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Old 05-25-2008, 04:18 PM   #1
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Default Another full standalone nb....

Still have some minor stuff to sort out (no tach, fan stays on all the time) but she fired right up. I cut a tooth off the crank wheel and im using the 4-1 wheel decoder for ignition. I need to connect the gm iat sensor to the stock harness still but both the stock clt and iat sensors read close to ambient temp without modding the ms at all.

Next up im giving the maf code a try....I have an old mustang 5.0 one laying around with some piping so it wont cost me anything and im kinda curious to see how well it'll run.
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:20 PM   #2
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Why bother with the Mustang MAF? (am I reading that right?)

Just use the MAP sensor and delete the MAF altogether!
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kotomile View Post
Why bother with the Mustang MAF? (am I reading that right?)

Just use the MAP sensor and delete the MAF altogether!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeflys1
Next up im giving the maf code a try....I have an old mustang 5.0 one laying around with some piping so it wont cost me anything and im kinda curious to see how well it'll run.



Im already running with just the map now....i just want to experiment a bit.
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Old 05-25-2008, 04:28 PM   #4
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okie silli-dokie yo!
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Old 05-25-2008, 05:47 PM   #5
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Since you went 4-1, I assume this is an MS-1? If so, congratulations! I've been waiting for someone to actually try this. I had some doubts about how MS1 would respond to the uneven tooth spacing, but it sounds like you've figured it out.

Oh, and unless it's purely to satisfy some sick curiosity, definitely forget the MAF.
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Old 05-25-2008, 11:08 PM   #6
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Guess I should look into this now, especially while my car is in pieces. Which tooth did you grind off and what input circuits are you using.
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Old 05-26-2008, 01:04 AM   #7
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Im running the ms1 v 3.57 board using the opto-isolator circuit. Its the same exact circuit that i used with the na cas. For the toothed wheel there are 2 teeth for TDC and 2 for ~60* BTDC for 1st/4th and 2nd/3rd. Cut off the one for TDC on 2nd/3rd and then set trigger a for tooth 1 and trigger b for tooth 3.

Here's my shitty drawing...
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Old 05-26-2008, 10:54 PM   #8
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So are you using this cirucit or something else:



Or are you using something more like what Joe attempted:



Care posting your MSQ as well when you get a chance.
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:48 PM   #9
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The top one....i was using the full setup when i was using the na cas but i just removed the cam signal part and left the crank part exactly the same.
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:52 PM   #10
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Awesome, now email me your MSQ *****.
You have PM.
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Old 05-26-2008, 11:55 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeflys1 View Post
For the toothed wheel there are 2 teeth for TDC and 2 for ~60* BTDC for 1st/4th and 2nd/3rd. Cut off the one for TDC on 2nd/3rd and then set trigger a for tooth 1 and trigger b for tooth 3.
There is so much awesomeness here.
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Old 05-27-2008, 12:09 AM   #12
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I'll do the mod this week if it works that well. Sell off my CAS.
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:21 PM   #13
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So how is it man?
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:43 PM   #14
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I only drove it the one time there to make sure it worked....right now im redoing some wiring and pulling the ac and power steering. Hopefully i should have it all back together by the weekend to do some more thorough testing.
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Old 05-28-2008, 11:03 PM   #15
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Megahellastylin' trailblazing awesomeness

At the very least this will help the future NB MS wannabes if the CAS is not needed anymore, even if the fans, a/c, IAC, and cruise control are still controlled by the stock ECU (parallel). Hell I'll ditch my CAS too.
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Old 06-07-2008, 03:59 PM   #16
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Man you suck at updates. What's the word?
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Old 06-07-2008, 10:58 PM   #17
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lol sorry i got back to it yesterday and...bad news. I tried starting it a few times and got either nothing or it would barely start and sounded way out of time. Im not sure whether its the wheel or the sensor itself is toast (you may remember i posted a while back about getting a CEL for it when i was running ms in parallel). Im thinking the sensor because it started and ran perfectly the first day i tried and nothing's been changed since.

Anyways those sensors are expensive as **** and i have alot of edis parts from my old escort project so i may just say screw it and do a 36-1 wheel....Or maybe i'll try the ford sensor using the 4-1 wheel. Im gonna work on it some more tomorrow so i'll post whatever i find.
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:07 PM   #18
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You can get a cheap replacement sensor man. I had to buy one to replace mine when it broke. Pretty sure it was $40 from partsgroup.com.
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Old 06-07-2008, 11:20 PM   #19
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Ok cool definitely cheaper there...i had just called autozone and advanced auto and both were like 90 bucks. So more wait time i guess while i order the new one
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