Cold weather boost control
#1
Cold weather boost control
So I have the boost control tuned pretty over the last couple months, it has been working well down to the 50's (about mid 70's MAT). Last couple day we hit 30's in Wisconsin, and my car go straight to overboost (high 50's intake temp). I tried a few things today, increased boost control delta from 20 to 30kpa, increased the P term, increased the D term from 8 to 100, decreased the bias table duty for the spool up rpm to try to let the PID do the work. Just about everything short of a complete retune. Nothing seems to work. One thing I did find was while everybody are saying the DIYAUTOTUNE boost solenoid should be at 19.5Hz, at that frequency, it pretty much follow the bias table with minor adjustmentt. But if I change to 26 or 39Hz, it seems more active trying to control boost. None of the changes made it reduce duty cycle before it went overboost though. Sometimes I wonder if CL is actually working.
Part of the reason I go with standalone is getting tried of playing with the manual boost controller when temp changes. So I'm kinda bumped it doesn't work as well as I hope. Anybody has luck or tips to get close loop boost control work for temperature change? Re-tune the CL in cold weather and see what happens in 6 months when it gets warm?
Car is MSM, with intake, dp, exhaust, MS Labs MS3 Basic, DIYAUTOTUNE boost solenoid.
As a side note, is that knock? Or just noise? It only happens in boost and above 4k rpm. It's below the threshold Rev set in the ECU, and never heard anything.
Part of the reason I go with standalone is getting tried of playing with the manual boost controller when temp changes. So I'm kinda bumped it doesn't work as well as I hope. Anybody has luck or tips to get close loop boost control work for temperature change? Re-tune the CL in cold weather and see what happens in 6 months when it gets warm?
Car is MSM, with intake, dp, exhaust, MS Labs MS3 Basic, DIYAUTOTUNE boost solenoid.
As a side note, is that knock? Or just noise? It only happens in boost and above 4k rpm. It's below the threshold Rev set in the ECU, and never heard anything.
#3
SADFab Destructive Testing Engineer
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I had a similar experience. I have a thread on msextra where Ken and I discussed adding a temperature correction factor.
I would post over there, you will have better luck getting responses.
I would post over there, you will have better luck getting responses.
#4
Boost Czar
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if CL is working, then you shouldnt need one. that's kinda like the point...
I always ran that valve at 39Hz. the spec sheet shows: Coil Rated Voltage 120VAC (50/60Hz); 12, 24 VDC
I always ran that valve at 39Hz. the spec sheet shows: Coil Rated Voltage 120VAC (50/60Hz); 12, 24 VDC
Last edited by Braineack; 11-21-2016 at 08:11 AM.
#5
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The new bias control method needs it more than the old method. I posted datalogs and he agreed that one might be needed. I ran out of time and wasn't able to give him enough datalogs to try and implement one.
#7
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It might have just been my sensitive wastegate (and running it on the limit) but cold mornings equaled over boost. I will work with Ken again after I get my new setup running.