Any pointers for making my enrichment and overrun settings not suck
#1
Any pointers for making my enrichment and overrun settings not suck
First off I am pretty noob at Mega Skeet tuning and have been trying to learn slowly how to get my MKturbo NB running at it's full potential. I've gone back and fourth between Brain's and DIY's base tune and landed somewhere in between the two. Can you guys have a look at my enrichment AP scales/table and overrun settings and suggest areas that need improvement. (It needs a lot) I know the whole VE table is now rich since I messed with the AP settings, but just trying to get the tip-in and overrun stuff dialed, then hopefully I can move on to all the AE setting and play with EAE, wall wetting, etc. Thanks much for any input.
P.S. Any Miata Megasquirt tuners in Atlanta, GA y'all can recommend? Or even remote tuning services offered by one of you guys?
P.S. Any Miata Megasquirt tuners in Atlanta, GA y'all can recommend? Or even remote tuning services offered by one of you guys?
#4
Retired Mech Design Engr
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This should still be relevant
You will get swings in AFR when quickly lifting throttle and going into over-run. I have tried to work on that but it is hit or miss. I think the reason is that the actual, exact total wall wetted volume is so sensitive to little changes in things like MAT and manifold wall temperature, that sometimes the puddle will be exhausted, and other times not, in seemingly identical conditions. Drive-ability will not suffer.
You will get swings in AFR when quickly lifting throttle and going into over-run. I have tried to work on that but it is hit or miss. I think the reason is that the actual, exact total wall wetted volume is so sensitive to little changes in things like MAT and manifold wall temperature, that sometimes the puddle will be exhausted, and other times not, in seemingly identical conditions. Drive-ability will not suffer.
#6
Cpt. Slow
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Tips: set any values below 100% on your air density table to 100%. Remember AE isa percentage of your fuel table, so bring the RPMs up really slowly with idle valve test mode, and tweak your fuel table until AFRs look good. Over run cut is another fuel setting you want to disable until the fuel table is dialed, so just shut it off for now. It's probably causing a lot of bucking.
And who's base map has the fuel trim enabled? I wouldn't mind seeing the data that came up with those numbers.
And who's base map has the fuel trim enabled? I wouldn't mind seeing the data that came up with those numbers.
#7
Tips: set any values below 100% on your air density table to 100%. Remember AE isa percentage of your fuel table, so bring the RPMs up really slowly with idle valve test mode, and tweak your fuel table until AFRs look good. Over run cut is another fuel setting you want to disable until the fuel table is dialed, so just shut it off for now. It's probably causing a lot of bucking.
And who's base map has the fuel trim enabled? I wouldn't mind seeing the data that came up with those numbers.
And who's base map has the fuel trim enabled? I wouldn't mind seeing the data that came up with those numbers.
Not too much bucking going on, only occasionally when the load is ever so light enough, it will. I turned the fuel cut trim on myself in hopes of getting the hellacious decel backfire to go away that I am getting pretty consistently. It seemed to help a small amount, but is still definitely a problem.
#8
This should still be relevant
You will get swings in AFR when quickly lifting throttle and going into over-run. I have tried to work on that but it is hit or miss. I think the reason is that the actual, exact total wall wetted volume is so sensitive to little changes in things like MAT and manifold wall temperature, that sometimes the puddle will be exhausted, and other times not, in seemingly identical conditions. Drive-ability will not suffer.
You will get swings in AFR when quickly lifting throttle and going into over-run. I have tried to work on that but it is hit or miss. I think the reason is that the actual, exact total wall wetted volume is so sensitive to little changes in things like MAT and manifold wall temperature, that sometimes the puddle will be exhausted, and other times not, in seemingly identical conditions. Drive-ability will not suffer.
Its funny though and may be someone can comment, but I just watched a Megasquirt training video with "expert", Matt Happel and he doesn't even screw with EAE, wall wetting, etc.. He just gets the VE table highly refined and adjusts the AP enrichments and calls it a day. How much better did your car run after getting these settings dialed? Night and day difference? I'm certainly not questioning anyone's abilities here, I'm just more curious than anything.
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