sixshooter

iTrader: (12)

Open the plug gap to .028 and see if that helps. It is possible to have the gap too small, also.

powellke

I increased to gap to .028 and there was no improvement.

So, help me understand something. Is the popping I hear likely unburnt fuel igniting in the exhaust? If so, should I advance or retard the timing in those areas in the map? I have tried minor adjusts to the timing but didn't want to go too far and risk damaging something.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Not sure how you arrived at your VE table, but a 20% fueling change from 120 to 140 kPa @ 4800RPM seems a bit radical (from post # 17 above):




Why are you running such an old firmware revision?

powellke

The VE table is a result of Tune Analyze Live. Below 100% fuel load, the car runs quite nicely. Above, with the throttle < 70%, it runs pretty good. More throttle and the popping happens and the AFR goes very rich and then lean so Tune Analyze Live tries to add more fuel. I'm just not sure if I should not autotune above 100% and just manually set it up or if something else (like the ignition table) should be tweaked so autotune will do its thing.

I'm pretty new at this and didn't realize it was old and that there was another I could put on. I'll look into it. Thanks.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

Update firmware version, as mentioned!
With a quick glance you are using enhanced accel enrichment, turn that off, lower your tpsdot adders in normal accel enrichment, then use VE analyse live properly(search).

ByteVenom

Do you get any sync errors? How's the health of your cam angle sensor (CAS) and crank position sensor (CPS)?
Check your CPS gap.
Does playing with timing at those RPMs fix things? I had a very similar issue. Playing with timing helped...however the real issue was because of two things: my CPS gap was wonky, and my timing offset was off. Essentially the car was getting excessively advanced and combustion didn't occur correctly.

Also did you ever use a timing gun to check your timing offset? This is EXTREMELY important, I followed the stock advice that my offset was at 10? it turned out to be different in actuality. I also relocated my CPS.

powellke

I went to update my firmware and, when it asked which one I had, I wasn't 100% sure. I only knew what the previous owner told me but I wanted to double-check. The ECU housing doesn't have any label or identification of any kind so I removed the housing. Here's what I see:



According to this site, Megasquirt Identification ? what Megasquirt do I have? - Megasquirt EFI, it must be Microsquirt. Is that right?

TheBlack7

You have a DIYPNP which uses the microsquirt board. Firmware you want is the 'MS2/Extra 3.4.2 release Firmware' which can be found here: Megasquirt Downloads Firmware and Software - Megasquirt EFI

powellke

Ok. That's the one I downloaded and ran but wasn't sure when it asked one of the questions. I don't have it in front of me but I recall the options were something like:

1. Megasquirt 2
2. MSPNP2
3. Microsquirt
4. ???

So, "MS2" makes me think I should select "Megasquirt 2", "DIYPNP" makes me think I should select "MSPNP2", and the existence of the microsquirt board makes me think I should select "Microsquirt"...

TheBlack7

There should be an option for 'Microsquirt Module'. That's the one. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/...ding-firmware/

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

Microsquirt Module as suggested.

powellke

Thanks for the clarification about the Microsquirt module. I plan to update it tonight. In the meantime, I did a few things.

1) Checked my crank position sensor. It was covered in gunk and was about 2 credit card thicknesses away from the nibs on the gear. I cleaned it and closed the gap to 1 credit card thickness. It seemed to make a minor improvement but nothing quantitative.
2) I swapped out my TPS with one from my other 97. Recalibrated it and it might be a little more steady than the old one.
3) Checked my base timing. Holy crap! It was not right at all. It was at ZERO when TunerStudio wanted it at 10. Guess that means all of my spark map was 10 degrees retarded from what TS thought it was.
4) Adjusted the base timing and made a quick test run. Significant improvement. It still misfires but not in the same areas and not quite as harsh.
5) Took a data log and noticed that the misfires primarily happen when the spark advance drops to 12 or below starting around 150kpa and 4600 rpm.
6) Increased the spark advance a little in that region and further improved things.

I'm loving the increased power! I'm excited that the car is starting to feel like I thought it should.

I'll post another update after I update the firmware. Thanks for the info, suggestions, and patience.

Akina_Downhill

iTrader: (1)

Oh well, seems like this needed some on site troubleshooting.
Study the forum, you can make your car run great, just by doing that.

powellke

Updated the firmware and took the car for a drive. No misfires at all. It's never driven this good!
This forum is an invaluable resource. Thanks again.

DNMakinson

iTrader: (3)

Uh, who is Kricket, and who is powelke?

powellke

Kricket is my son. He made the initial post while we were out tuning one night. He introduced me to the joy of Miatas.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

that pot resistor you have in your unit, next to r20, could be part of your problem...

ByteVenom

As I said, your ignition was probably way way off. I had the same exact issue with my DIYPNP and my RusEFI. I figured my car was just toast when both ECUs made the car run like crap. Good to hear that you got your timing offset right and the cars running great!

We have basically the same setup, I LOVE the spool on the GT2554 (my SR20 Turbo is basically a JB GT2554R). Make a build thread and show off some pics!

powellke

I really should do a build thread. Even though the car was built by someone else, I have done my share of tweaks since I got it in December. Here's a recent pic.