covers my costs.

Ok, it's official
 

The board works. Everything I can think to check, even in my little wild fantasies (ok, except the AC button passthrough since I don't have AC) works 100%

I'm still a little wary because it's new, but let's get them out there and tested. Now I have to come up with some instructions and a parts list. :-) But I'm taking pics and boxing up my first one to send out.

If you need a tester, I will be happy to do it. I have a completely stock 99. Just send it over, tell me what needs to be done, and I will even consider buying it if it is amazingly functional. :)

awesome. Looking forward to the boards!

Amazingly functional it is. :-)

How much are you selling them for? Any pics when you get this first one done?

It's a few posts up. I should put it in the first post, or in a new one. I should take a new pic, though the one I have right now is kinda rough looking since it was a development board. Someone bought a built one, so when I get that put together I'll take some nice shots of it.

Ok. I sent out the first unit today! Very excited about it, baring any weird issues, we'll soon have more than just my testing to say this works. All in all, it goes together pretty well.

Going to be posting directions soon, and some msq files.

In the mean time. I did a list, I've only got enough parts for ONE complete board (my troubles with the alternator stuff burned through some parts and I don't want to ship stuff with parts that have been ill-treated on them).

I would like everyone to be VERY honest here - if you're waiting to get this up and running because there's a race season or something coming up (and I think there is one of you already) I want to get that kit out. The other folks might have to wait a week or so for my orders to come in.

On the bright side, the assembly directions should be top notch by then, so you're not really losing any time. I'll try to post a baseline .msq first, the directions for "how do I finish the MS to accept this board" second, some instructions on how to change that MSQ for different situations (stock coils, etc) third, and lastly board assembly instructions last.

Thanks everyone for helping, as a community, to get these done - and to show that by working together we can get something where everyone can make these MS's work in our cars *without* swapping perfectly fine OEM sensors, alternators, etc. I'll see what I can do about making a section or series of threads which deals with these boards.

Cool abe, I blasted you a PM.

Oh I've been meaning to ask, what are the dimensions of the board (including the height with the harness plug)? I was a fry's today looking at the different project boxes they have, I'm trying to come up with a couple of ideas on mounting the board but I have no real idea on the size of the board itself.

[QUOTE=AbeFM;438479]

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/610887582_vKtm9-O.png

QUOTE]


AbeFM, where is that wiring diagram from?

Factory manual. Of course it would be immoral to share, but it's on the web. I don't remember how I got it, but it's a HUGE help.

There IS an error or two (specifically the wires to the alternator are mislabeled).....

The board is 5.35" (not counting the db37 overhang) by 2.775" x 1.025 tall

The terminal block goes right to the edge. You could use these holes for mounting:

1) The two either side of the jumper block - I doubt anyone will use them

2) The two on the DB37

3) The 4 which thread into the OEM Mazda connector.

Update:
Turns out I was short two little parts. Sigh. Well, I put in an order for 10 boards worth of parts. Sheesh!

Anyway, that should come in on Monday, and unless something comes up I should start shipping kits tuesday/wednesday.
-Abe.

P.S. I'd like to collect settings, settings for spark outputs, injectors, maybe maps. I'm not sure where yet.

Another update since I've been getting questions.

1) Still waiting on parts to come in, when I do, I should be sending out a few kits the next day. UPS says they get here tomorrow.
2) Thirdgen, I've done the mods to your MS, I'm going to check if my chip will work for you, should let you know if you need to order one from DIY soon.
3) The first customer to get one has been going through all the normal hoops of getting their laptop to talk and getting matching .ini's, etc. We're both hoping he'll be running soon, he hasn't put it in the car yet.
4) Going to be gone the first week in September, so if anyone has any upcoming last minute desires, now's a good time to let me know. :-)

Too many updates, eh? Parts are in, going to kit tonight. Looking forward to this! In actual use, I'm happy with how all this came out.

Here's the simplified list of what you have to do to the MS:

JS9-S12 This is for running MS-II


D14 - IGN with pullup (Standard SparkOutput Mod)
D16 - IAC2B with pullup (Standard SparkOutput Mod)
D15 - IAC1B with pullup (You'll want to do up the middle LED the same way, with a pull up, and run that wire to IAC1B)

JS11 - SPR1
JS6 - SPR2
JS4 - SPR3
JS0 - SPR4
JS10 - IAC1A
JS2 - IAC2A

Bridge pins (I think it's 2 & 3) on the stock idle transistor, a blob of solder or a wire will work. It's the middle to the left pad if viewing the board from the top with the DB 37 facing you. You should get continuity to ground for the pin you're NOT using.

TACHSELECT - TSEL (You're skipping ALL of the MS's tach inputs, don't let TACHSELECT or TSEL go to anything but each other)

That's it. three resistors, 1 wire you have to do for MS-II anyway, one bridge, and 10 more wires (Again, two you'd have done for spark outputs anyway. Should all be very simple. Anyway, for people itching to get a headstart, that's how I have it set up to go.

Awesome abe. Were you able to get a base msq set up?

Yeah, but untested. Especially for people running stock coils, and stock injectors. But for Toyo COPs and low ohm 550's, I gotcha covered!

As it is, my first customer should be running on his stock car soon - when he does I'll probably start with his MSQ or try to make one from scratch. Really I'm waiting for someone to get a nice clean version with a nice clean release of the MS-II software.

Anyway, teaser:
http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/624121079_45qjF-L.jpg

So I've got ALMOST 10 kits ready to go. One is missing the OEM/Mazda connector (only had 9), and they are all missing the jumper blocks. Of course, if you totally trust everything and don't want to do debugging, you can solder right across each of them. But I'm going to come up with something for the kits I want to send out tomorrow/thursday, and, will order more of the right size ones (got 2mm spaced ones somehow) for the rest.

I'm putting 5 "easy pull" jumpers in each kit, for things people want to pull often. I've never had to pull my coilpacks while flashing - but I figure people would want them there, and perhaps on +12V and on the injectors, but you can put them on fuel pump or anything you'd like. The rest are normal jumpers, also not hard to pull, but I figure this will make it easier to get the one you want.

So tomorrow I'm going to build one new board, to make sure my kitting makes sense and doesn't have any oversights, as well as to take pictures to write instructions.

If anyone absolutely can't wait, I can send out their kits now, otherwise I'd suggest waiting (likely one more day) for me to do a test-build, and hopefully if there IS something wrong I'll find out and not send incomplete kits.

Also, at
AbeFM : photos : Kitting And Resistor Pics
I have pics of all the resistors, labeled. I know I HATE it when I know the color code, but just can't tell what color that stripe was supposed to be - so for every resistor there's a picture like this:

http://abefm.smugmug.com/photos/624121295_fsM4Z-L.jpg

To give you an idea of what you're looking at. Hope it helps.

Anyway, that's the update. Those who've ordered unassembled kits should see them sometime next week, those who want built ones, well, I should get the first one done tomorrow. :-)


Solely for reference: