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Old 11-25-2007, 10:11 PM   #1
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In short...

I jumpered the fuel pump at the diagnostics port (gonna do it right soon).
Installed the IAT sensor in the cold-side and ran wires direct to the MAF harness.
Plugged in brn wire from LC1 into labeled wire on MS.
Mounted EBC solenoid, 1 wire to blue switched 12v on fender... 1 wire through switch on dash then to MS.

Megatune was reading all the sensors just fine... but it wouldn't start. It cranked fine and acted like it wanted to light, but just wouldn't do it.

Then I called Braineak and he asked the right question... WHAT INJECTORS AM I RUNNING? I had re-installed my original 1.6 blue-tops (after selling my 305's) while waiting for my 550's to arrive... and they arrived today conveniently. I swapped in the 550's and it fired up on the first turn of the key!

I went for a short drive with the wastegate arm off... just to make sure it was all working... and the roads are wet.

QUESTION #1: I have 1 question before I hook up the arm... I was under the impression that the EBC signal from the MS was just the ground as it was already connected to power from the other wire on the blue connector on the fender. So the circuit should only be complete when the MS is GROUNDING the solenoid to CLOSE it and build boost. When I throw the switch on the dash, the blue LED built into the switch is permanently on... indicating to me the solenoid is closed. The boost MAP I'm running is Brain's 13psi map he's currently using... and the first 2 colums in BOOST DUTY TARGETS are 100% and then they taper off in the higher RPMS... so I can assume that the blue led will start blinking like crazy as the solenoid starts working to dump boost in those target areas that are not 100%???

QUESTION #2: I just went out to adjust the timing. I had checked it set to 14* a few weeks ago but I understand that MS doesn't work that way. So I followed Brains instructions and nothing changes. I took it out of (-10) and placed it in 10* and played with the Trigger Angle and no change on the notch at the crank. Is there anything else... I went from 70 to 65 and then up to 75 of Trigger Angle and no change in the notch... is that enough of a difference to see something of should I put it down at 50. It definitely changed the idle speed as I played with the trigger angle.

That's it for now... I'll update everyone tomorrow when I put some boost through it.
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:38 PM   #2
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No harm in trying 50 for trigger angle. The only problem is that if you need to go below that to get closer to 10 you have to set it mechanically.

As for your switch, if it lights when grounded it should dim when the EBC start to open. Your idea also gives me a great way to make sure my EBC circuit works.
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Old 11-25-2007, 10:41 PM   #3
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Going from 70 to 71 trigger angle on my car changes my timing 1 degree on the crank. You should definitely be seeing a change with that much adjustment.
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:15 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
QUESTION #1: ...I was under the impression that the EBC signal from the MS was just the ground as it was already connected to power from the other wire on the blue connector on the fender. So the circuit should only be complete when the MS is GROUNDING the solenoid to CLOSE it and build boost. When I throw the switch on the dash, the blue LED built into the switch is permanently on... indicating to me the solenoid is closed. The boost MAP I'm running is Brain's 13psi map he's currently using... and the first 2 colums in BOOST DUTY TARGETS are 100% and then they taper off in the higher RPMS... so I can assume that the blue led will start blinking like crazy as the solenoid starts working to dump boost in those target areas that are not 100%???
sounds right. 100% says the the soleniod is fully closed. so your if your toggle switch is on the ON postion then it should light up, as you reach 3000RPM when the DC hits 30% or whatever it is, it may flicker as the MS ungrounds and ground the circuit rapidly. You may need to increase those numbers to make more boost; fwiw, i had about 50% in there before the exhaust to make 15psi.


Quote:
Originally Posted by samnavy View Post
QUESTION #2: I just went out to adjust the timing. I had checked it set to 14* a few weeks ago but I understand that MS doesn't work that way. So I followed Brains instructions and nothing changes. I took it out of (-10) and placed it in 10* and played with the Trigger Angle and no change on the notch at the crank. Is there anything else... I went from 70 to 65 and then up to 75 of Trigger Angle and no change in the notch... is that enough of a difference to see something of should I put it down at 50. It definitely changed the idle speed as I played with the trigger angle.
take off the trigger angle advance (if it's on) and try it again...it may be too far out to make adjustments.....or vice versa.


glad it's working!!!!
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Old 11-25-2007, 11:31 PM   #5
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stupid question but are you burning it to the ECU when you change the trigger angle?

and did you burn it to the ecu when you changed the -10 to 10?
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:52 AM   #6
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^Yup, burning the changes as I make them... and in this case, changing them back. Well... I guess I wasn't burning each individual pt. that I changed as I could hear it effect the engine and figured it was working. I'll try again tomorrow and burn each pt. as I change it.

Brain, I'll check that tomorrow. Is "trigger angle advance" the same as
"trigger angle addition" and should I try setting it to 0.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:54 AM   #7
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That is the setting he means and you should set it to zero.
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Old 11-26-2007, 01:07 AM   #8
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:24 AM   #9
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yep and also if you have trouble getting it right you can reset the cas to match it better then verify it with the trigger angle and set what ever you would like it to be on the map and verify it then. It is about time you got off your *** and put the miata back on the raod making good power
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Old 11-26-2007, 06:53 AM   #10
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That video is a little misleading because the "trigger angle addition" box is set to +22.5
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Old 11-26-2007, 09:56 AM   #11
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all the trigger addition does is add another 22.5°. Depending on the position of you CAS you may need it, or you may not.

but most people here are seeing 65-75° trigger angle with no addition.
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:31 AM   #12
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No time to "time" this morning... but drove it anyways.

Wastegate only gets me 8psi via the boost gauge. It runs real good at anything over about 80% throttle... runs smooth and clean at WOT. I am having a little stumble/stutter/unsmoothness in the 50-80% throttle area when it transitions into boost up to about 5psi. I didn't bring the laptop with me today but will go for a nice long drive tonight w/the autotune and see if I can spot the stumbling. I'm really interested to see my AF's with Brain's tune... I've essentially done nothing to it at all except the changing the dwell settings back to 1.6 coils.

W/O the MAF in place, my BOV is back in "really ******* obvious" mode. It's already plumbed back into the intake, and I think that's keeping it fairly muted... but I hate advertising.

Scott, is the timing table in the tune you gave me the defaults or are they your own?

Without searching... has anybody made any real good gains by doing some serious work with the spark tables or are the Autotune defaults for the timing as good as they can be... I'm looking for the 90% solution and I think the defaults are probably just fine.
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Old 11-26-2007, 11:50 AM   #13
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The spark map is the one I'm using. It's a derivative of DIY's. The non-boosted rows have a bit of advance and the boost rows are mildly-aggressive.

you can make good power tuning the spark map, but it's something that should be done on a loaded dyno.

the dyno day you made it to in May I started with a very-conservative timing map. with advancing the spark alone (notice the fuel curve) I starting making a lot of power.





your stumble could easily just be the fuel map needing tweaking, or it can be the accel enrichments we talked about. You need to start driving around with your laptop connected, take note of the spots where you feel hesitate or unsmoothness and look at your AFR gauge, if it's not where it should be you need to modify that fuel cell. Driving around with autotune or using MLVers analyzer feature should help start tweeking your map to your car.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:54 PM   #14
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yep get a good AF table to work off of then fine tune from there autotune is your freind.
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Old 11-26-2007, 12:58 PM   #15
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sam did i ever email you the .inc files you need?
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Old 11-26-2007, 02:22 PM   #16
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^Copy I need to do some "autotuning"... THIS AFTERNOON BABY!!!... on my way home stopping by the NEX for a small DC/AC converter.

Brain, the .inc files you mention in the DIYMS word document were already in one of the folders I downloaded off the DIY-A website. Is there something you've done inside those files that I need?
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