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Old 08-06-2008, 11:46 AM   #1
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Default Basic EBC Questions

These might be total questions, but I searched for a long time and didn't find answers, so they can't be that bad.

1. How does it work, mechanically? I understand how the MBCs work, is this the same or does the GM part actually move the wastegate and skip the pneumatic portion?

2. Why would anybody with MS use a MBC? by the time you get it shipped, the MBC is close to $30 (for a cheap one), and it looks like I can do EBC for under $50. The improved spool time and controlability is totally worth $20. (come on, that's only 3 dinners at McDonalds, or 2 trips to the Ice Cream stand for 2 people)

3. How complicated is it to set up? Gotta solder a few things on the PCB, run a couple wires, that part is pretty straightforward. I see a lot of questions regarding the tuning of it. I imagine there is a step-by-step instruction for it somewhere, yes?

I guess that's about all. School me.
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Old 08-06-2008, 12:03 PM   #2
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1. the solenoid bleeds air, so only a partial amount see the wastegate can.

2. they are silly.

3. easy. instructions, yes, on my MS writeup FAQ. I put the diode on the MS itself to s12.
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Old 08-06-2008, 02:45 PM   #3
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I see here that there is a problem with overboost on cold (60F??) days when using the open loop, but that the closed loop boost control is not as reliable. Since this car is my DD, all year, in Maine, it will see temps from 90F all the way down to below 0F. Is EBC in MS up to this task, or should I perhaps consider sticking with MBC? Or is there some third option I didn't see in that thread that would work well for me?
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Old 08-06-2008, 02:54 PM   #4
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If it overboosts when cold just reconfig the table. In the end its still worth it. Unless they make closed loop control more reliable.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:08 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skidude108 View Post
I see here that there is a problem with overboost on cold (60F??) days when using the open loop, but that the closed loop boost control is not as reliable. Since this car is my DD, all year, in Maine, it will see temps from 90F all the way down to below 0F. Is EBC in MS up to this task, or should I perhaps consider sticking with MBC? Or is there some third option I didn't see in that thread that would work well for me?
I did not see much difference between 75 deg F and 100 deg F but that may not be enough of a temperature swing to make a difference.

At any rate, if it is a problem, I see two solutions here:

One, retune the table which would only take a minute or two, or just load another MSQ that is the same on everything except for the boost duty cycle table.

Two, put a switch on the wire to the EBC (between the MS and the solenoid). That way if you overboost, you can switch off the solenoid and run off of the wastegate until you have a chance to retune it. If the solenoid is off, it acts just like you have the boost line connected directly to the wastegate actuator. If you are using overboost protection (you should be) then you just switch off the EBC when the temperature drops and you start banging the boost limiter. It will not spool as fast, nor boost as high, but at least you can still drive it boosted until you can change the boost table.

Last edited by ZX-Tex; 08-06-2008 at 03:20 PM.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:26 PM   #6
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Oh yeah question #3... For tuning follow Brain's instructions here. It worked well for me on my first try. It took a little trial and error but my DC table works well only after 5-6 iterations. The last tweak runs were just fine tuning. BE SURE TO USE OVERBOOST PROTECTION!

Tuning procedure:

fill the target table completely to 100% DC.

turn your overboost 1-2 psi above your target goal.

go log a 4th gear pull.

note the rpm you reach your target.

subtract about 200rpm from that number and make that your second column at 100%.

first column should be 100-500rpm at 100%.

third column will be the rpm you hit your target.


now from the third column on, drop the DC% to 10%. log another 4th gear pull.

keep increase the numbers 10% or so until you reach your target and maintain it.

if you notice a drop in boost, pinpoint the rpm and add a few % in that column.

after a few quick pulls, you should be golden.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:29 PM   #7
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4th gear pulls? With 10psi? That will have you going 110 before you're done tuning your boost... Did I read that right, or do you not actually make it to redline?
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:38 PM   #8
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man up!


you can tune the boost from spool to redline in 3rd. but if you tune the spool in 2nd or 3rd, if you are ever in 4th or 5th you can easily hit overboost protection, as you build boost faster in those gears.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:42 PM   #9
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Mine was done in 4th. Make sure you have a straight road with lot of space in front of you. But, of course, MINE was done "on a closed course with a professional driver" blah blah
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:44 PM   #10
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Man Up, huh? I have pretty much decided to do EBC, even though I'll have to do something creative in the winter. As for tuning the boost, I know just the place for fourth gear pulls. Just surprised me that it's suggested so nonchalantly.
Keep in mind I have 60ish posts here, and more than 1000 on m.net. I'm guess I'm just used to the "oh-so-proper" atmosphere over there. The more time I spend here, the more I like it.
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Old 08-06-2008, 03:47 PM   #11
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Political correctness is for ****... Oh wait, we are all Miata driving **** here aren't we?
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Old 08-06-2008, 04:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZX-Tex View Post
Political correctness is for f#*s... Oh wait, we are all Miata driving [email protected]#s here aren't we?

Please dont say that word. There could be kids looking at this and the proper word is homosexual.
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Old 08-06-2008, 04:56 PM   #13
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the proper word is: fatherlessemfeminantfairyboys
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