When I hook up my MS to my laptop to calibrate the TPS, I get funny values,
like 50 closed throttle ADC and 54 or less WOT ADC
tried it a few times and sometimes WOT ADC is lower than closed throttle ADC
I didn't touch the stock wiring and I trust the wiring capabilities of Scott, so tell me where do I screw up?

 

Unnaturally Aspirated, that's awesome.

Weird, I guess your following the procedure correctly? Dunno unless your sensor died on you or it's not wired up properly.

 

Which tps sensor are you using? Have you tried moving the tps manually by loosing the two screws and adjusting it?

 

I'm using the stock '94 one. I thought it had a variable TPS but the readings make it seem like it's an closed/WOT switch like to '90-'93 ones?
I'll get out the DMM after work if the weather is reasonable.

 

The '94 TPS does have one set of open/closed points, Between the Red wire (Idle) and the Blk/Blue wire (GND).

To verify your wiring at the ECU, you should have:
1- Red / Black wire (2M) connected to the TPS input (22)
2- Light Green / White wire (2K) connected to VREF (26) where you will find +5V, and
3- Black / Blue wire (2D) connected to GND.

That last one in particular may be an issue for you if this is a standalone install. On all of the 1.8 cars, the O2 sensor, the MAF sensor, the CLT sensor the EGR sensor and the TPS sensor all go to ground through the stock ECU. If you pull the ECU without then joining the appropriate wire to the MS's GND, a bunch of things stop working.

 

Oscar, its highly possible, (read almost positive), I forgot to hook up the TPS to your harness as I built about 20:1 for a 90-93 which don't have a variable TPS.

check if you have a solid thin blue wire and gray wire on the harness.

 

I'll go check now

 

so there's three blue wires on the standalone harness. one thin blue one that goes to the Knock input connector, a blue one with a white stripe 7 pins below that and a thicker blue wire that splits into two black wires in the bottom left corner
no grey/blue wires to see for the rest

 

k, then i didn't add it....arg. did i built you a stand alone or boomslang?

 

standalone

 

you'd have to add two wires into the connector and run them into the boomslang.

if you open the hood of the db37 connector....

you need to add one wire between the two blue/wht ones, pin 26 - to 2K (LG/W) on the boomslang. This is 3 over from the blue/white wire, next to the fat gray one.

you need to add another between pink and yellow, pin 22 - to 2M (R/B) on the boomslang. This is 2 over from the blue/white wire, next to the fat gray one.



then it shall work....

 

mm I see. I'll go ahead and try that

got around sending me the .msq file yet btw?

 

i forgets....you can download it off the MS itself at this point

 

i forget too, but now my harness is all apart to solder the wires
I'll try and do that tomorrow.
is it worth resoldering the wires so I don't have to swap the plugwires on the coils or just leave it and swap plugwires

 

might as well swap them around....easy enough.


pin 31 and 36, the highlighted one on the diagram above and the brown one near the end.

 

I just sacrificed an old computer PSU for a quite large amount of 18awg wire

on the yellow connector, there is a wire going from the TPS position (2nd pin from the one with the resistor on it) to pin 26 on the DB37 connector, though it's black one. Do I still have to add a wire from that pin to pin 2K on the yellow connector then?
(wiring is not my strongest point )

 

**** I hate soldering little pins

care to send me a fresh one with all the wires in the correct place?

 

its only four total solder joints.

 

I know, but I got more burns on my hands now than correctly soldered wires
I have not soldered in at least 5 years (highschool )

I added a blue wire between pin 22 and 2M and the one from 26 to 2K is almost finished.

I'll probably wrap this up tomorrow

I'll let you know

 

Is it really taking you 2 days to solder 2 wires?